Duncan

ahh I agree....it looks like it is plumbed into the BOV's pressure source, not the FPR....but that is still after the throttle body and therefore incorrect I think. Might be time to give the keys and your wallet to a mechanic

I'm not sure what the specific concern is about ADR approved brakes lines when the calipers, pads and discs, or how they work as part of a system, are also not ADR approved?

I'll bet no-one has a story about how an issue was resolved in working through Fair Trading/CTTT. They have no ability to force the right outcome, there are too many places for the dodgy workshops to hide, and the shops know how to play the game. I was also ripped off over $15k by a workshop on a dodgy build and despite engineer's reports etc never got anything back. At best, you will get years of legal bills and arguments.

Either is fine in an r32 mate, I enjoy 2wd but 4wd is probably a better default option for safety.

haha great choice to put that motor in

OK, so the hose from the fuel pressure regulator is plumbed to the wastegate? Seems pretty dangerous to your engine's health. The FPR hose is a good place for a boost gauge but not a boost controller...... Basically the wastegate will open whenever there is more pressure than it's spring is rated for. I think the stagea/gtst spring is about 3psi. So as soon as you get 3psi in that hose the wastegate should open loosing all boost. What you need instead is a small nipple on the intercooler piping somewhere before the throttle...the closer to the wastegate the better as the length of the hoses leads to boost spikes. Take off an intake pipe near the wastegate and have a nipple welded on for a vacuum hose (I've also seen it done by tapping a threaded fitting onto the intake but that may not be reliable over the years). Then connect that pressure source to a bleed valve (eg http://www.turbosmart.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Product_bt.jpg) and then to the wastegate. That will let you choose anywhere from 3 to about 20psi reliably, with a standard turbo you should keep it to 10-12psi

Looks good Brendan, was that bought or did you make it up?

Hi mate, I am not sure how to confirm it is a 33 gtr hub...but that tie rod end looks damn small in the cone. Do you have the old one to compare?

1 and 2, I tow with my stag but it is a 300rs not a 260rs. Pretty much all the same bits underneath, so while I can't think of anyone using a 260rs there is no reason there would be an issue. 7, I understand there were not 260rs built from the sunroof model which is a shame....they are cool. 8, apart from the mirror rust there are no particular stagea issues. so just keep an eye on engine health, bushes that need replacing etc. Sunroof models do leak into the footwells sometimes sometimes due to blocked drains 9, they are pretty reasonable but you can't change the fact you are punting 1800kg around. I have whiteline swaybars front and rear, bilstein springs/shocks and 18x8 wheels for a little more grip. You should also allow for a brake upgrade, the stockers are rubbish - anything skyline will bolt on for a cheap upgrade. 10, it's all skyline mechanically, if you can change a timing belt you can do anything on them. Back in the olden days when I was young, it was cheaper to buy an auto and convert it to manual, but these days it seems 260rs are more readily available, I think they are a great buy considering the ease of obtaining go fast parts.

That is probably a tricky ask if you want to keep the shift logic that reduces torque on gear changes. FWIW, I'm running an r34 pfc, but mine is manual

excellent....we need a full report

yumm, tyres in plastic. what are they, v710A?

yep sure did, the first kits had an issue with the offset to the ball joint, both mine and the donut king gtr had the issue and both were replaced. That was 7 years ago, I have been happily thrashing them regularly since without issues. Back on the STI calipers....even if they were free they are not a cheap option. Getting them to bolt up will require an adapter ($$), probably new brake lines ($$) and find and appropriate dsic ($$$). Better to buy a set of 33 gtst/32 gtr brakes if you want to go that way, but to me the d2 kits are unbeatable considering they come with new everything

definately the frame. And while a nibbler is on my to buy list I am looking to make a bunch of 45o cuts easily so knife/hacksaw etc isn't going to do it. brad...by the look of it a cold saw is a bit OTT in functions and price for what I need. brenton, I've definatly got a grinder so if I do go that way I guess I need a template and a clamp to hold it in place, still seems a bit open to error though From looking around it seems a compound mitre saw is probably what I'll go with, does anyone have any tips or opinions on type or brand?

My immediate need is to do about 100x 45 o cuts in very thin ally to make flyscreens, but I figure I should get something that will cover the majority of car-faby sort of things as well. What do I need? Any particular blades as well to deal with thin ally, 1-3mm steel etc? Hacksaw just doesn't cut it! (Ha Ha, I kill me)

has fatz called yet? he is a regular dropping off stripped skylines at simmsmetal

I'd always run: oil pressure - so you can see when it's dead water temp - because things go wrong and can kill your motor oil temp - will help you understand if your sessions are too long, or if you need more cooling voltage - very helpful to spot niggling issues or to tell you if your alternator dies or the belt has been lost fuel pressure - because anything going wrong here makes it go bang. Also good for troubleshooting (eg dead pump, stuffed reg, wrong base pressure, running out of fuel at high revs, tank empty) Don't bother with AFR - you'll never get to check it when the action is happening. Only useful for tuning, and every dyno has one anyway boost - unless it is a peak gauge like on a lot of boost controller, you will never see what the boost is while you are driving - it all happens too fast. exhaust temp - useless in every way. unless you have 6 of them and you are on a dyno. Best thing by far is to run a dash and logger, seems expensive up front but yout get so much more for your money. Plus you do it once

wierd....but sorted now

I bought half a car from ben...good car, good price

Thanks for posting up, I've moved it to the Build subsection

They are absolutely fine. I ran stock brakes on my 33 gtst for about 3 years of track days. The trick is to run good tyres, plus I didn't have a lot of power. And a dot5 fluid like motul rbf600. On the other hand, the d2 kit is very cheap and performs very well....keeping in mind it comes with pads, rotors and braided lines, and the rotors are 2 piece so cheaper to replace when that does come up

lol I've just spent the last 3 years building a house with a 6 car garage It's just a question of leaving some work space. If I remember correctly, you have some brilliant workspace in a couple of different sheds, I'd kill for that

It's not too late to buy a C34 instead If the "antenna" sticks up from the front left corner of the bumper and can be seen from the driver's seat, it is just a parking aid so you can see where the front corner of the car is. No actual antenna function

see? is it gunmetal grey?

no spare space in the garage mate. I might park this in there because it is small, but with 2 dailys and whatever I am working that garage is as full as I want it.