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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. I see a picture of you driving through a red light?
  2. bitch
  3. godammit! since when does drunk posting let me down?
  4. pump will definately be mounted on the diff/subframe, it is in all the r32/33/34 series as well
  5. Sounds good, I'll chuck the Stagea on for a run
  6. exactly what I was thinking....I'm still hurting from the price of the genuine stagea stuff
  7. Great buying, this is the second winningest skyline in Australia as far as I know (behind Stu Inwood's R33), and one of only 6 I know that have won a National Championship. I've always had the highest respect for Geoff and the team for acheiving series wins in both production touring (the other chassis) and IPRA. Please keep it an use it well
  8. yep agreed....but mount it firmly and pad it anywhere it can rub.....I've never had one fail
  9. you sound really angry. quick clarification - do you need to change the boots or the shafts? boots can be replaced with plenty of generic options and I would be pretty sure 33 gtr genuine would also fit
  10. ahh a bit late to mention, but I've had trouble twice with pushlock fittings. It may be that they are perfectly reliable when fitted correctly, if so I have made mistakes 2/3 times I have used them...way too low a success rate for me. 1 ps cooler line on the race car (has been OK for years since when I added hose clamps and 1 failure on the turbo oil feed on the tow car, replaced it with braided with proper hose ends spend up big on real fittings IMHO, even if you need to get the damn things made to length sorry to hear about it's death, you are catching up with me. leave it in the corner to gather dust for 3 months until the itch returns
  11. good work.....do you have a pic of how the r34 console looks?
  12. thanks guys, I ended up deciding to give garnet a try....pretty much anything I am blasting would be painted next. picked up a bag from hare and forbes in north parramatta
  13. that's excellent....and I've finally seen someone better at cutting corners than an evo driver too looks like you were at the top of top gear for a while about 9min, how fast does it go? looks farking unstable to be going that quick, especially over that jump, it would take some balls. And I love how quick you get to run through reasonably closed forest. BTW gay horn ....you need to change it to a set of air horns that play a tune. No wonder the other cars were ignoring it
  14. haha it's been a while eh? looks like the pf guys are having fun again.
  15. Pull. A few ways you can tell....obviously easier once you have the box off the motor! There is a pivot point not a pivot ball attached to your bellhousing The fork attaches to that pivot point with a r pin (that was removed so you could take the box off the engine) And importantly (because you can see it before you disassemble the gearbox!) the clutch master cylinder points towards the engine. On a push clutch the master cylinder points towards the rear.
  16. haha might be a plan....i can just back my stag up to the frontcut a part for pete, a part for duncan a part for pete, a part for duncan etc etc
  17. I can help, I need a loom off the rs4 motor.....I'll give you a bell about it
  18. Great work Liam, congratulations
  19. lol yeah that wouldn't work so well...shouldn't drunk type in brake threads!
  20. OP said the brakes were smoking. fluid fade can never do that. It is either: * not bedded in properly, or oil or something on the discs or pads. To fix, remove and clean with brake fluid * pads/discs were overheated. get better ones. I think it was identified above that the pads are at the crappy end of the mu range?
  21. well that's good news, but still not safe. that is the pin that holds the spring that holds the brake pads in place. They should have had an R pin or split pin to stop them slipping out. To fix that, you need 4 small split pins. Jack the car up, take the wheels off and you will see at the other end of those pins they have a hole drilled through them. You can put the split pins through the hole in the back (bend back at least 1 leg when you have) and it will be fine. Or, ring the shop and tell them to come and fix it. They probably have the original R pins sitting on their floor somewhere
  22. first, your qualified tradesman has made a major, dangerous f**kup. You should call them and abuse them tomorrow. It is easy enough to bolt the calipers back up properly, you just need the right size spanner or socket (preferably on a 1/2" drive). Don't drive the car until it is fixed, you are likely to lose your brakes entirely. On second reading, I am not sure you mean the caliper mounting bolt - can you post a pic?
  23. I've never used the race pads, but the "sports" one have been fine for daily use, for rally use, and for track use.
  24. Yep I'm sure these sit in a mm or 2 slimmer than 32 gtr/33gtst brakes. I changed from 32 gtr to d2 and was able to ditch my spacers (was still damn close, but more space). Anf, pm sent. I'm surprised more people aren't jumping at this. These brakes have been extensively proven by myself and others over the years. I ran mine at Targa Tas and for a season's racing, and I know the Just Jap and Donut King 32s have been running them at rallies for years too. And I've been using these on my rb30 stagea, and I had them on my 350z as well.
  25. Good work getting this together Ash, they are excellent brakes and this is a great price. I have bought 3 sets over the years for different cars including racing with them at Targa Tas, they are great for the money They actually need less clearance to wheel spokes than 33gtst/32 gtr calipers, they are a little narrower. They are a larger diameter disc of course
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