Duncan

I don't, but you should see them come up time to time, for about 1/10th what your tuner charged you. Make sure the part numbers match, there were smoe pinout/wiring differences in some of the models.

Tomas there is no problem or difference for running the auto ECU in manual. The auto has an additional function to cut timing when the gearbox says there is a shift taking place - but since there is no gearbox to send the signal that will never happen. I ran an auto ECU in my manual for about 18 months until other mods meant I needed to go aftermarket. Also, auto ecus will be everywhere....but manuals will be much rarer just like the donor cars

I think it's likely the brass bush is less likely to fall off (initially), but much more likely to wear the ball on the end of the shifter over time. nissan chose nylon for a reason, and most cars don't have a problem. I have been running they original nylon bush in my race car for 7 years. I am sure it was a PITA to pull the whole box to find that noise....but I am pretty confident a shifter that's not worn (not a short shifter) + new bush + a little sympathy on gear changes (don't rush too much) would solve the issue

Hmmmm....it does happen, but not often - so I don't beleive it is a general design issue. There are 3 factors I can think of: * The nylon bush will wear as you shift (as it is designed to). Did you fit a brand new one (I assume so, they are about 3c to buy) * How you shift - speed and harshness. Also, if you have a "short shifter" that is bound to wear it faster too * Is your knob worn? It may be worth replacing the whole shifter, for all you know it may have been abused before you got it. The knob should sit very snugly in the bush.

bloody hell...thanks for finding that post Zeb. Important point....the issue was with 595RSR and R34 GTR rims, not FZ201.......so take back all my earlier comments in this thread! I've used FZ201 on 2 other sets of rims without any problems, and was very happy with them, especially for the price Adam it is definately the same Mick (NSW club member), he was super helpful when the issue happened.

well, thank Gordon Leven and the other local deals for that blatantly anti-competitive behaviour. do the right thing, and never buy from them in return

yes, only 1 size (255/18), and only 1 rim (r34 gtr). Chris ran the 888 on his mx5 and was very happy to. But plenty of people have tried on GTRs and been unimpressed.

We did have someone ask the same question a few years ago, for the same reason. Never saw a follow up though. I think the cheapest and easiest way to do it is to start with an auto gts4 (32 is the only option in Oz, but in NZ you could get your hands on a 33). Would only be a couple of thousand and has the same attessa system and suspension as the gtr. Then engine swap to put an rb26 in if you are dead keen for that. About $5k for a good motor plus 3-5 to fit it. Or just mod the gts4 to make 200kw (easy enough, and probably cheaper). The only trick would be the ECU, you probably need to retain the gts4 ECU to control the auto but that may have troubles running the RB26.....might need to allow for some sort of piggyback computer like an emanage

ahh this won't help either....but I've heard nothing good about 888 under heavy cars like GTRs. If you can't go different rims or a different size FZ201, I'd look at kumho v70a as the next best reasonably priced semi.

I have *not* fitted them. Tyre shop (very good one) managed to get one on a rim using over 120psi to seat it before the manager caught them using that much pressure lol. My theory is that it is a very aggressive tyre bead shape, combined with a very aggressive rim shape. I later fitted Federal 595SS to the same rims no problem, I've fitted FZ201 to 2 other sets of rims, and obviously billions of people have fitted tyres to R34 rims. But the combination just does not happen. BTW federal were great about the problem, sent a tech to the tyre shop to check it out, and swapped for another tyre at no cost.

Paul (mountainrunner on the forum) makes exactly this for a good price, Engine Monitor II Has a series of digital and analogue inputs, and outputs are lights and buzzer. You set the warning point for each input. Also has a shift light as a bonus. Really good system, and about 1/4 the cost of an ecu with dash.

not suicide, but not necessary in my opinion either. healthy gearboxes/diffs/xfer cases really aren't that fussy about fluids, especially in day to day use (obviously race use where it gets very hot is a totally different story) If you have noise it is either the component is not right, or you have very high standards (which may be the case )

sorry I don't get the problem....please send me details and I'll sort it

ahh one problem leads to another....spacer + guard rolling then?

oh those are good. I'm pretty certain some of them have actually come from my two.

damn straight..see my member title <----------------

Hi mate, a much easier answer would be adding a 5mm slip on spacer, unless your wheel nuts will be too short. I've taken 2mm off a caliper before for a similar problem and got away with it, but 3-4 would be really pushing your luck unless someone has done it before....afterall do you have a spare if you stuff this one? BTW....good luck!

Damn good swimmers, those dolphins

fine (and very common) for a street car, not fine for a race car

over here? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/13-wanted-to-buy/

Hey Brendan, good to hear you are alive...probably not too many people left around from the olden times.

good man...I'm off to buy tools.

nope Chris, they don't stock power bar any more, checked a couple of months back. Wouldn't mind getting hold of one if someone knows where to find them Zeb, they look good, I saw something similar from snapon. The socket can be turned by a ratchet spanner (or socket, or ratchet) which gives you lots of options for clearance in tight spaces

lol. how many cars are you driving this year Boz?

Can't for the life of me remember which colour the box was, but it had a few wires going in (more than I expected) and covered all the beeping functions including reverse which I was trying to kill. It also seemed to control the remote start for my car. there may be a few different boxes depending on series and options