Duncan

the world's funniest track incar is still Russ and the brakes....

that's Rod Thorpe from our prod cars category, and that's the second time he's posted up video of his amazing driving - and the second time he has hit the side of Shaw's car in turn 1.

yeah there were no issues, everything bolted over fine. Just lots to do. BTW, mine had a spun big end bearing, no knock at idle, only when revving. it looked like tinsel inside the sump. you would never believe where bearing material can get to..... I have also lost the turbos 100% of the time I have re-used them from a motor with a spun bearing within a few thousand klm. These turbos I cleaned out like crazy, as best I could without disassembling, and they have been OK for 500klm so far. Still far to early to call it a success though. Also, I changed the oil and filter after 50 and 500klm as well. You can't be too cautious when the turbs are worth 1500+ to rebuild

first post updated

the long motors are all the same, in fact I just put a 33 motor in my 32. You will have to watch out for diff ratio and CAS if you use a 34 motor, and some wiring differences if you use a 33 or 34 motor. In either case just swap across the gear from your 32 motor. Assuming it has a f**ked bearing, do not re-use anything from the old motor that had oil in it. Or if you feel brave, stuff like the turbo oil feed and return, and the turbo cores themselves may be useable with a really good clean (probably not). Never ever reuse the oil/water interchanger under the oil filter, you will never get the inside of the oil part clean.

They apparently have an annoying external beep so that the sight imparied can tell which car hit them Range is absolutely a non-issue. You go to the garage in the morning, unplug the charger, drive your 10-50klm to work in crap traffic, park it, drive 10-50klm back home in crap traffic, put it back in the garage and charge it over night. That is what 80% of people do with their petrol cars every day. The occasional longer or more complex trip just says you should have another car, eg a rb25/30 Stagea. Or, if that is not an option join Goget or similar or just hire a car if required. Thanks for the experience Dobz, I was wondering how that would be. I had enough trouble maintaining speed with the CVT cube - it is amazing how much we rely unconciously on sound to maintain speed.

haha silent skids will be funny. I'm not worried about the approval, more whether the car is any good or not. They have not made any available for a drive yet, and like the GTR will only be available from "special" nissan dealers I really can't see heaps of people buying these and then getting stuck without a charge? Everyone understands not to run out of petrol, I'm sure electric car drivers will remember to charge them first.

I'm going through that process at the moment. Still haven't driven the damn car yet, and I sure as hell won't buy it if it doesn't drive well.... While its a bit over the top, I don't have an issue with the idea that they are checking suitability.

well, I surely know who was leaking water, and that won't happen again

I rescued 2 parts of 2 runs from the corrupted video files: 1/ it is probably a good idea to make sure there is some coolant in the car before running: 2/ the quick run, but the bloody video is cut off about 2/3 through

hmmm saved some of both files with this. http://grauonline.de/cmsimple2_6/en/?Solutions:HD_Video_Repair_Utility Still pretty damn annoying. Interesting that some people are having no trouble with their units....I paid more and bought locally, so I might see if the seller can help resolve the issue.

lol sideways cam shows serious face. yeah my youtube was still uploading but is there now

FJ720, great run in the micra, I reckon you wrung pretty much everything it had out of it Luke, don’t worry too much about the hoses, just buy decent clamps. And the wider ones are not better.....narrower ones clamps harder. Excellent driving James, that was damn good car and throttle control…it has more than enough power for such a tight course. And the camber and toe changes you can see on the rear facing camera are terrifying, I can see why Nissan moved on from semi trailing rear arms. Ben….lol thanks for posting up that video….you can tell the “before I looked at the temp gauge” and “after I looked at the temp gauge”. I took a quick look just before the jumps, saw “H+++” and backed off Ran much cooler after I put some water in the radiator though Mick…those tyres were f**king excellent. Please don’t tell anyone about them. Only 1 video made it, the same horrible run Scott’s guys got, it was about 1.29 (tip, 3rd gear is not quicker through the last corner ) I welded my clutch onto the flywheel with my last launch, I guess you could argue that raising the rev limit to 8,500 just for the launch was a little unwise. Made it interesting to get on and off the trailer, and move around the yard – thanks to Ben, Zebra and Prue for helping load it up afterwards

really unimpressed with the Radcam I have - if you lose power without turning off the video, the resulting file is corrupted. I lost 2/3 of the runs on the weekend, including the quickest ones. Radcam fail, buy something else.

Thanks to all the organisers today, I know how much work goes it to running a day smoothly, so well done. woo hoo, I won quickest yellow and purple GTR with a wrecker motor running super dooper tyres! Who won the other classes?

What's with the early night bludger? I've just knocked off, wrecker motor in the car, seems to be running OK. Thanks to Mark and the boys at Hills Motorsport for putting on some late nights to help get it ready. See y'all on saturday

The dash? It just needs accessory 12v, earth and the AV in which makes it beautifully easy to install. If you pick a computer to go with it, that can get very tricky. THe epson EJ1 takes about 10 inputs from the computer.

well the good news is the dash only needs an AV input, it takes an old fashioned NTSC feed. So anything that puts that out would be fine, I used an epson ej-1. The HKS Camp 1 was not so great, but apparently 2 is much better. Or any other AV input like a car computer, rear view camera etc etc

Hi Mick, I got your entry and forwarded to Aggrodave tonight. James, me too, it's a good event, but I guess the club exec can't keep running events if they don't get the entrants. Anyone wondering about whether to try it or not....give it a go, you'll have a ball

Hi mate, To be frank, those tyres, and a mix of tyres is downright dangerous. Whoever sold you the car sold you a car that is not roadworthy. There is no way even an incompetant inspection would have missed that. You have bought one of the best performance cars ever made, and the 4 bits holding it on the ground are mismatched rubbish. So.....go and buy 4 new tyres. Look at brands like Federal or Falken or Kumho, you should be able to get a set for $1000-$1500. If buying 275/19s is a problem price wise, sell the wheels and go back to 18x8 or 18x9, the tyres will be 30-50% cheaper. A better quality, smaller tyre will always grip better than a huge, cheap one. Get the alignment done, and check the after settings. 2o is not a lot of camber and is not the cause of that wear, so maybe the toe is wrong. While you are at it....if the tyres are that bad, the fluids probably have never been changed either. I'd change all the fluids (diff, gearbox, xfer case, attessa) to give your car the best chance to run reliably for years.

thanks mate, should make it OK, I am using a friend's workshop. Just don't want to miss this event because it's damn good fun

there is no way those tyres passed inspection by a competant workshop. most likely they were on the rear, because lowering makes a bigger difference to camber in the rear. you should get a wheel alignment, and make sure they tell you the "after" settings. If you have too much camber you need to raise the car, add adjustable bushes, or worst case, add adjustable arms

well....very dead motor out, new motor ready to go in. Still don't have a lot of time to finish it before Sat...looks like a busy week coming up.

Indeed. MM is gone.

In that case I'd put in another stock one. better to bend tie rods rather than have a stronger tie rod and bend a lower or upper control arm, or even the upright. If it just bent in normal use that might be different.