Duncan

civic sounded great heading past the pits with the throttle flat. probably needs a turbo to make it go as quick as it sounds

umm Just Jap have had a race/rally R35 in the country for about 5 years....if it is still in tarmac rally spec it will be very speed challenged compared to the big $$$ r35s getting around, those regs allow very few changes.

it records sound ? dammit! next time I'll use my cooler voice. I think I did say before Bodella, but your feel for grip and willingness to listen and learn were excellent for a first time out. That second video actually covers all three tricky tuns for first timers. In turn 1/2, you need to roll through the middle of the track (not the apex) in turn 1, brake hard in a straight line, then tip into the corner. The exit opens out much more than you would think. In turn 9 (the fish hook), it does depend a bit on which car and tyres, but what works well for skylines is a double apex - one early, the run to mid track, then one very late. 3rd gear if you can, 2nd gear if you must because it drops off boost. And in turn 11 (last turn) the trick is to turn in much later than you would expect. It is the most important corner to get right for lap times because it leads onto the straight....every extra 10klm/h out of that corner will literally make up a second for the lap. If you are understeering on the exit (or understeer to oversteer if you have a 32 GTR), you turned in too early. BTW, re MIchelin Pilot Sports....I know they are dirt cheap thru Tyrerack, but there is a reason no-one uses them. Don't bother, save a little more and buy federal fz201 through the club instead (or if you feel rich, cough up $550+ per corner for yoko A050R or dunlop DZ03J). Also, as Ben will confirm...s.tay away from toyo 888 on heavy cars (they are pretty good on light cars like mx-5)

BTW...keep in mind that heaps of boost down low means it is very frequently on boost. Hard on the turbo and terrible for fuel economy. And absolutely hilarious to drive.

And I prefer alloy hub rings. Plastic ones seem to do the job but are likely to break if the wheels are on and off regularly. I'm sure either works fine once the wheel is on, because like a dowel, they only locate the wheel, not hold it. Also, make sure there is a slight taper at the top of the ring to help fitment.

Which confirms that the local repco or similar is a good idea They are standard sizes, just double check how many of each. Also there are a couple of plugs on the rear of the block and in the head as well

I fitted a z32 AFM (dead easy BTW), and blew up a china turbo.

Yeah I do have an update actually. Blew the seals on the china turbo again while towing yesterday, I've reached my budget of 4 dead china turbos before moving to a proper BB core. I did put the cost of the expensive turbo off 3 years though. In my case I think the main issue is that the china turbo is only oil cooled, and the turbo works damn hard while lugging a 2t car + 2.5t trailer. No regrets, but it's time to move to something water cooled. Andrew, I don't think you will get 20psi at 3000rpm to give you 300kw. Happy to be surprised though. The china turbo gave me 18psi @ 2500 for 250awkw max. I guess a good ball bearing core will come on boost a few hundred rpm sooner but that's all.

It was an excellent day, weather-wise it was as good as Goulburn ever does....sunny, cool, horrible cold wind that you only notice if you weren't in the car. Is it true this was the first SAU track day not to feature a spun bearing?

I spotted Bodella hooning around Wakefield park today...doing a great job for first time out.

don't be shy Nick, grab someone for a few sessions for pointers, it can make a big difference to how you approach the track.

No probs Eric and Matt, see you on the dummy grid. Weather looks good for tomorrow....fine, cold start, nice day/not too hot

No problems Ryan, white stagea drivers are a priority anyway. Matt and Pete...less talk, more track day. Did your car come up healthy Pete?

haha I don't boot it until I get out of Lane Cove Tunnel....you must have seen me cruising

I'll be down for the day, I'm not driving but am available for instruction. If anyone would like some pointers, grab me for a session - I'll be around the dummy grid or flag point somewhere.

Yep just remove the entire shaft (slides out of the xfer case). There is a seal at the xfer case end, it won't leak.

Excellent, thanks for checking this out. The numbers you provided above match what I got rom the default map for vg30 so that's good news. No idea why everything else has been moved around...I'll clean them up over time, for now it just needs to run OK for a few weeks until a proper tune.

Excellent call, thanks mate. I had been using the VH41 setting and the graph shows why it works....vh41 has the same AFM curve as VG30.... For reference, this is my vg30 curve vs standard afm vs standard vg30 curve vs vh41 curve.

Yeah mate that tacho is wierd....lucky mid 90s LCDs had such crap resolution. It consistently reads 500rpm high, not like the speedo that was a % wrong (ie wronger the faster you go) I've got R34 GTR rims (finally clearning the brakes properly) and 255/40/18 Federals. No pics it's too wet Also fit Z32 AFM today, total fail. SOmeone has played silly buggers with the Z32 AFM curve on my Powerfc and it's not running properly. I'll probably put the standard AFM back on until I can get a tune.

Hi guys, strange results when I changed from stock to vg30/z32 AFM in the stagea. While the old AFM was standard (as far as I know), the PFC was set to VG30/Z32. With the actual Z32 AFM, it runs badly. I am pretty sure the air flow curves for vg30 have been fiddled with along the line somewhere. My VG30 settings are: Volts 0 0.32 0.48 0.64 0.8 0.96 1.12 1.28 1.44 1.6 1.76 1.92 2.08 2.24 2.4 2.56 2.72 2.88 3.04 3.2 3.36 3.52 3.68 3.84 4 4.16 4.32 4.48 4.64 4.8 4.96 5.12 VG30 0 4 5 12 22 45 55 78 85 135 200 260 295 320 350 450 500 700 850 950 1200 1400 1600 2000 2200 2300 2800 3000 3200 3500 3800 4500 I found a partial screen shot from Trent which showed VG30 as 0 8 8 17 31 52 84 129 187 257 345 But the settings were not complete and I am not sure if they are stock. Can someone with standard VG30 settings in their PFC and Datalogit please post up the correct standard values? Full settings are here for reference: air-flow-curves.xls

BTW also worth noting, if it is a small leak leading to loss of fluid, the handbrake warning light will come on because there is a sensor in the master cylinder resovoir

FIt the new clutch for sure. No point getting on the dyno and the old ones slips during power run. Also expensive to have everything apart twice. The bedding process is most important to stop it slipping instead of engaging when you let the clutch in or out. Once it is fully engaged it is much less likely to start slipping, dis-engaging again. They won't be dropping the clutch on the dyno BTW make sure the flywheel is machined unless it is new. Uneven surface from the old clutch, especially if was badly worn, on the old flywheel is the biggest risk. I have taken new clutches straight to the race track for full power launches. Only had one of them fail due to not being bedded in properly (had a small contact patch, got to hot and clutch welded to flywheel).

Damn straight I have, in fact it's borken atm.....but mine has made it out of the workshop, regularly

I'm willing to bet that your old dash had the globe taken out. The new dash has a globe. The warning light should always have been on, you just never knew....

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