Duncan

yes, just drop the higher speed dash in. It is calibrated to read as required from the standard sender. You will of course need to cut the speed input to the ECU or swap ECUs to get around the 180 speed limiter....not that it matters on a public road.

where is yellow/purple? limited edition gunmetal grey is my favourite factory colour

same with every jdm gtr I've seen. only 1 VIN stamped, plus the VIN plate of course. Various versions of the vin stamping and plates for the Oz compliance though depending on how/who/when it was done

+1, and it is reasonably common. was your timing belt ever replaced? BTW while I agree with Sean, have the crank checked for run out before putting it all back together....because another possibility is a bent crank which means your bearings will be rooted shortly.

Yeah HART is a good little facility, I did a motorkhana there with the Honda club years ago. Not sure that it is available for external bookings any more, and I'm sure they wouldn't appreciate wastegate open skids. The Nirimba TAFE skidpan is excellent IMHO - cheap, easy, big, and don't cause us problems like some places do

This thread should have been closed about 3 days ago. Now it is.

Shell's too cool to wave to anyone, she ignored me last week too.

unless you bought the stagea rear diff, you need to re-use your old front diff. front and rear diff need to match

Indeed....but they won't be allowed to. v8SC is strictly controlled so it will be the same chassis everyone else is using with a pushrod v8. If they do it....neither nissan nor v8sc have confirmed this. If you want to see an r35 GTR racing, watch Australian GT racing

I'm guessing they are both a generic "lowering" spring which means they are probably fine to chuck in. In a lot of ways it could be a better setup than your average rock hard china "coil over" setup.

wow....internet fame not turning in to $$$$? Who would have thought.

I've used pretty much every brand of aftermarket bush (particularly in 32 upper arms), and found superpro to be no better or worse than any of the other brands. And given OP confirmed he does some track work, how is the 3 year warranty affected?

hhaha will do one day mate, but it's been off the road for a year since I decided to put a gtr turbo on it and turn the boost up to see what happens. now I know. but on the bright side, when it does come back it will have big turbo, full on 2" exhaust, new cam, forged rods and pistons, might even up the injectors to 300cc. should be a beast but it has most certainly seen an sau motorsport event....it did oran park GP before I blew it up

dammit, I wish I had a wierd 80s nissan with a turbo and supercharger

Yes probably noltec if they are blue (they also have an unusual knurled bolt to adjust them). And I've only ever had the aftermarket ones last a few years of hard use....I'd just replace them if I were you

+1, your engine is pinging and it is extremely dangerous. turn the boost down (or even off), don't use full throttle until you have refilled the tank with 98. If it still pings (light flashing) after a new tank of 98 octane, you need to get the computer re-tuned on a dyno

no mods or fabrication or buying required (except an extinguisher with a metal strap) undo the bolt that holds the bottom of the rear seat down and bolt the bracket in there. secure, no holes, easy to reach

Well, I've killed and rebuilt a motor or 2 over the years, and I've always had more luck when the turbos are cleaned. Your whole oil system is shared with the motor, so turbo bearings, oil cooler core, standard oil warmer, oil lines, cross block oil feed etc etc etc are all suspects where the last motor's bearings can be stuck. I use http://www.oilcheck.com.au/ for my oil analysis, they are cheap, quick, easy to deal with and happy to explain results. If you see shiney in the oil I would take an oil sample, drop and replace the oil and filter and go easy on it until the results are back. Sorry to be suggest bad news, but the sooner you find a problem the cheaper it is

umm no, it sounds poor to me. No shiney sparkles in new engines thanks. Do you have (and replace) the oil cooler/warmer where the oil filter mounts? Did you clean and inspect the turbos? You could always organise for an oil analysis check.

even better....but I guess it will slow down after a couple of days for regular updates

OK, updated (I think)

Bob those guys are unlikely to give out import papers for ADM cars, both cars I have papers for were SEVS (or the previous scheme) low volume imports

Makes more sense, I was pretty sure that the Group A cars run the Group A turbos (very modified of course) but still bush bearing and laggy as below 4000.

Actually, I have seen a copy of the application form, here it is: NAME: Don't you know who I am? CAR: Full sick orange BM man! REASON FOR EXEMPTION: My smoking hot gf wont be seen dead in anything without a v8 or turbo. FURTHER INFORMATION: Also, how would I impress people by free revving the motor at pedestrian crossings. People who think they are special and make it hard for genuine enthusiasts shit me. This whole thread is about the fact they we already have more than enough negative publicity in this community.

The whole drivetrain is pretty bloody good from the factory - only the most serious drag cars break anything except gearboxes. But to be honest a genuine 700hp would put you in the "serious drag car" category so no guarantees