Duncan

better to pull the globe out if possible (or tape over if you feel dodgy.) there will be enough error lights on the dash the first time all 4 wheels leave the ground, you don't need to be distracted by false ones as well

what the fcuk does WTF mean? I have no fcuking idea.

lol its mostly that car (engine, front and rear subframes, interior...even boot), but there is a new shell. bigger cage and not running re55s any more

I am still wondering what the topic and sub topic mean???? anyway....start with taking the car for a suspension check and wheel alignment. You might have either something lose or heaps of toe out. Maybe chuck $14 at pedders and see what they come up with.

aerofocker and Daleo you can both settle down, if you want internet arguments Forced Induction Performance is over that way somewhere ---->. Stagea section is for grown ups. Anyway, I tried twice and wasn't going to post again in here...but I'll try again for luck. aerofocker, although not polite is almost certainly on the money. Have you actually checked for an intercooler pipe problem? It is 10x more likely than an afm/fuel pump/fpr/earth or whatever other suggestions have been made. The pipe will most likely be on but not tight (eg loose clamp, or maybe a large split). It is only opening badly under boost. It idles better or worse some times depending on how well the pipe is sealing without any clamping force on it. Yes it is harder to check than changing an AFM but I generally try and work on the most likely cause instead of the 1% long shot.

I think you'll find that mods (whether japanese, australian or chinese) hold very little of their actual value. If you are happy to pay that and get a car you like you should be happy with that. But don't expect the car to hold its value over the next 5 years when you want to on sell it

yeah, I agree. Sounds like an intercooler pipe.

I bet its an intercooler pipe or other major intake leak.

not true, in fact one of the tests is that the "contractor" must have worked at least 20% of the time away from the primary job....the 80/20 rule. absolutely agreed....its just that when people say "cash in hand" they normally mean not recorded or declared Oncosts: for a perm worker. Casual remove 1 and 3 and maybe 5 1. 4 weeks annual leave per year = 8c 2. 8 days sick leave per year = 3c 3. 1.3 weeks LSL per year = 2c 4. 2-6% worker's comp = 2-6c 5. 9% super= 9c 6. Payroll tax = 6c oncosts 30% minimum. Tom, everyone in the world gets to make their own decisions on right and wrong. The line is in a very different place for you than me. In particular if someone is working for me they get a fair share of what they earn for the business, underpinned by fair interpretation of law and the applicable awards. I might keep less short term, but I will still be around in 15 years doing the same thing as I have been for the last 15 years

I'm bringing my rb30 to the cruise....marko if I can get a day off on saturday you can too. just bring the forms with you.

understood....but factory tunes are designed to be safe with the variation of actual cars and conditions they are run under. any tune which makes more power as a result has less margin for safety. maybe a little less, maybe a lot less. either way I bet it does not come with an egnine rebuild guarantee. I've got no issues with a mail order tune, and I have run one in my race car - but I would always spend $50 to check it on the dyno before hitting the track.

I've always used silicone and never had a problem. it is designed that way, even has the channel cut into the water pump gasket surface

lol...since my paycheques stopped coming in from SAU I stopped doing them. will sort them out on the weekend when i have a minute if no one else has prior

swap your rear tyres to the front. if that fixes it you have a tyre diameter issue (either mismatched sizes or badly worn)

based on a K10 micra....

at the risk or (re)starting an argument....I changed to FF plenum and didn't worry about the BOV. Other than the silly noise when I change gears flat out, no issues so far. It is possible there is an impact on potential turbo life but there is a lot of opinions out there on that one. I was willing to take the chance as its a cheap turbo

I think its more likely to be incorrect compression test results unless it is running like shit or blows heaps of smoke on boost. was it warm when you tested it was the battery fully charged was the cas unplugged was the throttle fully open while cranking was it a screw in or push in type of tester?

One thing I can say.....R32 and R33 N1 turbos are about the worst thing on the market for response. Any modern, ball bearing turbo will make the same power 1500rpm sooner....or far more power at the same revs if you go larger

that is a ball joint you can only buy from nissan. they are not cheap. and almost all of them are rooted in 2nd hand hubs. but worst of all, they really stuff the handling, leads to an "inconsistent" feeling at the rear that most people assume is a HICAS issue.

you guys are damn brave running a generic tune at the track before checking it is safe on a dyno first! $30k gamble isn't it?

meh recce is for pussies. Team Trust The Navigator Or Just Drive Blind (TTHNOJDB) FTW! at least you made it!

sounds like a lot of messing around! just put 296mm rotors on? RDA in the group buy section!

simply enough - there is absolutely no legal way to employ someone cash in hand. on top of the net you receive, employers must pay tax to the ATO on your behalf, pay 9% super (up to a limit, if you are not casual), pay worker's comp, pay payroll tax (if they are over a certain size, $600kpa wages in NSW). And meet all award requirements like overtime, loadings, allowances, annual leave, sick leave and long service leave. the only possible grey area is if they claim you a "contractor" in which case you are a business and must pay for all of those things yourself. In almost every case that goes to court, the business claiming it's people are contractors loses, and they have to pay back costs of all the above. how it happens is when the person just needs a job - when you need the money you accept the dodgy deal because its better than nothing. Its that simple. don't take a cash job unless you have to. If you have to keep detailed records of every day you work, how long and what they paid you. When you no longer need that job you have the option to go after the employer for all of the back tax, wages, overtime, super etc etc. They will absolutely lose for sure, the amount you earned will be deemed net and they will habve to pay another 50-100% on top of what you got cash. however....having said that....I would not be going after a night club or similar for back wages. You might find they have "people" and no-one needs that shit.

who me? I've posted before in this thread but here is my opinion. 1. stageas are underbraked. Maybe if you take it easy they are OK (any modern brake can lock a wheel in for stop, its the spritied drive or run down a hill that show up weaknesses). I don't take it easy so it is not OK. 2. best value for money upgrade IMHO is r32gtr/r33 gtst calipers. You get them for $500 + $400 discs + $100 pads for a "sporty" pad, and 99% of people will not have problems. $1k for essentially brand new brakes. 3. If you are 1% of people like me the ksport/g4/d2/whatever brake sets are excellent. $2k for 330 or 356mm rotors, 8 piston alloy calipers, braided brake lines and "street" or "sport" pads. Direct bolt on (or maybe the M12 vs M14 problem which can be solved for 20c). This is what I run and I have never experienced fade even on the race track. 4. you can spend $8-10k on name brand AP/Brembo/endless/project mu if you like. It will be no better than kpsort ones.

its a terrible job to do those bushes - but 980's not cheap. If you have some big breaker bars, car stands, a jack, 5 tonne press and knuckles that don't bleed you could probably do it in a day. personally its on my list of "give it to a workshop" jobs where the pain is not worth the price.....so just find someone a little cheaper