Duncan

My current theory is that I have a failing or mis calibrated onboard MAP sensor as the ECU switches between running perfectly and running like a bastard for no obvious reason other than the MAP being much lower when it does not idle (eg -9 psi vs -4 psi MAP) So, I googled "normal MAP at idle". Congrats to the AI troll factory for getting this word soup so far up the google results, it is definitely worth a read if you are interested in vacuum pressure and potential stroke causes in one handy location - https://www.cushyfamily.com/what-should-map-sensor-read-at-idle/

from a dealer..... I think that sounds dodgy as f**k

Is the car automatic?

wow that location is a gold mine.

Keep in mind that the indicator being red isn't a guarantee the unit is not working (and vice versa, an unbroken indicator doesn't mean a working unit). It is just a g sensitive tag, the unit itself is independent and may still be fine.

well, that is one reason but if a vehicle is not registered recently, and is not a log booked race car, it is pretty easy to end up with a vehicle without papers; I have a tractor and a paddock basher like that. best you can do to cover yourself there is get the current owner to provide the blue slip (includes identity check) and a written receipt as part of the sale. the blue slip is valid for a 3 months (I think, please check!)

yeah that's how it looks to me, single part with 2 nozzles and a full width mounting (which means shipping will be expensive). The cima ones were little pieces about $20ea so not a hard investment decision

Right here: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h Enter your VIN and head to the illustration with the washer nozzles that 00.37_ posted

OP should check with their actual VIN before ordering, there are sometimes variations within series.

yeah that would cause it. you can get ammonia based stuff to put in the washer bottle to break that stuff down, but it itself can cake and block the nozzles if you don't use them regularly

I had trouble with the ones in my F50 cima, had to replace them every 50,000klm or so because they blocked and were not a simple shape to unblock. Got them brand new from nissan, bought like 6 of them so I had spares for next time.

I've never done an interstate buy, but to add to checking for defects like murray said, also make sure it is not on the stat write off register. The main check is the blue slip, the shop does the identity check on the car at that point (checks engine number and chassis number(s) with RTA), and they also have to be happy to say any mods are safe (which most shops would not without an engineer taking responsibility for it)

Re fitment, I have R34 gtr wheels on mine all round, they are perfect at the front and stick out approx 1.27cm at the rear (which I just live with, the wheels tuck in under compression). Funnily enough though, if they are factory wheels they are probably worth keeping in the shed so you can put them back on when these are billion dollar classic cars

Nice, you probably won't come across too many others at the local Woolies. Unfortunately the first thing you should know, is that while they have pretty much the same potential as any r chassis skyline, they are a real slug standard.

Yeah it will be better warm as the pistons expand but 5 looks f**ked

The other thing I did some work on was the Dayz side skirts. They make the car look much nicer (my opinion) than without in a 90s kind of way, but they are held on with a crappy combination of bent sheet metal brackets and plastic clips. Over the years anything that hits them (plus time) causes the clips to break and they don't sit properly. Many years ago someone found and posted up the part number for the factory clips and I should have got them at the time, they are no longer available. Anyway, I removed and straightened the brackets as best I could, tightened the self tappers that unknown animals had used in a few places to hold it back on, and replaced all the broken factory clips with standard trim clips (got these aftermarket from here https://www.carpartsclipsandfasteners.com.au/product_info.php/nissan-infiniti-door-card-trim-clips-p-525) They were very tight in the thick plastic of the side skirt and also in the hole in the car, but they are holding OK for now....will see how they go over time with rough roads etc Neil suggested more than once that I should use wing nuts on the GTR engine mounts for ease of replacing blown engines, but I never expected to come across a wing nut from the nissan factory. Well, there they are, 2 wing nuts are used inside the front guard to mount the front of the side skirts Incidentally, I know my car is high klm and does a lot of off road work, but please all Stagea owners check inside the bottom of your front guards for build up of crap. You can kind of see in the pic that the rear edge of the front guard is not sealed at the door (pic was taken from the wheel arch where there is a plastic cover normally). This is what I removed from one side of my car (other side was similar)

So, since I still haven't found a smoking gun for the stalling I did a more complete boost leak test. I have one of these Raceworks boost leak testers (incidentally, if they are going to copy our race team's name they could at least give me freebies). I put it into the cooler piping at the turbo outlet Blocking off the other end not so simple. I've still go the the 64mm intake piping from the first time the front mount was installed (which might be a little small for the current setup), and I had an 64-50mm silicone reducer and a 50mm rubber cap, so I used those with some spare GTR BOV return piping to block off the cooler piping just before the throttle. I also had to block off the hose from the intake to the AAC. Ran it up to 15psi with a tyre inflator (the boost tester has a Schrader valve which is good for regulating test pressure) and it immediately started leaking back down. checked all the joints with soapy water and I found a very obvious and pretty large leak https://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/boost-leak4.mp4 When I turned the clamp on the pipe the leak followed it so I replaced the clamp. Incidentally, these T style clamps are basically overpriced junk; just use a good quality 8mm hose clamp up against the lip at the end of the intake pipe . Later inspection showed the clamp was bent under the screw iteself, no wonder it was leaking and probably had been since the day it was first installed There was another, smaller leak from the intake air temp sensor, I'm pretending that doesn't exist for now https://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/boost-leak5.mp4 After fixing that the car was idling properly for a while, but they seemed pretty minor leaks to me and the car is running a MAP not AFM so I expect it to tolerate intake leaks to some extent. I'll take it for a proper drive but no reason to think the underlying issue is fixed.

Great to hear that is back together and being enjoyed. So is the difference that you removed the original clutch kit and installed a new one? Looks like the new kit had a different height with the flywheel/pressure plate stack and came with a different throw out bearing?

Could be easy....is the fog light switch on (and if not, try disconnecting it too), I think the R32 treats them as headlights on

When you say ACC is on, what exactly still has power? Is it just the radio, because that is usually battery powered with an ACC signal to turn on

3000hp out of an RB8.7 is pretty impressive

Turns out there are 2 different sized shifter balls, and therefore 2 different size shifter bushes - noting they might both have the same outer diameter where they go into the gearbox Looks like R32 sedan is the smaller shifter ball

I was assuming you have 1 piece units that plug into the factory loom. If you plug that in and it blows the fuse there is a short inside the unit. Assuming it's new, you either get your money back or replace it. When you put an LED Into a standard globe holder, the polarity does matter. If you get it wrong the globe doesnt work and you need to take it out and put it in the other way around. If it does work you got it right. Neither way blows the fuse

sounds like they are f**ked, hopefully facebook does refunds

Changing your front and rear brakes is not going to cause you ABS problems What might is if you have air in the lines, because if that air makes it into the tiny sections of the ABS module it is hard to bleed out again. There are 2 bleeders on the ABS unit that you should always bleed (last) when you do the brakes