Jump to content
SAU Community

Duncan

Admin
  • Posts

    33,495
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    208
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Duncan

  1. You're on the right track, try 20 more times Maybe jack up the front of the car to give the air a chance, but I think the power steering "cooler" near the radiator does have a upward loop that might trap air too.
  2. Ah f**k it, it is a lovely starry night and 100m to the shed isn't that bad while it is still over 10o Both long and short bolt have 8mm of M6 thread and an 8mm shaft. Short bolt has 22mm under the head Long bolt has 55mm under the head The cap head is 6mm high but I don't think that matters
  3. Weird that they listed length including the head, bolt length is normally specified from the mounting surface/excluding the head Here is the diagram at least for number and relative size. It's not complete though (strangely), there are at least 2 long bolts on the top front cover but only 1 is shown This shows it a bit better I'd guess 2 long bolts on top cover, 3 short on bottom cover + 2 short on top cover. Kudos have kits of genuine bolts that might help identify number and length: Lower timing case (3 of same): https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/lower-timing-case-fastener-suit-nissan-rb20de-rb20det-rb25de-rb25det-rb26dett-excluding-p-1388.html upper timing case (2 long, 3 of short) https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/upper-timing-case-fastener-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-1387.html Upper backing plate, these look easy but note 1 x 1 size and 3x a smaller size: https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/upper-timing-case-backing-plate-fastener-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-1389.html
  4. That won't be so quick and easy; I have a bunch of those bolts sitting around but don't know how many of which. The front and rear, upper and lower timing cover bolts are all over the place I will be pulling the ex-race car engine apart sometime and can confirm exact specs then....but sometime has already by 5 months wait....
  5. yeah so to clarify; oxidisation on aluminium is a potential indicator of meaningful rust elsewhere, but on its own is not an issue
  6. Umm that's probably just how tax works (you didn't mention value of what you are importing...), but GST and the broker's fee add up I recently imported some expensive bits from US, value A$1,062.43 and paid import costs: GST is 10% obviously, car parts from US were duty free (other than GST) and Other was the broker's %. Direct shipping cost was included in the cost base $1,062.43, not just the parts
  7. Sorry mate, my old eyes need a better pic. Oxidation on aluminium is not an issue in itself.
  8. The pic isn't great, but I think it is the exhaust heat shield with surface rust. That is perfectly normal, it is not painted because it is too close to the exhaust for paint to survive
  9. I urge you not to make any further setup changes until you put some proper tyres on it. There is no point trying to improve on a flawed foundation, you will likely find it handles totally differently (strengths/weaknesses) with new tyres.
  10. Hi mate, glad you are enjoying your time at the track and looking to get your times down. In my experience you will have more fun and way more lap time success changing things in the following order: 1. check wheel alignment 2. r spec tyres on spare set of rims 3. sway bars (stiffer springs are not the best way to reduce roll as they act in all compression conditions not just roll) 4. shocks and springs (lighter than you have) 5. mechanical diff 6. better pads and discs 7. replace sure all bushes, ball joints, rod ends etc 8. more power At the moment it is pretty clear from the video that it understeers mid corner (need more front end grip) and oversteers hugely under power on exit (needs more rear grip). Good tyres will make 200% difference to both of those and you won't really notice the effect of any change until you start with some grip. Yes (comparably) stiff springs can be OK for track only use, as long as you stay off the ripple strips etc because they compromise the amount of time your tyres spend on the ground over bumps.
  11. or, just run it a few minutes, it is self clearencing
  12. Sorry, that makes sense on re-reading, why would you want torque specs for a bolt of the wrong material? It is a weird bolt Cap head with Phillips drive 27mm total length 5mm at 7mm shank for the rubber bush to go through 20mm of M6 thread 2mm of narrower shaft, I guess that is to help with centring
  13. A working auto ECU will run the car fine, I had the auto one in my manual swapped stagea for a while
  14. Good update In that case, you should check the continuity of the TPS wire from the ECU to the ATTESSA unit. If it has high resistance, it is unlikely to be the only wire in that loom with a problem
  15. You I'm not certain about yet, so I've removed the link in the quote you quoted
  16. Oh you tricky bot, got away with it for 12 months! Fixed now, goodbye.
  17. Very very loose as the rubber bush and rubber seals take the pressure, you will need a tiny tiny torque wrench
  18. ahh yes I didn't say that very well. funnily enough, I did purchase the box in the Stagea brand new in a nissan box, although it went straight to Award to get upgraded then into the race car for about 10 years, so it is a long time past it's prime. Back in the day second hand boxes were about 800 and brand new 1500 but the synchro/clips etc upgrades cost 1-2k anyway, so might as well start with a good platform.
  19. Starting in gear won't hurt anything (except your battery, but no big deal). If you run to say 3,000 in first, foot off accelerator, shift to neutral then hold it against second until it goes in, that will confirm you can shift OK (you almost certainly can) If you have a second person, have them clutch in while you watch, make sure the slave cylinder rod moves and actuates the fork. That will tell you if the problem is pedal - master - line - slave, or inside the bellhousing.
  20. hahaha true, they sound like the car is falling apart rattling around how was the wear on the spiggot bush that was not engaging correctly? good choice to fix it but I'm wondering if it would have been OK....
  21. But more importantly, is that a Super Turbo in the background?
  22. either way, ATTESSA will throw a fault if the front and rears are continually turning at different rates
  23. I run a link in my stagea too, it does a good job And, welcome to the slippery slope. If you want to stay in a budget, a highflow in the stock location, with stock intake and routing, nistune, injectors will get to to around that power at about 1/3 of the price.
  24. BTW I get what you mean about how it looks too, I have FFP etc in my stagea, but it's not free and it's probably worse than stock.
  25. Assuming the ECU can control boost, all you need is a MAC valve, wiring and vacuum line plumbing. For ECU, that's kind of like talking religion, politics or whether pineapple belongs on pizza. Anything except the standard, untuned ECU can work, in cost order Nistune + z32 AFM + Boost controller PowerFC + z32 AFM + Boost controller Link, Haltech basic models, they can run MAP and control boost so you just need the MAC valve) + wide band o2 Then a whole world of pain up to Motec Price range for the hardware approx $1k-$5k
×
×
  • Create New...