Duncan

I'm not going to try and wash my car with copper washers. Yes, they have "wash" in the name but it's just not the same thing

lol I just assumed it was a 33 gtst because there was no mention of 4wd not working. Imagine how much easier it would be to help if people listed their car, and their location, in the fields called "car" and "location" in their profile!

Still don't know why the car is stalling (although I have a hint now, looks like ECU is turning down the injector duty cycle until it stalls). In the meantime, proof nissan's japanese engineers have that kooky sense of humour normally reserved for race mechanics. I was looking under the front bumper of the stagea today, and found this sticker. I used google translate, it says "If you can read this please turn this prestige touring wagon that is functional yet comfortable back over"

What's the bet the g sensor is not plugged in, given that list.... Assuming it is the same as 4wd chassis, it will be under your centre console

yeah funny how that song never seems to end

surely there aren't many people on this forum old enough to remember Falkor. And those who are have probably forgotten anyway

lol yes, / makes a big difference

OK, you are right, your mechanic doesn't know what they are looking at. The best way to investigate an oil leak is to thoroughly degrease any apparent leak, drive for a day or 3, then put back up on the hoist and check again. The first oil is almost certainly from when the oil filter was changed (unless the filter is relocated, you can check by looking under the front 1/3 of the plenum for the oil filter. From there you can see that whenever you change the filter, you will drop 300ml of oil on top of the front diff, which then runs down the front of the front diff (pic 1, 2, 7) and steering rack (6) The other point that appears to be leaking is the ATTESSA/4wd actuator at the rear of the transfer case, the leak might be either the line that goes into the actuator or the flange where the actuator bolts to the transfer case. It is hard to tell because there is a bit of oil there. Step 1 I would back off the nut on the hose that goes into the actuator about 12 turn, then tighten it up again, this is a common leakage point over time.

also, I should add, a 4 point harness is way inferior to 5 or 6 point, because there is no "anti-submarining" strap. You really should go 5 or 6 point for every harness regardless of use.

you can get either an eye bolt if there is a nut/thread in the chassis, or an eye but if it is a stud. Then clip the harness onto the eye fitting

The other useful consideration is ports for oil temp and pressure ECU senders (or gauges if your ECU doesn't support it). I agree the standard location is a pain, and in a 4wd chassis you just end up with oil on the front sump to drip off for the next 10,000klm. Also in an R32 4wd, if you do still have HICAS installed it is even worse to get access to the stock location. I am not sure about 2wd chassis (probably the same), but in the 4wd ones mounting the filter upside down on the chassis rail in front of the diff is a great spot. Easy to get at when you are undoing the oil plug and no mess as it drains straight down. A "kit" will assume the cooler location and hoses will be cut to suit which can be a real pain if there is anything different about your car. Making braided lines to length (or having them made to length if you are not confident) is straightforward to DIY.

weird, I've changed many interior lights to LED with no issue except polarity Do the globes work if you apply 12v directly?

This might be embarrassing but LEDs are polarity sensitive....try them the other way around....

Depending on mounting location, you can fit much larger filters on that block, it is only the outer diameter and thread size that matters

Out of interest, why change to a different setup (brackets, plug change etc)? I only run moderate power (up to 400kw) but OEM/splitfires have been fine for me in a couple of cars

Right, so unfortunately there was a time aftermarket coils became cheap and readily available, but many of them are junk, including the common yellow and red ones. Splitfires (purple) seem to be OEM quality, or go OEM (or OEM from another car, there are lots of kits these days_. 2 screws each in the 4 screw bracket. I think that was because the front and rear brackets are identical.

ha! yeah for once something from this car would fit other stageas! (well except around the intercooler pipers but that bit was pretty simple. a long, long time ago in a workshop far, far away (ie, UAS) corflute was put in the front of the race car and it has lasted at least 10 years. It doesn't look super tough but afterall it is only trying to keep stray airflow on the straight and narrow so it seems to work OK.

With apologies to Bad Obsession Motorsport, I did some CAD (cardboard aided design) for radiator air guide for the Stagea over the weekend. Cardboard and tape transferred to some coreflute Cut out Installed

Yeah Link has 2 CANs built in and keypad support

Plumb the screamer back so it is quieter and legal, and the track doesn't get shut down due to angry neighbours win/win/win?

OK, so the answer to your original question, you need to sell or return what you bought, and buy 370z discs and pads.

Easiest way out is probably to ditch the adapters and bolt the brembos straight in the stock location, then use factory R33/R34 GTR discs. They will be sufficient for anything except serious track use *edit* sorry let me clarify that. You need to know if you have R chassis brembos (what I assumed above) or Z chassis bremobs because they require different disc offsets. If your ones are Z chassis brembos your caliper adapter should just allow you to run standard size and offset z chassis discs. Bit hard to guess this on the internet. DBA.com.au have a very good catalogue which will allow you to measure and identify the discs you have.

lol you would need seriously long arms in car....

That is pretty hard to e-diagnose unfortunately. It might be worth removing the cam covers and timing cover to see if there are any fresh witness marks. Re the oil pressure it is very much worth having a gauge or logging. What ECU do you have? If it can read a sender you need a sender and suitable wiring to the ECU (usually 5v, sensor earth and ECU input). If not or you want a separate gauge, any aftermarket electronic oil pressure gauge would be suitable, it will come with a sender, wiring and gauge to mount somewhere. Any expensive new engine is worth having at least a proper gauge to monitor it. With regards to your rebuild, it is unusual to have a main bearing spin. Hopefully your engine builder carefully checked it for any issues and had some feedback about likely failure cause like low oil pressure, I am concerned you might have had a bent crank and hope it was straightened OK if so because otherwise it will recur

And the wires just connect to terminals 11 and 12 on the head unit so you can check if there is anything at those pins in your setup Should not be too hard to wire in if you are missing them, but it seems a bit strange. Does you car have AC?