Duncan

Keep in mind a bad connection (either ground or power) would give exactly the same symptoms. I guess swapping the spare is an easy test.

Yeah I used to run a set of those on the race car before I moved to Bilstein/Eibach springs. I think they were pretty common out of Japan back in the day. The springs probably don't have markings but they are likely to be firmer than you might want, the shocks are probably old and crap by now, and I it looks like the strut tops have pillow ball / ball joints not bushes which are very likely to make knocking noises as they age. I saw you had another thread as well. You have the option to recondition the Ohlins but the most likely source of a noise is the strut tops which are not always included in new shocks.

Yeah the line into the back of the transfer case is for the ATTESSA actuation, it is fed from the reservoir in the boot. It is unlikely to be coming from the transfer case itself (same fluid but separate areas) and won't be gearbox fluid back there. There are 2 common leak points: 1. Where the actuator connects to the transfer case, it is a flange with 2 bolts (from memory) and a gasket. This could leak, if so remove the actuator, replace the gasket, tighten to spec and it should be fine. 2. More common the threaded fitting and angled seat is leaking. Sounds like you have been undoing the line there so that is most likely the issue, I'd remove it again, clean both the threads and actuator with brake clean then retighten. No point adding thread tape / teflon sealer there as the sealing is in the flange not the thread. 90% I'd guess it is #2, and an easy fix. You might have to bleed the ATTESSA afterwards.

So, your Blitz blow off valves release air to atmosphere (you can see the trumpet shape) who maximum duck noises. If you are happy with the how the car runs then no need to change anything, but they can cause stalling when returning to idle for example because air that went past the AFM never makes it to the engine. Same goes, if there is nothing wrong with how it runs you could leave the BOV return in place and taped off, but I think it is trouble (or future trouble). The correct way to cap it off is a proper rubber or silicone cap with a hose clamp right back where it joins the intake and remove everything else. Correct, the factory BOVs have outlets that connect to that pipe and send air back to the inlet when they pop open, so no metered air is lost. Again, in the factory setup the cam cover breathers are connected to the inlet near the airbox. As the engine gets tired it will breathe more and more oil back into the intake, which is meant to be sucked into the engine and burned. In practice, over the years, some will collect at the low points in the intake and your BOV is one of those points. Since it looks like your front bar might be off, it would be worth disconnecting at least one side of the lowest intercooler pipes and seeing how much oil has pooled there

So Dose is right, please send it over, I'd love one that hadn't had a coming together with the australian bush. Duct tape can't be holding boost pressure so there is more to this story. Is the last pic you took on the right (BOV) or left side of the car looking forward? The left side of the pipe joins into the intake under the airbox standard, I think it is probably capped there too other wise that tape would be blown out.

Yeah I'm selling that shortly (once I get it boxed for postage). I've had it in the stagea for about 15 years but since I recently moved to Android/Realdash form the Link via CAN it is not needed any more I think it is pretty impressive considering mid 90s electronics. It taps into ecu wires for RPM, speed, injector duty etc then displays values based on DIP switches. I had it set up for RB but it covers about 20 models from the era.

lol, I've snapped a cam, but it did take a special oil problem (workshop removed the strainer on the oil pump AND broke the head off an internal bolt overtightening it, you'd never guess where it ended up)

well there you go. I always thought the throttle was an on/off switch

S1 stagea has the larger bolt holes in the upright, so that should be fine. Other than potential bolt hole stuff and triming dust backing plate, I understood all S and R (and z32) are bolt on/interchangeable. It's only when they went z33 onwards that the offset was changed so that needs a specific bracket for Z33+ on R.

....I understand the upsides, but most people would consider waiting 12 minutes to drive the car after starting it to be a drawback for daily driving....

So if PFC is set to idle at say 900, and the engine is running higher than that, the ECU will be trying to bring revs down, but it only controls the fuel and spark timing. Adjust the screw on the IACV clockwise until the revs drop to the ECU target, which reduces the air coming in. Once that is set properly the idle should settle OK, unless there is another air leak or other problem

"Worth it" depends what you want from the car....if you love the car and want to keep it long term it is probably a good option. If you just want to get to Woolies faster, you would be better buying something more modern. It would probably cost a few thousand, even if you find second hand factory turbo parts. You need Exhaust manifold Turbo Water and oil lines for the turbo (and places to tap them into the existing systems) Dump pipe to suit (often custom) Exhaust to suit Intercooler in intake New ECU and tune Larger injectors Boost control Depending on power goal - new clutch or auto trans upgrade probably plenty of other things I haven't thought of, but that would be a few thousand to start.

I saw your car's country cousin yesterday Not only did it have the burnout rims on, but the rears were indeed delaminated

hmm pic previews still not working

poor old girl picked the wrong night to sleep outside the other day...

only good new for us from that pic, we are on the upper lachlan side of the border. maybe not so great for Mark's favourite child

I just wanted to share this effort from Goulburn Mulwaree council Full marks for resealing the road. Not so much for attention to detail.

yeah that would be hard to ignore. time to take the motor out....

Now that is sorted I can decide between trying to get the Fuga hybrid started (EV system error) or work out why the LHD swapped Titan is stuck on full hot for the cabin heater. I suspect neither are simple either.

right-o, well happily that problem with starting/running is solved. It was indeed a MAP sensor issue of some sort. I had got to the point of total desperation where I actually opened the manual. Right there on p 13 under "MAP Sensor Calibration" it stated there is an onboard barometric absolute pressure sensor (BAP) and that with the key on and engine not running that MAP and BAP should be the same. And yet... MAP and BAP are totally different. In fact, when I tried to calibrate the MAP sensor through the menu, it said: Which is actually a good thing, because had I been able to calibrate the dodgy sensor I might have stopped looking there and just blown up the engine instead. It's not yet clear if it was wiring, boost source or sensor, but when I physically moved the MAP sensor it started working properly, and the car is running like nothing was ever wrong. It is running the Link 4 bar sensor so I've grabbed a spare and will swap it in if the problem recurs.

Plus, if you have that much apart, you might as well clean it all and put new bearings in too. but, why do you think it needs new rings?

My current theory is that I have a failing or mis calibrated onboard MAP sensor as the ECU switches between running perfectly and running like a bastard for no obvious reason other than the MAP being much lower when it does not idle (eg -9 psi vs -4 psi MAP) So, I googled "normal MAP at idle". Congrats to the AI troll factory for getting this word soup so far up the google results, it is definitely worth a read if you are interested in vacuum pressure and potential stroke causes in one handy location - https://www.cushyfamily.com/what-should-map-sensor-read-at-idle/

from a dealer..... I think that sounds dodgy as f**k

Is the car automatic?

wow that location is a gold mine.