Duncan

Thanks Brett, great idea.

Also, since they are still squealing...get hold of some anti-squeal compound and but it between the back of the pads and the shims, and between each shim. Like this (https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/brakes-parts/permatex-disc-brake-quiet-12-oz/, noting it might cause cancer if you live in California). Like I said originally, squealing is caused by a high frequency vibration somewhere in the stack between the brake caliper piston and the hub. This stuff tries to flex and stop that happening at those points, but it can still happen where the disc sits on the hub, surface of the disc, surface of the pad etc Do you know what pads are in there? Swapping to something street friendly and less dusty can help

A big brake kit looks good but is really never required except for heavy race use. I run standard vspec calipers with good discs and pads in my race/rally car. These cars had reasonable brakes from the factory. If everything is tight when you load the caliper, you just need to push the pistons back a little. Take the pad from one side of the disc (leave the other one in), then use it to lever between the disc and the piston (carefully!) to get the space you need. If it is really hard to move you have a seized piston and need to rebuild the brakes anyway, it should retract smoothly with moderate pressure

yeah the only trick is to get the cap that suits your master cylinder. I use the SP Tools one. https://sydneytools.com.au/product/sp-tools-sp70809-25l-brake-clutch-pressure-bleeding-kit The other option is vacuum bleeder but you still need to attach it to each nipple rather than once at the master cylinder. Either way, if you use a pressure bleeder you need to be careful not to empty the master cylinder and suck air in because it is a bitch to clean back out

Good of them to confirm. I've never had to do it so don't know the procedure, but you can also measure the height to ensure you have the right carrier and bearing size

The main difference in the 350z and GTR brembos is the offset of the disc and caliper to the hub, so check those measurements from the DBA site.

Yes, the Brembo brakes across R32 Vspec, R33 and R34 GTR are all identical sizes and pad shapes, I think the colour might have changed in R34 but they are the same otherwise. They all run a 324x32mm disc (which we'd refer to as DBA 4928/5928) and a DB1178 pad Same story in the rear, they are the same across R32 vspec, R33 and R34 with a DBA 4929 disc and DB1521 pads. If you can't cross reference those numbers in the UK, the dimensions and pad samples are on the DBA website. Re the fluid, I've never come across DOT5 in the wild, it is highly unlikely to be the case. When I get a new (used!) car I just flush the fluid out with 2 bottles of general DOT3 or 4 (whatever is cheap) and then put in whatever I was after for that car (generally Motul RBF600 if it is performance or race use)

I am sure they are not a nissan factory kit, not sure what they are though

The problems are in converting a 2rwd (eg rb30) block to 4wd, in that case the oil pickup fouls the front driveshaft in the sump, and the block is not drilled for 4wd sump bolts (thus the 2wd to 4wd conversion plates). Using a 4wd block in 2wd should just be bolt on, noting the pickup location is different. It looks like the setup dose posted uses a custom pickup, probably because the sump well is deeper. If you try and move the pickup to the standard location you will have to drill to the oil gallery as the flange is in the casting but the feed is not drilled (and obviously you have to block the original pickup gallery with a plug)

I should add, if you dont have the spring that holds the pad retaining pins you run a risk of the pads falling out. At a minimum put r pins or even split pins through the hole on the retaining pins to make sure they dont back out

I reckon the pads look fine, but you can see that not having anti squeal shims might cause squealing. Even while you are waiting for them, give everything a through cleaning brake cleaner, you should be able to quieten in up

good to hear the engine is healthy! absolutely no idea about the other, it is an unusual description

or if you apply earth to 42 and turn the switch to low or high and apply 12v to 40or 41, the switch lighting should turn on

I know the smart choice is to let this go, but FYI those welch plugs go to the water jacket and have coolant behind them, so would not be great as a turbo oil feed. OP is holding a drill, not pointing at the welch plug. Per their first pic, they are asking about the factory threaded hole in the block between cylinders 3 and 4

Mate, I don't know what is going on with your posts, but I can only think one 1 welch plug in an rb that goes to an oil gallery and it is not externally accessible (behind the oil pump). There is another in the rear of the head but it is to a void not a pressure source. Please post a pic with exactly which welch plug you think would be suitable for use as a turbo oil feed. To OP, I don't have a disassembled block handy, but I believe the oil galleries are on the right side of the block, so yes it could be a pretty long passage. It looks like your sump is off so spin it over and have a look

There was a recent discussion here , but I'm not sure that confirmed it was D2S. If it is not written on the housing you might have to pull the bulb to check. As for changing it, I am not sure, but other nissans of the era you need to remove the front wheel and get to the back of the light via the wheel arch.

I thought the squealing was meant to come from the passenger seat, not the brakes. Are you using factory brakes? And do you know what pads and rotors? More aggressive pads and rotors (eg race ones) are more likely to squeal, but it always comes down to being caused by a tiny vibration when the brakes are being used. You need to pull everything apart, including taking the disc off the hub. Make sure the hub surface that the disc sits on is flat and clean (ie no rust flakes etc). Clean the disc with brake cleaner, scuff the pad surface on some rough concrete to give it a new surface (they might be glazed), clean the rear of the pad and both sides of the anti-squeal shims thoroughly. Make sure the surface of the caliper piston that pushes on the pads is also clean. Then reassemble everything, and if you are still concerned you can buy anti squeal compounds to put between the back of the pad, and each side of the anti squeal shims, although that shouldn't be required and can affect pedal feel. For the pulling to the right, that suggests the pistons in your left caliper are sticking a little, you should be able to tell if the right pads and disc are wearing more than the left. Either way, a rebuild of the calipers might be due

I don't think that is good advice, if you attach a turbo oil feed to a welch plug you will get coolant, not oil in most cases. In this case the oil feed seems to be there, it is just a question of making sure is connected right through.

well just be aware that if you want to hook up some generic switch, it will need to be good quality / high ampage, that is why the original fails. At least 20A rated.

No, the auto and manual consoles are quite different, and there was no s1 manual

Yeah mine shorted out but at least it only melted instead of burning the car down

Of course, it could be a wiring loom or globe issue, so unplug the left headlight and check for 12v when the lights are on low and high

sorry, to read that diagram and test the switch, you need a multimeter on continuity mode. You check the pins from the middle diagram, and the top diagram shows what should be connected when the switch is in particular settings. For example, on OFF, no pins should have continuity to each other. In low, 40, 41 should be connected. In high, 36 should be connected to 37, 38 to 39 and 40 to 41. I guess 42 is earth for the switch's lighting

Last I had to check, if your multi-meter-ing shows it is a dodgy switch (likely), they are available to replace new. *edit* yes, still available: https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-head-light-switch-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts not cheap, but neither is a skyline these days

welcome Ben, looks like you have a bit to do...