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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. Awesome updates, thanks for posting. Did I get it right that the auto you bought had a clutch pedal installed BTW how is grumblebee? haven't seen it in a long time.....
  2. Interesting. That diagram you show matches amayama The part I showed was at the bottom of the filler neck at the tank inlet, but neither this pic nor yours shows a part there. It does however show a part 17370M which is described as "anti roll over valve" in a totally different area I haven't come across this before but I assume it was some sort of running change during the series (mine is very late model S1), so maybe it is a S2 part and the catalogue is wrong for this vin (or maybe the tank in mine is actually from another model) If someone can share a S2 VIN, I can check that out
  3. Not really, the second one uses blue hose
  4. absolutely, either a specific product or just throw some diesel in with the oil for 5 minutes.
  5. The extra detail does help. What was it that made you check for a headgasket issue in the first place if it never got hot? I'm thinking it might be fine and the milkshake is just from the original failure. Try changing the oil again and see if it is getting better or still bad. The coolant pressure test is a good check but it can miss an issue which only occurs when hot or at much higher pressures (like compression pressure)
  6. We might be able to advise you better with more detail. When you say What did you notice happened, and what have you done since? For example, did the car run hot? did oil/water mix in the engine, and if so how did you flush the block, oil cooler (if fitted), oil/water interchange (if fitted), radiator? did you use new head bolts/studs? did you get the head checked for straightness? after you prepped the block surface with a sharpening block/wd40, how did you check it for straightness?
  7. Yeah, 'murica has a habit of calling a car the model for the following year. Ie, they are about to start selling the 2024 q50 But you can't directly assume the features are picked up in each car at the same time; those decisions are made by marketing, not engineering
  8. Can you take us back to the start? Why were you doing the head gasket in the first place? It is possible to get simple things wrong in this job.... Did you check every hole in the supplied head gasket matched the block and head orifices? What procedure did you follow to tighten down the head? Do you know your torque wrench is calibrated properly? Are the head bolts still tight now? Also I remember something about some blocks and needing to seal studs to the water jacket, not sure if that was rb30 though
  9. Right, so still been using the Stagea heaps as the Fuga is not back yet (maybe next week they say). But, unfortunately it failed to proceed (as the Bentley people would say) and Kel had to give me a flat tow back home. Not to the bottom of that issue yet so I'll post up more once it is sorted. In the meantime, I had an interesting discovery (noting, I might be the only person in the R chassis world who didn't already know this). As part of chasing what seems to be a fuel issue, I dropped the fuel tank in the Stagea. Since I had just done this in the race car a few weeks back it struck me they were suspiciously similar. Put them side by side, and voila, WGNC34 and BNR32 fuel tanks are interchangeable (R32 on left) Not exactly identical as there are different breathers between them (R32 on right) Different part numbers but identical outer shape Also the stagea tank has some sort of baffling internally (terrible focus) And, in an cool discovery for anyone tracking a R32 GTR, the good people at Nissan fitted a factory roll over valve in the stagea fuel tank filler neck that would also fit in a 32. No idea if they are still available new but they look like a good thing.
  10. Sorry I missed this post in all the replies since, thanks for checking it out! I know they are a special order item, I have the steps installed but all 4 arms are seized. They were awesome when working, turns out they pins are not well chromed and need regular cleaning and greasing to keep them alive in dirty/wet conditions (and let's face it, what other conditions are there for a rural pick up). I just need to catch AMP again during their/your business hours and find out someone reliable I can order them through. Good luck getting your problems sorted.
  11. This either either totally unhelpful or maybe half helpful depending how you look at it....but I remember a thread on the same question in the last year or 2, so have a look back a bit deeper in this forum
  12. Does sound like a head gasket or cracked block, neither of which are common
  13. I don't know what that list is, but it does not have almost every import on it under Nissan; the only ones I could spot were Titan and Almera. There are a bunch of other things like Performax Nissan but I couldn't find them there either You can get a copy of the import approval from DOTARS, that might help instead. Last I got one, the email was: Vehicle Imports <Imports.Vehicle@infrastructure.gov.au>
  14. yeah its good around town but a pain on the freeway, you have to keep an eye on whether the speed is being limited by cruise so you know to overtake, and it starts crazy far out.
  15. wheel bearing is normally a whoomp whoomp noise like a falcon taxi. If it is bad enough to be a grinding noise you might be able to confirm by jacking wheel off ground and trying to wobble it side to side. also, generally the outside bearing is noisy in turns so that might help narrow down the side
  16. Actually your preferred supplier even has one ready to go https://www.edwardlees.com.au/stocklist/nissan-make/fuga-model/pagenum-1/ presumably it has negative klm.
  17. Sounds like you want a Fuga Hybrid. Ticks all those boxes and has no vag
  18. I'd be pissed if I hadn't heard back in 6 months. I know shops get busy so they don't want to spend all day explaining why they have let you down over and over, but a response is not hard, even if it is just an email at the end of the day. Time to walk into the shop, or in you case get someone in country to do so. And speaking of which, can you walk into your local AMP dealer and order me a set of arms for Titan King Cab Power Steps? I've been waiting 6 months.
  19. actually, sorry to bang on but something else I forgot to mention....better tyres mean you need way less brake as well, so it is win/win. you don't have to knock off an extra 10klm/h in every corner, every lap
  20. Proper tyres last much better, it is chalk and cheese. We used 1x set of Z221 medium/hards for the Bathurst 6 hour race, flat out except for pit stops One the race car (which is pretty standard), I ran a set of Z221 softs (superlap spec) for a 20min session too, although it was winter not mid summer. Even for slightly serious track time it is way more fun than anything streety.
  21. Of those, only good tyres are expensive, and if you are going to the track on street tyres (even good ones) you are missing most of the fun. My old 33 gtst street car did about a billion laps in 20min sessions with: - proper track tyres (these days I'd use hankook Z221) -bendix ultimate pads, standard disc, calipers -standard rad, no oil cooler etc With under 200rwkw it was good for 1.09s at Wakefield, all day every day I think what many posters above did is double or triple the factory power (or chuck a ls in), then put on road tyres and expect track happiness. Leave it turned down and enjoy the track instead!
  22. With reasonable brakes, tyres and cooling, you should be able to go 100% for a 20minute session (well, 1 warm up lap first) Just watch out for any of them having an issue: -Coolant temp gauge and oil temp/oil pressure -Tyres loosing grip - increased understeer in long corners right hand (clockwise track) or left hand (anti clockwise track) -Brakes - oh shit moment when you press them, or sometimes there is a warning via smell or longer pedal first
  23. welcome to SAU
  24. Thanks sonicii for posting those additional docs. OP I think you should take those 3 pages and your car to an auto electrician
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