Duncan

I assumed it was being period correct. Speaking of which I have some 90s period correct stuff I need to get out of my shed, need to sell it to the seppos. Anyway, welcome to SAU!

Great place to start and a surprisingly big job in a GTR..... Engine oil Front diff oil Rear diff oil Gearbox oil Transfer case fluid ATTESSA fluid Coolant Brake Fluid Clutch Fluid Power Steering /HICAS fluid Washer Fluid

In for nitznair's sponsored track day 😎

They say 05U on the side. Do you have a pic of the rods you have? The 3 just refers to journal 3 for the crank it came from.

I don't know if there is a hole on top of the boot lid under the stock spoiler (probably not, because why would there be...) but the underside of the bootlid and the rear cabin do have holes and grommets so it should all be fine. At worst you have to drill a hole in the top of the bootlid, protect the cables through it with something (eg, a short piece of rubber host) and make sure the spoiler's gakset seals properly to the boot (if not, a thin line of silastic would help)

SAU delivers!

That's OK, the car is in Japan.... I've imported through both of them (plus Just Jap and even Powerplay back in the day). I've never had an issue with any of them, the problems seem to be when you buy a car here that was imported for sale by someone.....klm go mysteriously missing and issues get overlooked in ads....

Yes, very possible for it to be wiring problem or possibly even led in the switch....you need an answer to that first question about what that switch actually does to know if the trans is responding to it or not. I understand that Snow should lock our first gear (ie, you move from a standing start in second) and Power should allow it to rev to redline before changing (while normal probably shifts at 70-80% revs) but I am not certain

Well that is a nasty end to the story. All the best getting better workmanship next time.

just to add....keep in mind "600hp" is about 300kw at the wheels, which is not a lot these days (every second gtst seems to be making 1,127hp). You can get there with the standard manifolds on an RB26 and probably a 25 too (not sure what car or engine you are talking about because it doesn't say on your profile)

that is a very interesting manifold design. I know you've got it so you want to use it, but you should also consider selling it to someone who wants genuine, period correct parts for a gazillion dollars and then buy something more modern and top mounted that has more space for a turbo and a more efficient design

clearly you just need a bracket to mount it under the throttle pedal

Pry out (without damaging seal), there is a circlip in the diff that locates it. Push back in

I totally get that you are coming from an "internal gate is easier to install" point, but fundamentally a single wastegate for a 6 cylinder is not very effective due to the conflicting exhaust pulses. It only really works well for smaller turbos in a proper setup, like the factory twins, where the separate exhaust pulses don't clash and the level of airflow that the wastegate needs to bypass is smaller. External gates are more painful to install but perform much better for big turbos, and twin wastegates on twin scroll for a single turbo on a 6 cylinder at the most effective; for most people modifying their car it is worth the effort.

Sorry I can't confidently answer the correct size....but I can say that pulling a rotor off and measuring diameter, thickness and offset (distance from bottom of disc to top of hat) is a good idea, because that way you can't go wrong. DBA website has a good catalogue to cross check once you have those measurements, often you can find a match against another Nissan of the same age if your model details are not there

Don't worry about the ECU, the GTS4/GTT wiring will be similar or identical to GTR. Generally aftermarket ECUs are plug in with either a minor wiring change or a setting in the ECU (2x air flow meters in GTR is the main difference) The issue is the wiring the ECU plugs into, not the ECU pins themselves

Definitely GTS4. 99% identical to a GTR and it doesn't really matter whether it makes 150kw instead of 200. Don't modify it, that is just a descent into the 100 levels of hell and a way to spend unlimited money. Enjoy it as the antique it is. GTR is stupid money if you don't already have one and non-GTRs will be looked on with just as much fondness in the future, have a look at that 2000 GT-X Skid Factory did

Yeah I've only ever lost a belt once but it was as I came into turn 2 at wakie....when you are not ready for it in a modern car with big tyres, high caster, small steering wheel and low steering gearing you are going off I dead set thought I had broken something because it all went bad so suddenly

I thought displacement on demand was a v8 thing?

There are a couple of wires between the ECU and ATTESSA ECU like TPS. as long as you use the factory wiring you should be fine.

non ECU stuff like HICAS diagnostics, ATTESSA and presumably brake bleed should work with the consult. There are separate wires to the consult port for those systems Only RX, TX and CLK are for the factory ECU, the others are for the other systems

I can't see where it says specifically, but Judging from the pic on GI-6 of the workshop manual, Consult II was the current one when the manual was released. I believe they are backward compatible so III and III+ should also work. It will need factory ECU for Consult II to be of any use Why do you ask?

I can't help with the Haltech side, but if the seeed adapter is not flashing it is not receiving or understanding the data. And if it is flashing OK, if the CAN adapter is not showing live data CAN Monitor then the setup issue is at the Realdash end

correct, although I understand you can leave ground off too if you want, the box is USB powered.

lol I assumed it was R32 Maybe OP can clarify what it is for. Either way, it is a factory double DIN unit for something nissan!