Duncan

If the old sensor was connected and the ECU configured and tuned you don't need to do anything except the physical connection, if the new sensor and old sensor have the same calibration. If the calibrations are different, you need to load that into the ECU If the old sensor was never connected, configured or tuned, you need to go to a tuner who knows the ECU and has a dyno to get it set up properly

Good work, and thanks for posting up part# for the next person who needs them We just need an update after you fit them to confirm they were right

There's definitely no developer-led conspiracy here. The land wakie is on was actually sold by Pelican for the track in the first place, and younger members of the family still race there occasionally. The biggest thing happening in that area is large scale solar farms which I can guarantee are causing more angst to the locals that wakie ever did. Perhaps if we can surround the track with 10klm of solar farms there will be no people close enough to hear it

(coffee hasn't kicked in yet) Also, once if the test does confirm combustion gas, you should simply retorque the head bolts before pulling anything apart

Sorry, I should add, you can get the radiator pressure tested, and tested for combustion gases to confirm if it is a head gasket before pulling anything apart

Doesn't matter who built it or how much you paid, no-one is going to give you a soup to nuts warranty on a modified car build. Sucks, but I learned that the hard way over the years so I gave up and started doing most things myself, at least then I'm not surprised by the bad workmanship

Welcome to SAU, and great to see the car

R series skyline - check Engine bay cleaned with a toothbrush - check 30 years old - check yep, it's ready to be shipped off to USA for about $800k

Wow, that came up ALL WHITE! AHAHHAHAHAAA HAHAH AHAHAHHHAH

Great news, 28,950 signatures have made......no difference at all. Parliament refused to debate the petition despite have met the 20,000 minimum requirement because it was within a couple of month of Christmas and they didn't have time. Instead, the minister for planning said (excerpt) Full response is here: https://www.parliament.nsw.gov.au/tp/files/83781/Petition Response - Roberts - Save Wakefield Park.pdf

can you measure the PCD for the fan and the coupling? I just went through this on the stagea and have a GKTech adapter I can't use that might fix your problem

I've been meaning to post here all week, basically I just wanted to say HOW f**kING AWESOME IT IS TO SEE CHERYL GETTING SOME LOVE AT LAST. See you and her at a track soon mate. PS f**k Zoe. For all her swoopy curves, she is no Nissan.

You can use it, you just shouldn't as Link state and djr81 posted up for you It is electrically compatible but way too slow to react for proper tuning of quick load changes. You aren't driving a cheap shitter of a car and an engine rebuild would be a substantial cost. $150 for the correct sensor is good value

Good researching, the only thing I'd add to all that is that shipping time may be a bigger issue for you than saving $50 on purchase price....I'd check that out with each seller before ordering as some of them are taking months for deliveries at the moment. If you are in a rush, another option is contact someone like Jesse Streeter who will buy it from a japanese nissan dealer directly at a good price and ship via EMS. I've received stuff within days instead of months that way

Well, if @Neil sees this thread he might be able to take some pics from his car in this area. I can't remember how much factory wiring we removed from the race car but not much from memory. Or admS15 might be able to get at that space to confirm too, depending how much interior that car has in. It is possible/likely that the ABS plug is in an non-ABS car. Somewhere between 0-99% of the ABS wiring will be in a non-ABS car because otherwise Nissan has to have multiple different looms depending on the spec of the car. As for the cut wires and missing relay, you need to start with the ECU pinout and check which wires they are, either with a multimeter or tracing it by hand. The standard ECU can run without that relay (if you rewire it to IGN power) but it will stop aftermarket ECUs like PowerFC working correctly as they use that relay to save data before turning themselves off when the key is moved back from IGN to ACC. We never got to the bottom of why, but there are some minor differences between S1 and S2 GTSt wiring. For the fuel pump, there is an ECU pin (18 I think) that earths when the pump should run (ie couple of seconds to prime when the key is turned to IGN, and any time the engine is running). Ignore all the other factory wiring and connect that pin to the earth side of a suitable relay's coil (relay size depending on what pump you are using, or if you have a big setup it might be a solid state relay), then hook the + of the relay coil and one side of the relay switch to a fused wire to the battery. The other side of the relay switch goes to fuel pump +. 30A is heaps for the standard pump or most basic aftermarket pumps Finally, re the security system, great idea to get rid of it if you don't have confidence it was wired well as they can become flaky over time. You really need to spend some quality time under the dash if you are, an immobiliser is just a big set of relays that cut key wires like fuel pump or IGN. Generally you can find which wires have been re-routed into the alarm, and reconnect them in the factory loom by matching colours where they were originally cut. Keep in mind the car is easily stolen without an immobiliser though.

I'd give Haltech a call. Their support for old ECUs is terrible but they seem to keep a good library of old IP.

lol driving into the lion's den! sounds like you should have bought a nissan v8 not a holden. Cima came with active engine mounts so as not to trouble Japanese execs with such things.

Firstly, you have a pretty rare spec there for a non-ABS s2, I'm only aware of one other in Aus. I am99% sure that the ignition and ECU relay are in the engine loom near the ECU connector, so that's why you are not finding them. Their connection to the body loom is pretty straightforward with a battery power feed via the engine bay loom and a start signal via one of those connectors you are holding from the dash loom.

I kind of disagree with that; if the car is currently idling fine then it is fine. You could do a compression test to check but most likely there will be no issue. In practice, if you floor it with no load axis, you will go past the (very narrow) window where it might ping and straight into the engine can't fire at all (ie missfire). We often hit that narrow window when tuning because it is such a precise process and we are looking for the maximum timing the engine can take (in most cases), but when you are miles outside the window like this it just doesn't run at all

Generally with a weird problem like this I'd just wait for GTSBoy to post up

So basically there is a short circuit in your wiring downstream of that big fusible link, and if you can get a battery terminal to smoke it is big enough to burn your car down. I'm not familiar at all with the 31 battery wiring so I can't suggest specifically, but you need to start pulling apart wherever that link goes (eg into a big fuse box of some sort and have a look for any sign of burning and/or very exposed wires. If you have a multimeter and it goes to a fuse box, you can pull each fuse and check if the socket has continuity to ground, but as you are blowing the big fuse not a small one first, it is most likely between the big fusible link and wherever that starts splitting out. BTW, double check there is no chance your battery terminals are around the wrong way, that might do this....

We're pretty far off track here, but 2006 was far more neons under the car, high wings and shopping list of brands down the driver's door seam

FWIW, the GTW whatever the hell I have on the stagea sounds like an angry owl coming on and has hectic dose. I love dose. And the noise the turbo makes without a BOV too.

Street use? This is Realdash in the stagea (horrible reflections but your get the idea) on an android head unit. Much easier to read than the pic implies different screens and skins available, can display whatever you have in the ECU (makes more sense to attach a sender to the ECU than have a sender for a dedicated physical gauge) In the Fuga I have a plug and play Greddy Informeter mounted next to the screen Race car I use IQ3 for data logging and driver display and IC7 for driver/nav functions. I can't find any pics handy but the IQ3 is on the steering column partially obscuring the stock dash (which I kept for speedo, torque gauge and warning lights and the IC7 is mounted in front of the centre vents which are inop in the race car. Obviously the IQ3 has a logging function and analysis software which is super useful for race/rally

Welcome on board, it's been a while since we had a joiner from Australia....