Duncan

They work, as well as they work. I've got quickjacks because I don't have a strong slab or enough height for a proper hoist. For some reason I don't have many good side on pics but this is the idea. It lifts it higher than regular jack stands but still not very convenient. According to specs in mine the frame is 462mm, plus whatever you add as support blocks (I use rubber blocks about 100mm high at each corner, so about half a metre of clearance) There are similar style scissor lifts which do lift higher, to say 1 metre which might be the case for what you've shown above, but it is still nothing like a proper walk under hoist In terms of support, you just use rubber blocks between the top of the jacking platform and the factory sill jacking points. The style I have, you park the car and then slide the jacks under so clearance is no issue. If you get a style you need to drive onto, consider clearance from the front bar to the lifting platform, depending on how low your car is you might only have 100mm to play with Keep in mind, you do get clear access under the car eg to gearbox, exhaust etc, but you can't access anything around the sills (eg rear subframe mount), and you can't get under the car from the side, you need to go from either the front or rear of the car

noting....I'm no photographer

absolutely, and not just you 😛

Thanks mate. Some of the doco is conflicting (or out of date), I understood the tuning cable was not an option for the G4X plugins and you had to use the USB adapter (or CAN to OBD2 to OBD2 bluetooth to head unit), good to know the cable is an option. Do you run a USB splitter of some sort so you can still plug in easily?

Thanks to SAU for putting the event on, and it was great to catch up with some old faces for the first time in ages (and yes, there was a fair bit of shady glancing "is that....." :))

I missed the last bit, have you chosen between the pinball machine and the minister of finance yet? Anyway, in your old thread you said "Also fitted and wired up a new oil pressure/temp sensor and sorted fuel pressure with the old oil pressure sensor now reading it. Got a cheap Android double din wired up and have the link data showing on real dash app. " Can you expand on that? Are you using CAN2 inside the Link to one of the Seeedstudio adapters to the head unit USB? It's time for me to do something similar for the stagea as neither the Epson EJ1 nor the Nismo dash have stood the test of 3 decades....

Good to hear. Did they have a theory why the scratches occurred? Are you certain the ring gaps are OK (check them before reinstalling pistons!)

Doesn't sound like good news, if you can feel it with a finger nail it almost certainly needs a hone and possibly even a bore out. Sucks, but not worth having an issue. I once had to get a block re-bored when I caught a ring installing it and scratched the bore. Might also be your ring end gaps were too tight

Sounds like the ECU is not getting power. There are a pair of relays next to the ECU, one turns the ECU on, the other is for the ignition. Make sure they have battery power to them and then check 12v at the ECU power inputs (and check earth there too). Mongoose is unlikely cutting ECU inputs so original problem may have been a misdiagnosis

No probs being there before 3, just looking to confirm

Sorry if I've missed the detail, but do we need to be in by 3, or we can start arriving from 3?

I should add, a radiator pressure test kit might be worthwhile if you are having trouble finding the leak. It pressurises the system from the radiator cap and will make a leak location obvious

Yeah not fun...but back to an earlier question, exactly what did you have apart. It is highly unlikely something you didn't touch started leaking straight after you did something. Did you just remove plenum, then throttles as a single unit, then intake manifold as a single unit? Or did you partially disassemble one or more of them?

Welcome to SAU John

What do you do with the car Like Rob I've used gauges, loggers and dashes in the race and street cars, depends what you are looking for. Of course, nothing beats Power FC hand controller for combination of engine display and ability to adjust tune if required

Not really fair, this was all mind blowing stuff back in 1987 or whenever the program started, and it was ahead of any other car of the day in multiple dimensions. For sure, doesn't look great in 2022 though

Yes, the screw in the middle is the coolant bleed screw for the manifold, as it is higher than the radiator cap

Pretty sure that coolant has come from the head coolant breather on the top right in your last pic, you can see the witness trail from it. But, there is coolant in the intake manifold after the throttles, so depending what you changed it could also be one of those gaskets.

ha! "offloading junk" you are still talking like it was 5 years ago. These days that stuff is solid gold

tridentt150v wins the guessing game Right sized wheels might be a better solution than spacers, but at least you've got it sorted....

I agree, most likely been drilled and tapped for a cooler. If you aren't running one and the blue pieces are proper AN caps you can just leave it like that.

Thanks, I'd love to hear when you can

haha yes, count the liquorice strips left afterwards. 2 strips good, 1 strip bad. Sorry, I see your profile says r33 gtst, I had assumed gtr, didn't realise gtst with alsd had an attessa sensor too

Great work....foam sealing makes a big difference to the actual effect too.

If that is your G sensor in the pic, it does not have the high impact red line showing. If yours has a more obvious red section in the centre glass, it has had a high G impact. However, the shock indicator is physically separate to the actual g sensor electronics and is only an indication that the G sensor might be faulty. If your ATTESSA is working OK I would not worry any further