Duncan

I'm surprised you can hear a properly tensioned timing belt over the fan and injectors, gates or not. I run the gates one in the race car and can't hear it at all. Obviously they would get noisier between the belt and idler/tensioner bearings if over tensioned

I don't have direct experience with that. I can say on my HICAS stagea that stock R34 GTR wheels (18x9 +30) stick out about 10mm so your 18x9+25 must be very flush or already sticking out a little. They do tuck into the guards under load if that is your concern without extra camber required. Unless I can't use calculators, 18x10.5 +20 will sit 20mm further out than current, so you are going to need hilux flares unless you are going for the pokie outie look. No idea how the inner clearance is, seems like it would be OK (14mm less than your current, so you could get under and check) I use this site for offset calcs https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

Great to hear you got the immobiliser out and are able to start the car now, and I'd have to say what you had under there is typical of many quick/cheap alarm installs I've seen over the years - no wonder they are causing problems 20 years down the track

Yeah I wasn't able to get 285/35 to fit on 18x10+20 either, I am running 285/30 as well

Hi Sam, congrats on the purchase. Unfortunately 18x10.5 don't fit properly on the front. You might get away with removing the guard liners and using undersized "stretched" tyres. 18x10 +15 to + 22 fit OK The Enkies are not particularly strong wheels and you will find examples of broken ones as well. These days a GTR deserves quality wheels that fit properly.

And if you move the injector to another cylinder, does the missfire move as well? In any case, since you have factory ECU you need either factory injectors or aftermarket drop in replacement of the same flow rate. Also you may find it hard to buy single injectors they generally come in a set

Well, these days most of their presence is parts (from both Japan and China), but historically they are an importer and broker. They also do and support a lot of racing (not mine sadly!) so they have plenty of real world experience

If I needed someone to check out an import in Sydney, I'd get Just Jap to do it. They have a mechanic who has worked on a billion of these. Not sure if they actually offer the service but it would be worth calling and asking

Out of interest, how did you come to decide you need new injectors? Nissan would be a reliable replacement on a stock car but I guess not good pricing

It never ends

That sucks, I guess she doesn't want you to put those new tyres on her FWIW, it won't be the starter motor via a 60A fuse, way too small, but headers (and anything else you've modified, which is almost everything now :p) would be the place to start. Multimeter in the Fuse socket will probably confirm continuity to ground, and one option is to disconnect battery +, put 60A fuse back in and then check the regular fuses one by one to narrow down which specific circuit has the issue (I'm assuming the 60A fuse is in serial with the individual fuses like in sykline)

Have you seen examples of that fan not working on RBs? Why would it be substantially different on the different motor?

At face value, if the motor runs with the relay disconnected it is probably earth switched and it is earthing out somewhere in the loom

We would call that a half cage here as there are no legs from the roof at the B pillar down to the floor at the A pillar. As such it is road friendly in Oz (nothing to bang your head on), but also of very limited safety benefit and not legal for any racing. Hard to see in the pics, is there a point to bolt the extra legs on at the B pillar roof? It might be a standard kit like the cusco bolt in cage with the front legs not installed. I assume you couldn't find a brand on it or you would have mentioned...

Without having checked the wiring diagram, visually they all look like factory style crimps. They use brass joiners and a small piece of electrical tape from factory Have you seen the (readable) diagrams that GTSBoy posted up?

Best to take it to a shop. Diff bushes are a pain in the arse to change, it can be easier to drop the whole subframe (one of those jobs you can't do on a quickjack....) They need to be cut or pressed out, and pressed back in again at the rear, the fronts are easier to get to. You should be able to diagnose diff bush issues by jacking up the car, supporting with stands and getting a big pry bar between the diff and the chassis...it should not move noticeably.

There are a pair of studs in the chassis, your right arrow is correct but the other stud is on the opposite corner. Pic from my car

Unfortunately the shape is a little fiddly, eg from google image search for "ATTESSA sensor" You don't need to have something identical, in my manual converted stagea it has been custom mounted and working OK for about 15 years. It does need to be pointing forward (as it las separate lateral and longitudinal sensors) and reasonably level when parked (for the same reason), and ideally towards the centre of the wheelbase

They are decoration. You might notice the difference if you were doing a lot of track work without a roll cage and tested it back to back.

Most often speed input....is your speedo working....those cables like to break after all this time.

Well, potentially access is an issue. If you wanted to remove the rear subframe (big job), you would not be able to have it on the quickjack, you would need to use stands. Not being able to roll under it from the side is often an issue, just means you need to crawl in the long way (what is the point of a jacking solution that is meant to be convenient but is actually inconvenient?) Re the blocks, those would be no good for a platform jack like you posted because the bottom is not flat. I have 4x rubber blocks approx 150mm cubed, like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/114377766957?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=dKrnEHllRgO&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=dJvnaZ11TB-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I can't see any use for rubber pads on a jack stand as you generally would put them under a steel subframe or suspension point, not the sills (if you use sills the car will be lower making it hard to work under, although they would be out of the way for pretty much every task)

I guess it's a V36 from his profile, have a look over this way Alan: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/170-vq-series-v35-v36-infiniti/ And you should post up some pics of your car

I've heard that sentiment around but highly doubt that is the issue for Wakie. Surrounding land is RU2 which requires minimum lot size 100a to build on. Probably some of the local land is larger than that so could be split up and sold to escaping sydney siders, but nothing like where Oran Park was, Amaroo, Calder, Sandown etc I think the Liberals just don't see votes in fixing the issue. AFAIK Labor have not come out either way but will probably have to decide before March.

speaking of which, where were you and the bogan mobile?

looks good....but man that first engine bay scratch is going to hurt. maybe just do it deliberately to get it over and done with