Duncan

how on earth can you give due attention to a post and the overall situation if you are posting on a phone? f**k I feel old some times. bring back the dos bbs.

Exactly right, it will want to self centre. Just do it, no big deal

I'd say you had an immobiliser that needed that fob inserted which allows you to start it for 30 seconds. Then someone removed that and so it starts without it as well.

So, seems like Paul said, you probably need to pair the phone, which you have to do via a menu setting (not automatic). Google Translate has a camera option that will live translate the screen to help

OMG, how right were you, the apocalypse did arrive in 2020! I've fixed my web hosting in the last couple of days so all those missing pics at the start of the thread are back

sorry if this is a dumb question, but can't a regular 6 sided hex driver undo that, just like a 6 or 12 point socket can undo a 6 sided nut?

I agree, genuine gaskets and rocker cover washers, new half moon seals (with very light silicone bead), bolts tightened correctly will give you years of leak free covers. I don't know the GRP ones at all, they might be fine BTW the rover cover bolts are 2-4NM per the service manual. It is worth re-torqueing them after the first drive

Have you got a pic, or steps, to the screen where bluetooth is turned off?

But, the reason I remembered this thread was I had to change the rear pads yesterday, and jeebus how hard did they make it. Clearly nissan US engineers are not the same as nissan Japan's people. Apparently they had issues with pads falling out of the rear brakes in the very early models, so this is the "improved" version. They are a large single piston design, here is the devil's spawn You can see the pads have 2 tabs to hold them into the mounting bracket at the bottom And at the top there is a large spring clip that stops them sliding out. To change the rear pads: 1. Undo the top mounting bolt for the calliper cylinder 2. Undo the lower mounting bolt as well. That's right, you can't just leave one bolt in place and let the calliper rotate outwards to hold it while you change the pads, the whole thing has to come off the hub. Note, the pads stay in place in the calliper, because.... 3. The outer pad is held to the calliper by a spring clip on the back of the pad, and 2 tabs on the front which go into 2 holes cast into the housing You can see the channel for the tabs at the top, the only way to pull the pad out is upwards and out. This is the outer rear pad once removed 4. OK, that was the easy one. The inside pad is also held in place by spring clips. In my case I was putting 50% worn spare pads back in while I wait for new ones from the US, but it is not possible to just slide the pad out, the piston needs to be pushed back 100% to allow the spring clips on the back of the pad to clear the piston 5. Happily, at least the rear disc just slides off the hub then, no bearings etc to deal with Reinstallation is just as painful as removal, as once the pads are in the calliper, you need to slip the lower pad tabs over the mounting bracket, then tap the calliper back into place while not mashing the dust covers of the mounting bolts. All that for a solid (not vented!) 14mm x 320mm disc, and tiny pads. Because it's a big vehicle and a single piston design, the pads don't wear evenly by literally mm across the surface That was a hell of a lot of work for a very crap design.

So, it's been a really long time since I updated this thread. (like, 5 years long time). The Titan is going great, we've put about 120,000klm on it, and other than having to replace the radiator because it was running hot when towing, there have been no real problems. It has been used pretty hard between towing and going everywhere, lots of dirt/off road driving. Get very bogged once at the back of our property, but to be fair we also managed to bog our patrol trying to get it out so it was pretty bad (managed to winch them both out in the end). Those fancy steps are also broken because the pins in both sides seized and the manufacturer won't answer re spare parts. Overall it is doing well, plenty of people space in the king cab, and still a good load space with a full size bed. The folding cover over the rear is great, closes things up most of the time but can open as much as required for taller or longer loads. Towing is going great as well, it is very stable and has plenty of power. It still sucks to park in regular spaces, but living outside the city that is not such a big deal, we just pick our spots.

To expand on that...there are many things it could be, you really need to poke around under the dash until you find it. You should be able to physically feel the click when you have the module making the noise. Is it under driver's dash (there are probably a few relays at the fuse box), or passenger side near the A pillar in the footwell?

Looks like the Y61 Patrol Part# is 27220-VB201. I've got an R32 one, it is 27220-85L00. Amayama doesn't list either of those as suiting R33 but that's no guarantee, it says R33 is 27220-15U00 and that they were in Nissan Bluebird Nissan Cefiro Nissan Laurel Nissan Maxima Nissan Skyline with CD20 GA16DS KA24DE RB20DE RB20E RB25DE RB25DET RB26DETTHICAS RD28 SR18DE SR20DE SR20DET VQ20DE VQ25DE VQ30DE. Unfortunately none of them are listed as cross references in FAST Alternatively, $50 seems like a cheap bet these days....ultimately it just needs to be installed/sealed physically then sort out the wiring (2 pins only....)

For general reference and sorting out particular plugs and modules, the english r32 gtr manual is wideley available. In addition, GTSBoy did the world a major service and did high res scans of the wiriing diagrams here: Beyond that, a combination of pics and questions will help, and in the case of the "what is this" questions the engine bay general location, wire colours and number of pins will give us a chance. Having said that, my guesses #2 potentially air con compressor signal #4 I believe the standard radiator has a temperature sender at the bottom (for AC control?), that might be the plug for that #1 and #4 is a problem. You will see in the wiring diagrams that white/red and red/blue, orange/blue are common colours for major functions like Ignition power, so it will be hard to track down without identifying the plugs

sure, just PM me your email....

man, you have a sickness

Someone more Haltech friendly than me could answer, noting Plat Pro is pretty old software. I believe R34 had a MAP sensor from factory and the Haltech could be configured to use the External Map instead of the Internal/Onboard sensor. In my R32 the factory MAP was removed long ago (it only runs the boost gauge and doesn't go to ECU), so I had to connect a vacuum source to the internal sensor nipple. The vacuum source has to be after the throttle(s)

Can I ask if you have a vacuum/boost source connected to the nipple on the ECU? If so, where is the source?

They are pretty much mandatory for hoist lyfe.....many jobs need to be supported temporarily while working

Great idea. Once apon a time there were gauge pods available that replaced the stock clock above the dash as well, would be great to see an option for a printed replacement. How is the visibility to the gauge from the driver's seat?

Dose will drop by in exchange for a passenger ride in something euro

While I was rolling around on cold concrete (I'm too old for this shit, I need a hoist again), I noticed the v1 nocas rack from 2005 had broken in the accident, so out it came. You can see the welds split on the left, but to be fair it lasted 15 years of race rally abuse before the tree was a hit too far These days of course aftermarket is easy, I went GKtech because black and looks reasonable quality I check the inner ends, they were in good condition (not original, I put them in about 5 years ago). Measured the distance between the inner tie rods ends to try and get the wheels pointing something like straight ahead until they get to an alignment and swapped the inner and outer arms over. The Gteck centre was 3.5mm narrower than the old nocas rack so I spaced the arms out with washers When to fit the arms up and found out that the old rack was definately off centre, so I kept the same spacing but took 5mm from one side and added 5mm to the other. I'll try and point the wheels straight once everything is back together, and then will see how hard the alignment guy laughs when he checks my effort I did have trouble with the nut on the left ball joint being stripped (possibly crash damage, who knows), and f**k me if I didn't actually have a spare of exactly the right m10x1.25 half height nut. Happy days, 2 jobs down, 1 million to go

OK, finally warm enough to not freeze in the garage, so v1 of the rear panel rodent excluder is in place. Cut a section from ally flyscreen mesh The plan was to sika it in place, but happily there was flange on the unit so I used the magic of cable ties to install it. I'll check it at the end of a season and see if its still in place...

Got a pic or diagram of the bush you are after?

I just keep a spare of the lift and main fuel pump in the track parts kit. Easy enough to swap over if one fails, and easy to tell if one fails with fuel pressure alarm/display/logging

Not as purple as an HKS one