Duncan

It is looking great But I'd be running the standard, not nismo thermostat (even for track use). Assuming you have sufficient cooling, it just runs too cool with that

Sorry but those results are a good example of bad news, it won't be just a test issue or similar (unless you can't repeat the result on #4). At a minimum head comes off but more likely it is a broken ring land because valve issues most often give 0 compression

Maybe.....but I've been lifting my 32, stagea and previously 33 with the front tow points for years, never had the slightest sign of damage. Tow hooks are actually a very convenient spot for low cars because you don't need to get the jack far under the car

well, you should put proper semis on them for the khana next year, some soft yokos A050 or hankook Z221, they are just mind blowing compared to street tyres

f**k, someone would have felt a bump when that happened!

So, I totally didn't mean to start a serious discussion, but clearly at (relatively) low power levels, standard configuration twins are perfectly adequate for competitive use. Depending on race category rules, response can be everything. The BSM national champs winning IPRA car ran smaller than stock twins due to the intake restrictor requirements, and N1s are perfectly adequate in production car racing too. Even in a case where the rules don't limit power, it can absolutely be better to trade off 500rpm for 100kw or more at the top end, as BK just demonstrated in the motorkhana....500rpm can take forever sometimes....

Sounds like you had a hectic but fun weekend. And.... Of course twins > singles

It's hard to believe the club has been around 20 years, good on Christian (Prank) in particular, but also Shell, Paul (URMINE), George (two40) for doing the work to get the club off the ground, and to all the committee and club members who have kept it going through good (and bad) times, a lot happens in 20 years Kel is racing at Great Tarmac Rally that weekend but I'll be coming along, I guess the Stagea needs a wash. I hope you have had some luck digging up old faces (not literally)

lol I meant when it was sold to those guys, way back in the day. From memory NS started as a private site around the same time SAU did....

OK, I've tried this with limited success staying active before..... This is a link to the C34 workshop manual in japanese: https://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/stageaservicemanual.pdf I don't have a M35 one but would be happy to host it if someone does

Google translate app has a camera feature that does a near real time translation of text you point it at. The first message is telling you to change your oil filter, the second one says "HAHAHA why you buy this car when you no read japanese HAHAHA"

It does sound a lot like the locking mechanisms need a clean then grease, under the door trims

I hate when hoes go missing

Do you know if the ECU is standard? If it is flashed or aftermarket it could also be an idle control issue in the tune

Yeah sorry, to be clear, I'm not recommending that tyre size for you, for a C34 it is a lot bigger than the standard 205/55r16s I'd take the spring off one side front and rear, compress the tyre right up and see how much bigger diameter would fit and buy whatever suits that in your wheel size. Bigger diameter tyre makes a big difference to overall grip due to ground clearance and contact patch shape.

In that case, they are standard rb20e injectors, and probably flow stuff all because they were designed for about 100kw in a set of 6

well......so while we've modified our C34 mainly for more whoosh.....we have also done a couple of things to help if get around the property in average conditions (bad conditions are reserved for the tractor and patrol) Not sure exactly what snow mode does in M35, but I often use the centre diff lock in ours when the ground is tricky because it stops that issue of either front or rear spinning over uneven ground and giving up all traction as a result. It also has a working LSD in the back which helps too. For sure systems designed for reasonably flat tarmac fall down pretty quickly over soft or uneven ground so locking it up helps a lot. The other thing we did that made a massive difference is taller wheels; it is on 245/45/18s which give a lot more ground clearance. The are wide road tyres though, so their traction in mud is poor. We still had issues on very steep hills where there was enough traction but the oil flowed too far away from the pickup, I had to shut it down quickly and go back the long way. I reckon if you put the biggest wheels you can fit under the guards, AT tyres and taller springs, lock the diff if possible, it should be pretty capable. Plus, for sure, cut the back off to fit more bales in. Having said all that, an unregisterable ute is still the smart choice. It will have centre diff lock, low range, much better ground clearance and if it is mechanical diesel it will always start and run (probably poorly). Our property came with a hilux basher that we abuse when required

Not GTR ones, they were mustard coloured 440cc. What ECU is running them, standard or aftermarket? If aftermarket the injector settings are the best way to check actual flow

Well, good news, SAU NSW can do club rego these days. I'm not sure on the details but I'm sure someone from the club can post them up

Even if all the new sensors (or even old) were wired to the ECU, you would still have plenty of action in the dash. Night illumination, all lights coming on for a few seconds when the key is at IGN, etc etc. Plus, things like the tacho tap into the same signal that the ECU uses. Your problem is a dash or dash wiring issue. I forgot to ask, are you sure the dash fuse is not blown? When the dash is out of the car, can you apply 12v to pin A9 and ground at A4, B10, eg by touching terminals on a battery. Then, if you apply 12v to any of the warning lights (eg A1, A2, A7, A8 etc), they should light up. If that is all good check the car side where the harness is, check the grounds all have good continuity to ground and A9 has battery voltage with the key at IGN.

Well, I'm not saying that GTR diffs don't often wear out the navigator side bearing, but I can tell you I've never heard of it in 20 years of SAU.

So, the dash has about 40 connections through the pins in the back. If you are getting absolutely nothing then it is almost certainly power or earth that is missing. Suggest you get hold of the dash pin out and use a mulitmeter to check for those pins

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the standard diff (assuming you don't have the vspec ALSD), Nissan were kind enough to put a proper race spec diff there from factory. Did your engine builder have any specific benefit to go with the advice to change it? It is possible (but not particularly likely) that the factory diff centre is worn after 30 years, but if so it is a simple maintenance job to reshim the centre back to either original tightness, or if you want it to be difficult to drive in carparks you can get it tightened up more than factory. We use a tightened version of the original diff in the race car and have never had an issue with its ability to lock up when needed

Where exactly doesn't the shroud fit? Often some trimming to the top/rear of the shroud is required to clear the fan because the thicker radiator pushes the shroud back

Firstly, don't worry too much about the compression test results in the short term. If it is noticeably burning oil, or getting through oil between changes you can plan for a rebuild in your own timing. Re the immobiliser, they can be a PITA, I've had a couple fail over the years. Even if you are familiar with wiring it might take some time to sort. Best to pull the trims off, unmount the fuse box and key wiring and start chasing carefully. Basic operation of the immobiliser is they will cut some key loom wires and run them through the immobiliser. Good ones use all same colour wires (generally black) to make them harder to trace quickly. You need to find which factory wires were cut and sent via the immobiliser, and then join them back together (same colour to same colour). Generally that would be ECU power, start signal, fuel pump etc but it depends on the installer and immobiliser how many and which circuits are controlled. The basic wiring context is battery power comes into the key, and then depending on key position it goes back out on the ACC, IGN and/or Start wires. From there the ACC and IGN (as well as BAT) go to the fuse/relays at the driver's knees. The immobiliser could be tapped in before but more likely after the fuse/relay box in individual circuits. The other thing they almost always do is come with central locking so there will be separate wires for that, in that case they may have either cut or joined to, or just run in parallel factory wires. Your car will still open with the key even if you remove the immobiliser.