Duncan

I am reasonably sure there was no "nismo" r33 gtst, what information did you have on such a beast? If you check your vin in FAST it might tell you if there is something special

well, I hope you are OK (other than the wallet)....nothing puts racing on hold like repair bills

Right, with the 3 day weekend I got a heap more done (not) But I did finish putting the scuttle panel cover back in with new clips and the wipers back in. I also checked out where the spoiler had been mounted to the new boot. 4/5 to the shop for putting some sika there to seal between the wing and the boot. Genuine seal on the right This is what it looks like when you change the wing sometime in the car's life and don't put the seal back. There was no rust visible on this bootlid with the spoiler attached (which is why I foolishly bought it to replace the one I smashed the crap out of). Worse, this boot had rust before and was not repaired properly, just bogged, then they STILL didn't put the seal back in All back together with the proper nissan seals in place (got them new from Just Jap). Should stay rust free until the next tree hits it.

I guess they are green relays on a 32 GTST then First thing I'd do is swap the relays. If the ECU starts up OK immediately (but you do or do not have ignition issues), the relay is the problem. You can test the relay on the bench by applying 12v directly to pins 1 and 2, you should hear a click and have continuity between pins 3 and 5. To check wiring to the relay, take the relay out and probe the 4 pins. On both relays, pins 1 and 3 (or 2 and 3) should have battery voltage (or continuity to the side of the 25A ENG CONT FL that does not have battery voltage when the FL is out). pin 3 (or 2) on each should have continuity to pin 16 on the ECU (the one you earthed earlier), this is the signal to turn the relay on. Pin 5 on each relay is different but the ECCS relay should have continuity from that pin to ECU 49, 49, 109 (and the ignition relay to the ignitor box on the engine). BTW the relay shows the layout on the top. As Andrew said 1 and 2 are the switch and 3 and 5 the contacts that are switched on.

Nissan Data Scan is here (I think, I don't have a standard ECU and have never used it): http://www.nissandatascan.com/ You need the consult port to PC (USB I assume) cable so it requires physical purchase. The ECCS relay is what pin 16 of the ECU connects to so that is probably the quickest way to find it. I though it was a blue relay but you mention you only have 1 near the ECU and I expected 2 (ECCS and Ignition), and it is a 4 pin not 2. It is right next to the ECU on the A pillar assuming everything is stock(ish) This is the thread with the wiring diagrams: Per diagram 1, chase the wires at pins 16 (earth trigger for relay) and 49, 59, 109 (main ECU power), they go to the ECCS relay, power apparently comes to it from a 25A fusible link, I believe they are all in the engine bay fuse box next to the battery (diagram says Fusible Link 5)

Great thinking on some of those convenience changes, we've done a few things for the race car over the years too and it makes a big difference for convenience, speed and frustration. I like the tensioner hole (are you going to put a grommet in there? and the extended turbo drain, they should all be made that way) As well as your access to the intake, you will find even more helpful is how easy it is to get to the starter from underneath any time you need to take the gearbox or engine out. We don't have a heater any more and have re-routed some other lines, there is so much room there I can get a full size spanner on the starter motor bolts if necessary (although generally I just use a stubby 14)

Thanks for the clear post and description of what you've done and tried. As you seem to be running a standard ECU, you can use the consult port to work out what is happening at the ECU using something like Nissan Data Scan; it will show you all the ECU parameters which is likely to tell you the problem more clearly (particularly before the EGT light comes on). My guess is the ECU is off until your that light comes on (or it may have some power but not enough to start up properly). I haven't worked through this on a 32 but had a similar issue with a PFC in a 33 that turned out to be a fuse missing in the fuse box that provided power to the ECU (and it had some, but not enough voltage until we sorted that). You said that power at the ECU "voltage was all over the place". Was it low, different between the pins or fluctuating? There are wiring diagrams in that GTSBoy has posted up that show the power supply for the ECU (they say GTR but cover RB20 as well). Check those out and follow everything from the battery to the ECCS relay. You need to have a good battery voltage into that relay at 2 of the pins (can't remember which but the diagram shows). You said you grounded pin 16 (ECCS relay) but did you ground the wire with both ends in place, and did you hear the ECCS relay click when you did? When the ECU grounds pin 16 it activates the relay which turns the full ECU on. At that point you should have identical and stable battery voltage at the ECU + pins. It might also be a ground issue to the ECU since voltage needs a circuit. If all that is working OK I'd suspect the ECU, which you should be able to swap with any other RB20 ECU since they are not tunable and security is not built into them. You may have an internal issue (it is a computer from the 80s afterall) Finally, I think I heard an alarm, this is the most likely place to have an issue. A good alarm should not be easy to bypass, but if you can disconnect it temporarily that would help rule that out too.

do you have a picture or parts diagram for the parts you mean?

Welcome to the forums, and nothing strange about your car coming via Oz, we ended up with lots of the good quality cars (and a few shitboxes) here over the years. Do you know anything more about it's history?

Definitely go the ARP bolt on a big power RB30. The RB26 bolt is much larger/tighter.

I'm pretty sure the Plazman on factory won't fit in the Z32, I assume the purpose of looking for a FFP is because the factory runners are too tall

So, you need to find out what error 12 is on an HKS FCon. It might be AFM or it might not. Documentation for them is hard to find except in Japanese so either talk to your local authorised HKS dealer if it was fit locally, or you need to try and contact HKS Japan. Or even better, throw it in the bin, they were early but very proprietary, hard to find a tuner etc. You will need to replace it with another ECU and get a tune, lots of options from Nistune to PowerFC to Link/Haltech to a whole world of harder/non plug in options

Assuming you have horizontal space in the engine bay, any of those replacements that don't use the lower factory runners would be OK, wouldn't they? I run ebay china spec in my rb25/30 stagea. Also I am not sure how you (or the market) define long and short runners, in those pics there is a big variation. The length in mine looks visually similar to your last pic. Of course, there is no science in my response; the bottom end torque is very drivable in my setup but it is a manual rb30 not a 25, and I don't have back to back dyno runs with factory runners so it may be worse down low than stock. BTW if you are pushing the engine you will want individual cylinder o2 or temps when you tune. You can see visually that there is no way that all of those different designs will end up with the same air flowing into cylinder 1 as cylinder 6. Also, keep an eye on clearance to the clutch master (particularly if it is boosted) if you go with a cast FFP.

Well, on sound better I'd put a slightly larger exhaust on and a pod intake (with a shield from the engine bay). Will go approx 1% better but sound much better. Looks are pretty subjective....many people start with wheels

Welcome. What do you want to modify it to do, go faster, go much faster, sound better, look better, stop better etc etc....lots of ways to spend your hard earned!

Good news, they are available brand new (as long as you don't need the lower lip as well) https://justjap.com/products/nismo-heritage-front-bumper-bar-fascia-cover-nismo-n1-version-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr

Are you in Australia with a complied car? If so the fuel neck was probably changed at compliance to one with an unleaded restrictor; therefore any generic fuel cap will work.

Great to see. Obviously the price to make that worthwhile will be through the roof, but making them by hand is really not a possibility.

Valve stem seals are a valid reason for oil use and smoking once the exhaust is warm, mostly at idle (and at back off, but that is harder to spot)

I'd check that the earth strap between the chassis and block is good (or check resistance between the block and chassis, should be basically 0)

Any possibility you put the pressure and return fuel lines the wrong way around? If the pressure line is connected to the fuel pressure regulator instead of the fuel rail you will get no fuel in the rail when the pump runs

First up, Nissan didn't use 2 washers on the oil inlet which is the clue that it has all been apart previously and you may not be looking at factory washers anyway. To work out if your 1.3mm washers are OK (I guess so), measure 2 washers + the banjo and subtract the length of the banjo bolt under the head to the end of the thread. As long the answer (ie, how far the bolt will go into the housing) is at least the same as the diameter of the bolt you are all good, probably even a little less is OK as these are hollow bolts anyway.

You will be fine without the booster, it is one of those things that nissan over-engineered on the GTR. Murray did mean that box and the looped clutch line, because again it is not required and does not improve things (in fact, it will make the new setup almost impossible to bleed as it traps air because it is horizontal not vertical). The damage on your booster is due to the clutch master leaking brake fluid onto it, and it does look like the slave is also leaking. The booster damage is probably just cosmetic because if the booster was leaking you would notice poor/inconsistent clutch pedal feel and/or poor idle in the motor. So, take the booster off, clean and paint it and reinstall, buy a new master and slave cylinder with a new braided line between the two and you will have another 30 years of trouble free clutching.

umm yep. I scrapped a few GTRs over the years after parting them, although never an aussie one

The hood is where I grew up. The only cars there had been set on fire. On topic, good luck and keep this updated, you've got a lot of work ahead!