Duncan

umm, yep. So if you are buying for looks choose whatever you like the look of What size wheels do you run, the R35s @390mm would be very tight under 18s

front and rear of bonnet to engine bay? (just a guess!)

It must be carrier bearing week. I agree, you need box out and to measure correctly. The pedal might have been part of the problem but more likely it is masking the bearing moving less than it should

OK, either the clutch pedal adjustment is no good, or the release bearing is the wrong height (same as a thread yesterday!). Since you said it is up on ramps and at mechanic, it should be easy to confirm if the pedal adjustt is the issue. Pressing the pedal should start moving the slave cylinder rod within the top 1/4 of it's travel, and the slave rod should be fully extended by the time the pedal is on the floor. If not, adjust the pedal. If the slave rod is moving all the way with the pedal, you need to take the box back off and fit the correct sized release bearing and carrier.

Unless you can fix it with pedal adjustment, I believe the issue will be related to the release bearing not having enough movement to release properly. The only way to understand and fix that is box off and measure the movement. I've never had to do it but there will be DIY guides out there somewhere

Well, it would have been useful for him to tell you the actual code before resetting it....but I would not lose a second's sleep about it unless it recurs. Some codes are just for a temporary value out of bounds like an o2 sensor rich or lean. They might indicate a long term issue or it might just be random

In that case you were lucky with the valve guide issue, sooner or later you would end up with a timing belt failure and a bunch of bent valves which would have been way more expensive to fix...

I have no idea on the legaltity of parts that come from a stat write off, other than to point out there is no way you, any buyer, any engineer or inspector would know a part came from a stat write off.

You can't give up on an GTR until you've done more engines than you have fingers.

Assuming it is an MLS and has only been on there a short time, just put it straight back on. The gasket will take up any imperfection. I've done this more times than I would like with no problem

hell of a thing not to work out of the box. makes you wonder if it is a wiring issue in the car with an intermittent break...

that sucks, long walk home!

good call, much better fixing the cause than chasing symptoms

Thanks for posting up the outcome, never seen that before but it all adds to the knowledge base on here.

Just on that, great tyres like semi slicks are probably the best upgrade for braking you can do....far less braking needed and you are going faster overall anyway.

Agreed...I'd expect way more than that....make sure they know it's a pusher or there might be a surprise bill involved.

Sorry, I should add, cheapest and quickest way by far would be to go there with a trailer and pick it up

I don't really have any suggestion about the first, but since you said it is a rolling shell and therefore not running it will be eye watering to get it from Darwin to Perth; I guess you will need someone you trust to load it into a container and strap if down properly, then ship from there to Perth. Most likely that will involve trucks and both ends and rail in between (if you guys have had your rail reconnected to the rest of Oz by then)

Well good to hear it is a very simple problem and reasonably easy and cheap fix.

I run R34 GTR wheels on mine (18x9 +30). They fit perfect at the front but a little proud of the guards at the rear. Seems like 9.5 +27 would fit about the same. Obviously it requires a ride height at the rear that doesn't need the wheels to tuck into the guards

was it snowing?

I agree but odd that it was only 1 cylinder with an issue. Do you have wide band o2 on it, and is it running rich? Also, drop the oil and check if it smells fuel-ly And, like BK said a compression test will tell a lot too.....If everything seems OK but compression is low it is likely just the rings it may not be too late. Get it on a dyno and load it up hard for 30 min, full load at varying rpm

sounds like good advice for street use

With respect, if you can get more power our of colder intake air than the heat pump takes to drive, lots of racing classes would be doing it. Also, while I'm feeling a bit ranty, you don't get "4kw" of heating or cooling power for 1kw input on a heatpump. You get 1kw. It's just that a radiator is only 25% efficient as a heater. Someone in marketing just decided to compare an apple to an orange

Umm yes, so with the relay out and headlight switch on take a multimeter and probe the 2 opposite sockets for 12v and earth. One of the other should have 12v (or perhaps earth, but not nothing) and the 4th will have continuity to one of the pins on the headlight plug. If that is not all OK, you have a wiring issue below the relay.