Duncan

Great to see. Obviously the price to make that worthwhile will be through the roof, but making them by hand is really not a possibility.

Valve stem seals are a valid reason for oil use and smoking once the exhaust is warm, mostly at idle (and at back off, but that is harder to spot)

I'd check that the earth strap between the chassis and block is good (or check resistance between the block and chassis, should be basically 0)

Any possibility you put the pressure and return fuel lines the wrong way around? If the pressure line is connected to the fuel pressure regulator instead of the fuel rail you will get no fuel in the rail when the pump runs

First up, Nissan didn't use 2 washers on the oil inlet which is the clue that it has all been apart previously and you may not be looking at factory washers anyway. To work out if your 1.3mm washers are OK (I guess so), measure 2 washers + the banjo and subtract the length of the banjo bolt under the head to the end of the thread. As long the answer (ie, how far the bolt will go into the housing) is at least the same as the diameter of the bolt you are all good, probably even a little less is OK as these are hollow bolts anyway.

You will be fine without the booster, it is one of those things that nissan over-engineered on the GTR. Murray did mean that box and the looped clutch line, because again it is not required and does not improve things (in fact, it will make the new setup almost impossible to bleed as it traps air because it is horizontal not vertical). The damage on your booster is due to the clutch master leaking brake fluid onto it, and it does look like the slave is also leaking. The booster damage is probably just cosmetic because if the booster was leaking you would notice poor/inconsistent clutch pedal feel and/or poor idle in the motor. So, take the booster off, clean and paint it and reinstall, buy a new master and slave cylinder with a new braided line between the two and you will have another 30 years of trouble free clutching.

umm yep. I scrapped a few GTRs over the years after parting them, although never an aussie one

The hood is where I grew up. The only cars there had been set on fire. On topic, good luck and keep this updated, you've got a lot of work ahead!

I won't mention this may have been discussed here in the last 20 years. What use is your car, just regular street driving? Does your gearbox work well or crunch a bit on quick shifts? Are the gearbox and diff standard and original?

Electric AC is common I think, pretty much every Hybrid or BEV needs it

So, it's been a really long time since any update, but that is mostly because it took a long time to straighten. I think the smash repair shop did a great job considering what I gave them and the difficulty getting new parts. Kel likes to call the car Buttercup, but I think "Cross Eyed Mary" is more appropriate these days with the headlights, despite the shop's best efforts Very little sign that the whole rear quarter, boot, bumper etc was replaced, massive job to get her back in the shape. Still a fair bit to do from here, clean down everything from the repair shop dust, interior back in, assemble new engine and chuck it in, the go on a rally. Not sure what the next one will be, we've missed Snowy River this weekend

So, any hint about which country or even state you are in?

looks and sounds great, and I'm glad you weren't going easy on a borrowed engine

Right-o. I think you could get the same look with carbon look vinyl wrap

Can I clarify, what would a "removal kit" include? There are lots of R34s without rear seats

I'm sure there is some older threads about this, but I expect that the guards and indicators are wider on GTR than GTST, so it won't match up. If I remember correctly there were aftermarket "GTR style" front bars made for GTST which would be a better way to go, or change the guards/indicators as well if you can get them

Sounds like you 've had a bad run there, I've never seen paint damaged like that

good call

neutral switch to the rear, reverse switch to the front that other cover where the breather support goes though, you need to confirm what goes there. CH-80 in the GTR manual suggests there should be a spring and interlock ball in there, if so you need to confirm and put them in there.

Good idea to check those flanges, is there enough meat to get them milled flat again? You don't need issues with the manifolds sealing once everything is in. I've never made a set but I understand the go is to tack the flange to some much heavier steel box or even i beam to ensure it stays straight

That is a good diagram, but it doesn't show where the temp sender is (and it is kind of a moot point since you are looking for rb25 not rb26). It does show the filter is the last thing before the main oil gallery which makes sense, you want the oil to be cleanest when it enters the engine. You are right, the oil warmer is of use in cold climates in the morning, although the alternative is just to go easy until the oil is up to temp (which is of course what you would do anyway), I don't know how much difference it makes in warm up time. The reason I like the relocator kit is that it both gives a great place for oil senders, and lets you move the filter somewhere nice (whether that is for you or a mechanic). You don't need to do an oil cooler at the same time but it makes it easier if you decide to later (you just run the out from the engine to the oil cooler, and the other oil cooler port to the in on the filter mount) An oil sandwich block can also work but has 2 problems compared to relocating. 1 they are generally screw mount (using the oil filter thread) so you need to make sure they are done up tight and stay done up tight. 2 they space the oil filter out (say 20mm? depending on model) which can make it VERY tight for a decent sized oil filter, and for the hand/tools that are changing the oil filter

Sorry, I should add, you may have troubles bedding the rings on cylinder 3 if you have had an injector problem. It is probably worth getting it on a dyno to run the engine in once the injector is sorted as it may never break the glaze on the bore with just street driving

good choice! so, almost certainly injector was stuck open. clean/test or replace injector, problem solved. How was it running BTW? It should have been missfiring with that much fuel in cyl 3

while it sounds like a pain, the best way to address this is probably an adapter on the block and a remote oil filter mount somewhere convenient for oil changes (I put mine upside down near the sump so easy to access underneath and it drains oil straight into an oil pan Like this: https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-filter-relocation-kit-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30 The trickiest bit is that you will have to cut the hose to length and assemble the ends. It is a straightforward job but can seem intimidating first time you do it. If you choose the black instead of silver line all you need is a hacksaw, vice, some imperial spanners and attention to detail. And it is a good opportunity if you want to add an oil cooler as well because you already have everything you need except the cooler itself. Re the oil warmer etc, the RB26 system has the warmer between the block and the filter, and the factory oil temp and pressure sensors is in the warmer's casting according to the manual. I don't physically have one any more to check, but I expect (hope) the oil goes to the sensor before the warmer, it's not much point knowing a temperature different to what it is at the actual engine components.

As long as the sender is in the oil path to the interwarmer, its all good. Any properly designed sandwich block should work that way. I used a t piece initially (because easy) but wasn't happy I was getting accurate results. My current setup has it in the oil thermostat block, pressure sender goes there too.