Duncan

Well good to hear it is a very simple problem and reasonably easy and cheap fix.

I run R34 GTR wheels on mine (18x9 +30). They fit perfect at the front but a little proud of the guards at the rear. Seems like 9.5 +27 would fit about the same. Obviously it requires a ride height at the rear that doesn't need the wheels to tuck into the guards

was it snowing?

I agree but odd that it was only 1 cylinder with an issue. Do you have wide band o2 on it, and is it running rich? Also, drop the oil and check if it smells fuel-ly And, like BK said a compression test will tell a lot too.....If everything seems OK but compression is low it is likely just the rings it may not be too late. Get it on a dyno and load it up hard for 30 min, full load at varying rpm

sounds like good advice for street use

With respect, if you can get more power our of colder intake air than the heat pump takes to drive, lots of racing classes would be doing it. Also, while I'm feeling a bit ranty, you don't get "4kw" of heating or cooling power for 1kw input on a heatpump. You get 1kw. It's just that a radiator is only 25% efficient as a heater. Someone in marketing just decided to compare an apple to an orange

Umm yes, so with the relay out and headlight switch on take a multimeter and probe the 2 opposite sockets for 12v and earth. One of the other should have 12v (or perhaps earth, but not nothing) and the 4th will have continuity to one of the pins on the headlight plug. If that is not all OK, you have a wiring issue below the relay.

I've never seen such a thing in the wild....pretty sure they all get thrown away pretty quickly. Certainly the lower box is a resonator to reduce intake noise only.

Any of them are fine for street use. I use DBA 5000 on the race car, they did have some quality problems long back (10+ years) when they first introduced a new design but not since. Again for pads, any "sports" pad would be fine for street use. There are cheaper brands that can be good value. Just keep in mind that you should probably get your discs machined if you change pad brand because you don't know if the pad buildup is compatible between the old and new pads.

I'm not sure why, but it doesn't matter too much. You either want to set the heights even (for street use) or to whatever the corner weighting needs for track use, regardless of where that ends up on the shock itself

I can send you the workshop manual if you pm me your email....it's in japanese but the dash pinout will be in there somewhere. Otherwise and probably easier, these dashes all have quite clear tracks running on the back. You didn't way exactly what you are looking for but if it is the usual indicators, handbrake, highbeam and fuel level for an IC7, they would be pretty easy to trace yourself.

It could also be an earth issue so check the engine block is well earthed to the battery. You said in the first post you changed the battery, right? Did the symptom change at all when you did? You can have them die so they seem to have a full charge but they can't deliver serious current

Have you done many klm with the rears on? I'd expect them to be mega noisey, that's the price of grip....

One describes Kylie songs, and the other breakfast cereal ads. What are you trying to achieve?

Nah, the cops were keen because it was any easy case to make....catch the guys red handed, have traceable evidence of where it was and where it was taken. Even so, the guy apparently didn't have any idea about how our trailer ended up beside his house with his trailer's plates on it I think having a separate battery to the vehicle is 100% required because connecting the car battery is easy and obvious. And the one I posted up just communicates by SMS which is low tech but means you don't need any data on the sim, much easier

Welcome to SAU...got any pics?

There weren't a lot of options when I first put one is something but I think there are many more these days...in fact my original was so old it was 2g and I had to move to 3g when they shut the old network down....so maybe look for a 4g compatible option (actually, thanks to google for lols, I found the original link https://campertrailers.org/cca_vehicle_tracker.htm) The supercheap one looks surprisingly legit https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/gator-gps-vehicle-tracker-and-sim-card-gtkpro2/614216.html They are also on ebay, you can get them with video in as well so you can set a forward facing camera that takes video of the number plate of the car towing your trailer away and sends it to you. Something like this can be setup to lock the electric brakes remotely too https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181668781043?hash=item2a4c4d9bf3:g:a2UAAOSwYuZarOxw They use SMS to send google maps links on request or when the geofence area is left, pretty easy. I use an aldi prepaid sim that is about $20 a year.

agreed, a 12 point should get it....what a PITA to put on there.....

I've got 5 character NSW plates on the stagea and that fits OK. On the other cars I took a little off either side on the linisher although an angle grinder would also work...just keep it even and make sure all letters are clearly visible and there should be no reason to have an issue.

yeah that is not ideal and won't be cheap to fix whatever the issue. A cylinder with no compression is probably a valve that is not closing as opposed to a bottom end issue like broken ring lands. You won't need a new head as the parts in it are individually serviceable, although a good used head might be cheapest if you can find one

Yep, japanese rear bar cutouts don't fit Australian standard number plates. You need to bend/cut/space it out to fit.

good tip, thanks. As it happens I am there tomorrow picking up some front bearings so I think I better add to the order...

dammit, turns out I had the same problem with a replacement indicator on mine too. Looks like I need to talk to Just Jap

GPS/GSM trackers are cheap and easy to install. I had one in my car trailer when it was stolen, when we woke up the next morning and found it gone, 5 min later the cops were on the way to its "new" home. They ended up staking it out for a few days to gather evidence before returning the trailer in good condition. Of course, they can be found and removed but they are a pretty easy way to start....if the tracker is not removed when the car is first taken you can at least see where it went until it was removed, and you can get notified that it moved in the first place (geo fencing)

yup. somewhere someone still has a pair of standard cams I had with them for measuring