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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. You've mentioned A8 a couple of times, what is that about? You can certainly turbo your engine, you just need to understand the turbo oil and water plumbing, intake and exhaust to suit, ECU, injectors etc. Depending on the block it can be harder to do a twin cam conversion because some blocks don't have the machined flat surface for the second tensioner required for that, but it doesn't sound like you were thinking about going that way
  2. Yes, but that's not the point Although, as I guess Neil would say, "If you can't go fast, look good" I think you will have trouble when you have enough caster with the wheel hitting the front bumper at full compression as you turn lock to lock. Flares can cover up whatever butchery is required to clear that
  3. I don't know about S chassis with strut fronts, but on r chassis longer LCAs is the best way to increase camber since it doesn't decrease track and put more pressure on the upper arm. A miss is as good as a mile to the shock, as long as you have the tyre size you are looking for. I'd just put flares on the front if you can. You need to make sure you have lock to lock clearance at full compression in the front
  4. You're keen. It looks like whatever that is has a rubber grommet at the bottom that comes inwards. Get behind the rubber lip with a broad bladed screwdriver and it should pop inwards
  5. Sorry it's been a long time since my stagea had the cross over inlet But yes I'd start with the car idling and unplug each coil in turn. If the revs don't drop the coil is not firing properly. You might also find one or more coil pack look plugs loose or cracked. But that test isn't a guarantee it is not a spark problem because it might have enough power to fire at idle, but not under boost When you don't know the car or it's service history, new spark plugs are an easy starting point too
  6. And I guess the other question would be does it drive OK now, or when it is a little warmer. It is possible the standard ECU is just unhappy with the amount of air it got through the combination of the exhaust and being cold, the stagea ECU in particular is not very tolerant of mods. Otherwise, it could be any of the billion usual issues with a 25 year old car that has probably been around the block once or twice. Could be fuel pump (or filter) as suggested above. Could be fouled spark plugs. Could be dying coil packs, coil pack loom or even just poorly seated coil pack connectors. Could be the CAS. Could be a boost leak. Could be the AFM.....all just a bit hard to guess from here. That pop from the exhaust was just that it was either running very rich or misfiring (which also results in burned fuel)
  7. was it cold, and is it modified at all? It's midwinter, right? cold air combined with mild mods on a standard ECU could be the problem
  8. Buy a fuga hybrid instead for that use. Faster, cheaper, much more refined.
  9. Agreed...they all start to show their age from about there. Not to say the engine is toast, just that all of the clearances and wear are starting to have an effect and a thicker oil can help. An easy way to tell you need thicker oil in an older engine is that your are using it between oil changes. Could be rings, could be valve stem seals but either way going up one viscosity will likely help. You might also note lower oil pressure if you keep a close eye on it, particularly at idle I think most modern performance engines have tight tolerances and expect 0w30 or 5w30 which will be fine for the first 50-100,000klm, but again they will start to burn it after that
  10. Well, welcome to the forums and it would be great to see a body restoration build thread on here. I would have thought that if the car was originally a GTST you would want at an rb25det in it, depending on your level of commitment to original it could be a the original r33 series or a NEO from a 34. It will be a slug with an RB20DE
  11. Sorry thought you might have been from Canada (no location on your profile)....yes in NSW i'd use 10w40 or potentially 10w50
  12. As well as klm on the motor consideration, how hot/cold does it get where you are? 5w or 10w is fine, although 5w is better if you get cold starts 30 is a little thin for a higher klm engine, 40 or 50 would be better. I don't think there is any practical difference between semi of full synthetic for a road car. Just change it every 10,000klm or even better every 5,000klm
  13. Yes, that is true that a ball bearing turbo is likely to take that treatment better than a thrust bearing turbo (particularly compared to some of the old 270o thrust bearing turbos). I guess you don't need anyone to tell you it's not ideal either way though
  14. Well, there is a reason TE37 (and their copies) have been popular on skylines over the years. They have the best brake clearance which helped back when 18" was crazy large. I know this isn't too helpful...but there is really no way to ensure a wheel will fit when it is close without trial fitting. Width and offset are a guide to getting the tyre to fit within the guards, but even then the width of the tyre and aspect ratio vary between manufacturers and models For caliper clearance, as you've discovered it comes down to design of the inside of the wheel. Offset can be a guide for that because wheels with a lot of "dish" generally sacrifice room for brakes. Some of the Japanese rims have options which provide more or less brake clearance but again it would not be a guarantee they fit. Generally, forged wheels have more internal clearance than cast My suggestion is stay with the classic wheels on your classic car. If you are determined to change going up a size will almost certainly fix the problem unless you choose low offset wheels.
  15. do it man, throw a brick through it the night before
  16. Good question, I've never really looked into it but isn't there a problem with aftermarket ECUs and Direct Injection? You may need to look into remapping the standard one.
  17. I'd expect paperwork as on ongoing record of the work done to my car, doesn't seem like an unreasonable ask.
  18. Funny story The above added ventilation has increased my IAT by 5°c and my coolant, which typically sits at about 90°c, was at 97°c After doing some hasty wool tuft testing, it seems kow when at speeds over 40kph the reverse cowl works very well at sucking in air, pressurising the engine compartment, and reducing the efficiency of radiator stack quite well I assume my trans temps would have raised as well as the air to oil trans coolers efficiency would have been effected as well So, lucky I have the spare bonnet that will be getting the frame modified to give me some clearance Marks bad idea #943: Fitting a reverse cowl scoop LOL 🤯 lol pics of driving around with wools stuck to the car or it didn't happen
  19. Can you put up a pic of your setup? I don't understand why the balancer should turn due to a puller (normally the pushing rod for the balancer has a cap that rotates freely on the shaft) Either way, even if you don't have an assistant (and assuming you don't have a flywheel lock tool) you just need a bolt on the rear of the motor, a pry bar between the bolt and the flywheel ring gear, and a long arm...
  20. So the FCD is cheapest way to address your immediate problem (other than putting the original exhaust back on) but it has a narrow range that it can help with. You should still probably run in on the dyno after install to be certain everything is OK so that is another couple of hundred. I picked up about 20kw back in the day when I put the FCD on with 3psi extra boost (10 instead of 7psi) An SAFC is a much more flexible choice than a FCD and it is probably able to deal with all the changes you listed. Again, you really need to set it up on a dyno to be sure everything is safe and it will take a little longer because there is more the set up. But, through 20 years of doing this and watching other people doing this...I can say 99% once you have done all your current plans, you will put on a bigger turbo, need bigger injectors and a new (or deleted) air flow meter and at that point you need an ECU. I have a Link on my Stagea and Haltech on the GTR, the Link does everything a street car needs and is cheaper (actually for that matter a PowerFC is way cheaper than either and does everything most people need) - but if you are going this route what really matters is what your tuner prefers because their time to tune something they are not familiar with will cost way more than any difference in purchase price
  21. No idea, I don't have any around. But a quick search says it is no good for the paint's clear coat so probably not a good choice
  22. brake cleaner/thinners and rags should get the rest
  23. Yep, so the stageas are particularly sensitive to extra airflow, it's not exactly a boost cut as such but the factory ECU has a very narrow band of what it expects and once you go outside that it starts running very rich and retards the timing to protect the motor from what it thinks is some sort of issue. Shame because Stageas can do with a bit of extra go. You do have options like an HKS Fuel Cut Defender (that is where i started with mine), but realistically if you are going to modify a stagea you need to change the ECU early in the piece because it is very sensitive and you will probably go backwards from everything you listed above without one. I'd suggest saving for a Link or Haltech before you change anything else. Even now you are probably making less power, not more, than factory.
  24. In that case, your whole issue could just be fouled plugs. I'd pull and replace them before worrying about anything else
  25. Are you sure you have the right spark plugs and coil packs? Since they are the thing you changed immediately before it wouldn't start. Also, depending what you unplugged, make sure everything is seated properly and any grounds were bolted back down again too. I'm not certain about the 34 gtt setup, but assuming it is the same as earlier models you should find a pair of relays at the passenger kick panel, one for the ECU and one for the ignitiion. You should hear/feel them both click when the key is turned to ignition, and off again when the key is turned back to ACC (the ignition relay turns off immediately, the ECU relay turns off after a couple of second)
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