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Everything posted by Duncan
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Going for 500+hp, need advice
Duncan replied to The Skyline Guy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Personal opinion but I think the days of putting singles on GTRs is over for most people. They have clearly become a classic/collector's car rather than something where you are looking for a very fast daily driver (plus, most of the GTRs with singles live in a garage on stands anyway). A set of old fashioned -7 or -9 twins and keeping the standard intake piping as mush as possible is they appropriate way these days. -
V35 Won't Start after radio removal?
Duncan replied to The_Furox's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
That looks like a really dead battery. Do you have a multimeter to check the voltage between the battery terminals with the car off? If it is good, I'd be looking for bad earth or main power connections from the battery -
Going for 500+hp, need advice
Duncan replied to The Skyline Guy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Thanks for the note about the oil restrictor, that is an important difference too. Also, it is a good time to change the factory dump pipes to something larger at the same time. -
R33 Front Fuse Box Terminals
Duncan replied to Robospecta's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I can't confirm the connector to buy separately and I guess you mean load not negative for the side you are trying to add. Having said that, groups of fuses will unclip from the main holder. You can see the little tabs in your first pic, eg to the left of the left hand 15A fuse - you need to flick all of them out then pull the section out of the frame. If you can't get every clip at the same time (lots of little screwdrivers...) you need to start at one end with a couple of tabs and pull the holder up far enough to get past the clips, then hold it up and move to the next set. That will get the fuse holder out of the frame, but you may ind it can't come far due to wire lengths at the rear. From behind, you will see how to depin the fuses -
Effort required to replace heater and coolant hoses on GTR R33?
Duncan replied to sonic99's topic in General Maintenance
No I'm sorry, I should have quoted the post I was responding to! -
good call...you don't need them often but they are invaluable when you do
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Going for 500+hp, need advice
Duncan replied to The Skyline Guy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
They are bolt on, with the exception of the oil drain - adapters are readily available. -
Effort required to replace heater and coolant hoses on GTR R33?
Duncan replied to sonic99's topic in General Maintenance
I was simply saying that they aren't going to leave your old hoses on and show you some they took off another 33 gtr that had gone through there. -
Going for 500+hp, need advice
Duncan replied to The Skyline Guy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
speaking of which, we just watched deathproof on the weekend. also on topic, oil pressure is affected by main bearing clearances just as much as the oil pump. Ultimately all of those aftermarket vendors just took OEM solutions from other cars and applied them to RB applications. Only 1% of cars out there actually need more than a standard or n1 pump on a long nose crank anyway -
Restoring R32 ECU with Mines tune?
Duncan replied to weikleenget's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
To answer directly, no, I don't know how they physically achieved the reflash of the ECU. However, the change in tune from factory is minor and unlikely to be your issue. If it is misfiring as it comes on boost it is likely to be some issue other than the tune. What boost is it hitting just before it starts to cut out (might be overboosting due to a boost control issue), or perhaps just an air leak somewhere. -
Going for 500+hp, need advice
Duncan replied to The Skyline Guy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
To be fair, even the biggest aftermarket suppliers do only a fraction of the engineering and testing of Nissan OEM, and they have to do so without understanding every other component that their aftermarket stuff will be used with. -
Firstly, no I have no direct experience with these water pumps. Having said that for track/race use with sustained RPM, I would never be looking for more blades and more flow. Consider a street car probably has 1500rpm average and a race car 5000rpm+ average I run the N1 pump with greddy oversize pulley and water temps are good, even on long runs on hot days.
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Effort required to replace heater and coolant hoses on GTR R33?
Duncan replied to sonic99's topic in General Maintenance
They are your parts, so you might get a strange look but it's a valid request. I've known some places in the past that keep and show all the parts they remove to build trust (not that most people would know if it actually came off your car, I guess you are safe with GTR heater hoses...) -
yeah sadly, looks good to me to. Do you have a decent pic of where the balancer was when you checked or did you find TDC through cylinder 1? If all 3 marks line up properly the timing is right. You can't be less than a tooth out, the belt has fixed teeth with fixed spacing. You can get a feeling for whether the tension is right with the cover off, you should get a cm or 2 but no more at the middle of the longest belt run I can't see anywhere you said which car it is but I understand all the GTST are 15o base timing and you said you checked that with a lead on 1 (important because if you use the loop at the rear of the motor, some guns read double timing which means 22 could actually be 11...)
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I know you said you went back and the shop checked it again, but 99% this is a timing belt alignment issue. Perhaps they just made the same mistake twice because they are not familiar with the car Unfortunately it's tricky to get pics with the right angles to check, so maybe just get another shop to have a look at the car. It could also be a big air leak or fuel pressure issue (or a million other things) but what you are describing with the popping, running OK under low but not high load and just no zoom all point to badly retarded timing
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The current system is more painful than the previous one but still possible, I've got it on my GTR but these days you need an annual inspection by one of very few inspectors. Historical/Club rego is a much better choice if you qualify
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Yep, and if they don't break it, get it put back in again before the car leaves. Windscreens are a pain to transport safely
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glass out is best done by mobile windscreen guy, even then 50% chance they will break it.
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Hey, I just fixed your typo
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He is always willing to help out, comes at a price though
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well my thinking is they make a big difference to feel and predictability when they are right, and it is hard to impossible to change on the car. Given it's for track use I'd take the time and money to do them while it's apart to save having to chase some weird handling issue in the future
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you definitely want to do them now, particularly the toe/hicas one. If you aren't getting a 20t press try local shop to push them out
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your friend's a drug dealer? actually I said the same to the neighbour's kid when he turned up in one. went down like a lead balloon. turned out he was.