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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. They are your parts, so you might get a strange look but it's a valid request. I've known some places in the past that keep and show all the parts they remove to build trust (not that most people would know if it actually came off your car, I guess you are safe with GTR heater hoses...)
  2. yeah sadly, looks good to me to. Do you have a decent pic of where the balancer was when you checked or did you find TDC through cylinder 1? If all 3 marks line up properly the timing is right. You can't be less than a tooth out, the belt has fixed teeth with fixed spacing. You can get a feeling for whether the tension is right with the cover off, you should get a cm or 2 but no more at the middle of the longest belt run I can't see anywhere you said which car it is but I understand all the GTST are 15o base timing and you said you checked that with a lead on 1 (important because if you use the loop at the rear of the motor, some guns read double timing which means 22 could actually be 11...)
  3. Thanks for coming back with the solution, good to know it happens sometimes
  4. I know you said you went back and the shop checked it again, but 99% this is a timing belt alignment issue. Perhaps they just made the same mistake twice because they are not familiar with the car Unfortunately it's tricky to get pics with the right angles to check, so maybe just get another shop to have a look at the car. It could also be a big air leak or fuel pressure issue (or a million other things) but what you are describing with the popping, running OK under low but not high load and just no zoom all point to badly retarded timing
  5. The current system is more painful than the previous one but still possible, I've got it on my GTR but these days you need an annual inspection by one of very few inspectors. Historical/Club rego is a much better choice if you qualify
  6. Yep, and if they don't break it, get it put back in again before the car leaves. Windscreens are a pain to transport safely
  7. glass out is best done by mobile windscreen guy, even then 50% chance they will break it.
  8. Hey, I just fixed your typo
  9. He is always willing to help out, comes at a price though
  10. well my thinking is they make a big difference to feel and predictability when they are right, and it is hard to impossible to change on the car. Given it's for track use I'd take the time and money to do them while it's apart to save having to chase some weird handling issue in the future
  11. you definitely want to do them now, particularly the toe/hicas one. If you aren't getting a 20t press try local shop to push them out
  12. your friend's a drug dealer? actually I said the same to the neighbour's kid when he turned up in one. went down like a lead balloon. turned out he was.
  13. yes sorry to say, replacing all coolant hoses is a pain with lots of parts and probably lots of old, seized clamps, it would take a few hours
  14. jeebus mate, look after yourself....none of us are backwards cap kids in r33 gtst s anymore Plus, I'd really miss your stories about buying a car to leave it stock...
  15. They don't survive abuse bwith big power and a lot of AWD, but 285kw should not be an issue. I'd be looking for any sloppyiness between the driveshaft at the xfer case all the way to the front hubs, I think something is moving that is causing additional shock and the diff is the weak link
  16. well, vk56 is the go but I guess it is kind of a v8 sort of
  17. Welcome to SAU! Is Berra a typo and you meant Barra, ie the engine in most taxis in Australia? If so, I think there has been a couple of people with R chassis swaps, but have you checked physical space in the z engine bay as they are a very long motor?
  18. yeah it's nice for the water to go straight back where you source it...have a look at solar pumps and it could run any time the sun is up without needing to keep an eye on it
  19. What bloody summer, it's 1o here this morning. I knew Global Warming was a conspiracy to reset the world economy by skinsuit wearing lizard people who unleashed covid via the 5g towers Also....it's not instagram unless you show us pics of your welds. I somehow forgot to take any pics of the repairs I did to the slasher a couple of weeks ago
  20. do you have any way to get a fuel pressure gauge on the system? my guess is the pump is simply dying. if you don't have something any decent mechanic should be able to check static fuel pressure for you. re releasing pressure when you open the cap, this is normal and fine. The cap should be vented to allow both air in as the tank empties and air out if the tank heats up and the fuel expands, which you might notice most during spring as the weather gets warmer (not that I know if it is spring where you are, there is no location on your profile :))
  21. Also, is it a standard ECU or aftermarket, and if standard do you have some way to read the consult port?
  22. There are either 1 or 2 blue relays there depending on build date, the first of them turns the ECU on (or off) and the other if present is for the coils. As you have no fuel pressure, no spark that implies no ECU as the next step to look at. But I've jumped well ahead, first you need to check all fuses in next to the battery, and also at the driver's knee. Very possible something important was moved during the work then shorted on your trip home blowing the fuse. Also check all connections are present at the battery
  23. Good rant, will drop by again
  24. Did you start the car when you picked it up, or was it already running. And when you turn the key in the ignition do the red lights come on in the dash (and for bonus question, if you listen near the passenger footwell can you hear a relay turn on when you turn the key to ignition and off about 5 seconds after you turn it back to ACC.
  25. Yeah oil pressure will be a good guide for a bearing issue, but the noise getting worse when reving is a pretty clear indicator of a big end bearing issue. Still, if you think it is front of engine, the top timing cover can be removed and you can still run the engine, so that is worth a try. There are bearings under there for the timing belt idler and tensioner so it is not impossible Either way, the less you run the engine, the less further damage occurs.
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