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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. That is a great outcome considering the easy mods. Do you have single or dual intakes? I'm waiting for the uprev guys to release the update to support HY51 and will then start with something similar, I had assumed I would need to address the headers as well but you've got good results without that hassle
  2. Are you trying to replace the steering wheel or get the horn working? If only the latter you can just add a momentary switch somewhere to connect the 2 horn wires to the steering wheel. It also looks like you've lost your HICAS steering wheel angle sensor but perhaps HICAS is disonnected
  3. I'll bet the issue in the switch itself.
  4. Possibly...there were differences across R33 air cons and I'm not sure what they were. Late R33 and Stagea are *apparently* the same. The mounting is the same, the wiring is either the same or interchangeable (1 wire) but the fittings to the car can vary. I'm sure others know better than me. You can confirm the exact part# using your VIN through FAST or parts websites.
  5. I recently went through this with my w34 stagea and was unable to find new genuine or aftermarket options. I ended up taking a punt and buying 2 used ones off yahoo japan, and the first one I fit worked so I have a suspect spare. I suspect AC compressors are going to become one of those impossible to find parts over the next few years until someone works out a non genuine alternative including mounting
  6. sorry, I should add....yes the relay is an easy test/fix because you can just steal one form anywhere else, swap in and flick the headlights. but also be aware it is getting pretty common for these switches to fail, the full current runs through the switch and they have 30 years of use on them. They are available brand new from nissan
  7. Yes, the lows go off when hi is on, either stalk back or stalk forward.
  8. Yes, with the original factory wiring, when the Hi comes on the Low goes off. And yes, the flash function (stalk back) uses the brown relay in the engine bay (can't remember off the top of my head if it has a different fuse, but I don't think so). The hi on function (stalk forward) just uses the switch and no relay is involved
  9. I can't agree with that; there is nothing wrong with a PowerFC's ability to meet the needs of 95% of cars. Why spend a couple of thousand on an ECU and tune when the PFC can do the job fine While you should get a workshop to look at it, the issue is much more likely to be electrical or mechanical than an issue with the tune.
  10. I've got a Hardrace rear inner lower control arm bush and a Just Jap sump baffle?
  11. Not in our experience. In our current place we need to optimise for morning sun in winter (heater) and afternoon (AC) in summer. Pretty much all year round in the middle of the day to mid afternoon the battery is full and we are getting 5c to export which is a waste of time
  12. Definitely write it off. In an unrelated point, I'll give you $20 each for the tail lights, boot and rear bumper
  13. Damn straight....the machine shop should do it but I always treat it as though they haven't.... Just one thing to add to the approach above. When you put the head on, the crank should be at (or just before) TDC, and the cams should also be set for TDC. You can determine that from the pin on the front of the cams or if necessary just put the cams gears on temporarily. Once the backing plates / timing covers are in place it is then ready for timing belt straight away
  14. I totally agree, I think an OBD display is a good thing to keep an eye on "stuff". I run an informeter in the fuga, to the left of the factory screen I run one in the Titan too, and in that case I added a trans temp sensor in the line to the oil cooler to understand how that is going when towing on hot days in addition to the built in data. In the stagea I run a gaugeART to the Link, it fun to watch the whoosh appear.
  15. When you say ""not a puff" do you mean it cranks but doesn't try to fire? I'd be checking the ECU has power, since it is back to stock can you plug a consult in to check? Or even just listen for the ECCS relay clicking in the passenger footwell as a start.
  16. Looks legit, not sure why it wouldn't be, they were extremely common. Historically a dash's value was determined by the klm it showed, not nissan vs nismo (nismo one is less practical as the increments are twice as close together = twice as hard to read). These days Americans want them, so probably put it up for sale at 2,500 firm + postage.
  17. It's caster that makes the issue with the upper arm geometry more obvious and flogs out the bushes sooner. Even for race use I ended up backing out some caster to stop having to replace upper bushes every event
  18. Looks good, I've got the same insulation in the garage (sans tape) and it is the warmest building on the property. I've resisted putting a wood burner in the work shed because it is kind of a statement that I'd rather spend hours out there at night than back in the house...they are excellent/cheap but not quick to get up to temp....instead I just freeze my arse off all day and slink back into the house before it gets too cold at night
  19. Turns out most of Sydney can't go to a shop at the moment either.
  20. 120mm for a standard r32 gtr or gtst power steer pulley.
  21. no, no issues. you aren't really running 2 pumps when they are lift + main, and you aren't intending to use the stock wiring so no issue there either. It will circulate way more fuel than you need so the fuel may get warm, but it's not a motorsport application so you will never notice.
  22. It's hard to advise what you should/could do without knowing your plans/power targets.
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