Duncan

It's hard to advise what you should/could do without knowing your plans/power targets.

you're wrong on this one GTSBoy, 350z sounds awesome, particularly with a pod.

My understanding is the subframe and for that matter strut area, is totally different between 2wd and 4wd so I don't think this will help you.

right, so the issue is ability to get response/ area under the power curve from the engine, not peak power then? it does sounds like some sort of engine swap for more capacity or efficiency will be required to sort that unfortunately. The easiest path with that chassis is a larger capacity bottom end from another RB, RB30 is a potential or possibly RD28 (although that is much heavier). Bit trickier, perhaps VK45DD or DE from Q45 would be a good choice for torque and economy while still easily making the target power, it appears it can fit OK. Will need a bellhousing to suit and gearbox that ca take the torque. Or something VQ35/7xx would get you there too.

Welcome Erling, it sounds like your car has been on quite an unusual journey. Also, a thrust bearing failure is not a common issue; do you know if there was any contributing factor?

A couple of issues too The bluetooth sucks. It works fine, but you have to pair phone and audio separately, and it does not switch automatically between paired phones. So, if Kel has been driving and I jump in, I need to connect my phone for both phone and audio through the menus. I guess it was cutting edge in 2013 but today its a pain Also (to my surprise!) the mid undertray is not positively affixed at the front. It is designed with 2 tabs that sit on the cross member, and 2 bolts at the rear. In theory that is all fine and it hasn't come out at speed, but I crossed the weir on the road home last week with about 250mm of water in it, the water got above the undertray and pulled it down, leaving me rolling around under the car on a cold dark night to try and free it up. I will replace it but I'll work out a way to hold the front in place better (and remember that the Fuga can't go where the Titan can!) In other unfortunate news, a youngish skippy made a bad life choice when I was driving out the other day. I did miss him the first time, but when he saw armco on the other side he turned around and came back. Skippy didn't make it and I have a new front bar coming overnight from japan (ok, 12 weeks by sea...). I've been lucky over the years down here, that is the first one I have hit.

So, a couple of updates on the Fuga after 3 months' of driving. Firstly, it has very much grown on me. The drivability around the hybrid features are a bit weird at first, but once you accept/ignore what it's actually doing instead of paying attention/thinking it through all the time, it works fine. Fuel economy has been great for a full size sedan at about 15klm/litre (6.7l/100klm). A couple of features I hadn't noticed initially but are good - the seatbelt has auto retraction which sounds minor or like you never needed it, but in practice it means it always holds properly when you sit down, and pulls out of the way cleanly which is nice. Also, the headlights steer with the front wheels, I didn't really notice at first but as I've been doing more country road at night driving this time of year, it does make a difference. One other unexpected plus, the hybrid works really well for a common use of the car for me. I spend a lot of time travelling to and between clients, and that often means I am working or taking a meeting in the car. With the hybrid you can leave the car on with AC etc running, and the petrol engine is off most of the time which makes it a much more pleasant work environment (often with the Cima on a hot day I'd have to leave it idling for long stretches to keep the interior cool and outside noise out while on meetings)

Front running Early modern cars are outright win fast, R35 GTR or Liam's R33 for instance Targa changed the rules so the overall winner is declared from GT2, rather than being the fastest car home, because the EM cars were threatening wins

well I guess that makes dropping by the try some plugs difficult and postage may make the whole idea unfeasible. But if you want to see, just measure inner the physical dimensions of the socket and I'll see if I can find the plug. Unsoldering the socket from the PCB and replacing with a flying lea may still be easier and cheaper, if you aren't confident an electronics tech could surely do it. That is how the TV input on my cima was done because I didn't have the plug

Assuming you don't need the loom as well, I probably have a couple of them available as I don't use them on the race car, however, I don't know which unused plug it would be Where are you (location on profile would help)?

Guess it made it from QLD....but I missed why you need a different shell, is it just a year of manufacture problem?

wow, glad I subscribed to this 10 years ago!

I sure change the oil in my stagea at 5000klm...but it has a bit more whoosh than stock. But yes, for more daily use I would (and do) change oil and filter at 10,000

Glad the bulbs are working, and I guess that is why we have a location field on the profile; to help people provider better quality advice!

good work getting it all sorted yourself!

Have a good look around the bulb wiring and the wiring just inside the car, there was a time when australian compliance required single brake lights each side so compliers would just cut the wire. Re the climate and middle cluster lights, I can only agree that you need to spend some quality time with the console apart and a multimeter...even better if you can get the wiring for the plugs to the modules. Keep in mind it may just be multiple globes out too.

indeed it does include that step, it even shows a gender non-specific pair of hands carefully tapping it out with a ball peen hammer, and it includes the warning I said above

um yes CH-86 onwards covers this, the only tricky part really is to not drop the roll pin into the transfer case. BTW are you planning to convert the box to pull clutch or the car to push?

I think a few companies offer the service, you need pay in yen and have a japanese shipping address so you need a freight forwarder/broker. I use Jesse Streeter as he can also check non auction sources, and I think Import Monster have an english-ish website for yahoo

FAST is some old windows software by Nissan, and I think there are some website alternatives these days but I'm stuck in the past. ER33-005985 comes up as:

surely they aren't just lying around...time for a custom flywheel. BTW, care to share what a os giken rb30 is worth?

Mark follows the silicone valley "Fail Hard, Fail Fast" mantra

Welcome to the forums! It will help if you add location to your profile as different parts/specialists are available in different places. If you want to know more about the factory spec of your car, Nissan's parts software FAST has the original details of how it left the factory but we will need the japaneses VIN from the firewall, it will be something like ER33-xxxxxx. You said you need to get the car roadwrothy, what is wrong that needs to be addressed? And, in most cases turbo and manual conversions don't make financial sense, although that could be changing as the price of many of these cars are going up, not down, these days....

Can I just add, this massively shits me as well. We are putting on heat pump hot water in the new house, but almost every washer only has cold input plus a built in resistive heater. That is neither cheaper for them nor more efficient for me.

I'm afraid that is only a non-genuine remote, not the EJ1 itself