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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. I recently went through this with my w34 stagea and was unable to find new genuine or aftermarket options. I ended up taking a punt and buying 2 used ones off yahoo japan, and the first one I fit worked so I have a suspect spare. I suspect AC compressors are going to become one of those impossible to find parts over the next few years until someone works out a non genuine alternative including mounting
  2. sorry, I should add....yes the relay is an easy test/fix because you can just steal one form anywhere else, swap in and flick the headlights. but also be aware it is getting pretty common for these switches to fail, the full current runs through the switch and they have 30 years of use on them. They are available brand new from nissan
  3. Yes, the lows go off when hi is on, either stalk back or stalk forward.
  4. Yes, with the original factory wiring, when the Hi comes on the Low goes off. And yes, the flash function (stalk back) uses the brown relay in the engine bay (can't remember off the top of my head if it has a different fuse, but I don't think so). The hi on function (stalk forward) just uses the switch and no relay is involved
  5. I can't agree with that; there is nothing wrong with a PowerFC's ability to meet the needs of 95% of cars. Why spend a couple of thousand on an ECU and tune when the PFC can do the job fine While you should get a workshop to look at it, the issue is much more likely to be electrical or mechanical than an issue with the tune.
  6. I've got a Hardrace rear inner lower control arm bush and a Just Jap sump baffle?
  7. Not in our experience. In our current place we need to optimise for morning sun in winter (heater) and afternoon (AC) in summer. Pretty much all year round in the middle of the day to mid afternoon the battery is full and we are getting 5c to export which is a waste of time
  8. Definitely write it off. In an unrelated point, I'll give you $20 each for the tail lights, boot and rear bumper
  9. Damn straight....the machine shop should do it but I always treat it as though they haven't.... Just one thing to add to the approach above. When you put the head on, the crank should be at (or just before) TDC, and the cams should also be set for TDC. You can determine that from the pin on the front of the cams or if necessary just put the cams gears on temporarily. Once the backing plates / timing covers are in place it is then ready for timing belt straight away
  10. I totally agree, I think an OBD display is a good thing to keep an eye on "stuff". I run an informeter in the fuga, to the left of the factory screen I run one in the Titan too, and in that case I added a trans temp sensor in the line to the oil cooler to understand how that is going when towing on hot days in addition to the built in data. In the stagea I run a gaugeART to the Link, it fun to watch the whoosh appear.
  11. When you say ""not a puff" do you mean it cranks but doesn't try to fire? I'd be checking the ECU has power, since it is back to stock can you plug a consult in to check? Or even just listen for the ECCS relay clicking in the passenger footwell as a start.
  12. Looks legit, not sure why it wouldn't be, they were extremely common. Historically a dash's value was determined by the klm it showed, not nissan vs nismo (nismo one is less practical as the increments are twice as close together = twice as hard to read). These days Americans want them, so probably put it up for sale at 2,500 firm + postage.
  13. It's caster that makes the issue with the upper arm geometry more obvious and flogs out the bushes sooner. Even for race use I ended up backing out some caster to stop having to replace upper bushes every event
  14. Looks good, I've got the same insulation in the garage (sans tape) and it is the warmest building on the property. I've resisted putting a wood burner in the work shed because it is kind of a statement that I'd rather spend hours out there at night than back in the house...they are excellent/cheap but not quick to get up to temp....instead I just freeze my arse off all day and slink back into the house before it gets too cold at night
  15. Turns out most of Sydney can't go to a shop at the moment either.
  16. 120mm for a standard r32 gtr or gtst power steer pulley.
  17. no, no issues. you aren't really running 2 pumps when they are lift + main, and you aren't intending to use the stock wiring so no issue there either. It will circulate way more fuel than you need so the fuel may get warm, but it's not a motorsport application so you will never notice.
  18. It's hard to advise what you should/could do without knowing your plans/power targets.
  19. you're wrong on this one GTSBoy, 350z sounds awesome, particularly with a pod.
  20. My understanding is the subframe and for that matter strut area, is totally different between 2wd and 4wd so I don't think this will help you.
  21. right, so the issue is ability to get response/ area under the power curve from the engine, not peak power then? it does sounds like some sort of engine swap for more capacity or efficiency will be required to sort that unfortunately. The easiest path with that chassis is a larger capacity bottom end from another RB, RB30 is a potential or possibly RD28 (although that is much heavier). Bit trickier, perhaps VK45DD or DE from Q45 would be a good choice for torque and economy while still easily making the target power, it appears it can fit OK. Will need a bellhousing to suit and gearbox that ca take the torque. Or something VQ35/7xx would get you there too.
  22. Welcome Erling, it sounds like your car has been on quite an unusual journey. Also, a thrust bearing failure is not a common issue; do you know if there was any contributing factor?
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