Duncan

Does it run to the rear wiper if you follow it? The other option is it could be the drain for the sunroof if you have one

This kind of gets right to the heart of the problem.... my understanding is the R34 diff centre is too large for the R32 sump casing.

It is important you check the ring end gaps before installing. Push each carefully into the bore and check the gap with a feeler gauge. The rings should have the required end gap in the included doco

In my experience, "mechanics" leave stuff loose all the time. At a minimum they should have road tested and noticed all the boost was going missing before giving it back to you.

But, where do you ever come across JIS fasteners? Not in a Nissan thankfully. And those long spanners are nice to use, but they just aren't feasible in most tight locations.

There are clearances listed in the manual for the pins, I've found some tighter and looser in various rebuilds. Either way, lightly tapping them in should be more than enough if you aren't going to check them

Its OK, similar to the Euros which turn on an error light before you get to go fast much, Jeeps will break down before you can go fast enough to hurt yourself.

I run the stuff, have extended breathers and don't have any issues. But I would still double check it is not overfilled, and how did you fill it in the first place?

you should start with the RB25 dyno results thread, 400kw is pretty common these days and choosing the right turbo is the starting point

ahh, so there aren't that many red bogan cruise ships around yeah I got caught out by that flood too, it came unusually quickly and highest we've seen. I was in Sydney on Friday and arrived at the bridge home about 5pm to find it under.....also spent a couple of nights in town waiting for it to settle. New bridge foundations on the left (road would have been about 1m above the flood), current bridge 4m under on the right.. I guess it is one way to have a totally unplanned holiday, good news for clothes and food shops, but kind of bad timing because the motels were all super full because the state champs were on at wakie as well.

I saw a red commodore with one of those dodgy bonnet bulges down in Goulburn today....

Perhaps an intermittent short/break in the wiring loom. When the issue is occurring turn off car and check continuity from coil1 to the ECU. Also, just to confirm my memory, S2 R33 didn't have a separate ignitor on the engine, it is built into each coil, right? I had a nasty but intermittent misfire when my ignitor failed

Surely 9.5 won't fit at the front of a gtst...8 or 8.5 would be max?

@PranK over to you Back in the olden days, an unleaded fuel restrictor had to be fitted into the filler neck to stop you putting leaded fuel in (even though that hasn't been available for about 20 years). Compliers would stick the restrictor in with silicone and it often wasn't fuel safe so they would degrade over time. You can check for all of the fuel sealing issues by parking it in the sun for a few hours, then opening the filler cap. If it doesn't release some pressure you have a leak in the system which could be Fuel cap Filler neck seal/unleaded restrictor Fuel neck to tank Fuel pump lid or seal Carbon cannister system (should seal unless engine is running)

Also, where are you? (no location in your profile) Many Australian imports have badly fitted restrictors in the filler neck that can need resealing over time.

If you have a VIN# we can look it up

No issue with a manual swap done well...and too late to change now but I'd look get pics of the clutch pedal mounting, where the centre console meets the dash, and of course the actual gearbox may have very different klm to the rest of the car

👍 I've got the conversion the Estonian guys on ebay, I guess there are other ways to contact them but all roads probably lead to the same people. I was a bit dubious about sending that much but they were quick and it works perfectly, the only thing I'm not impressed with is the english buttons they supply aren't a great match colourwise to the stock ones I did the install based on the US MY51 Q70 2013 manual, close enough to work out how to pull the console apart without breaking anything and the unit is direct plug in. Some functions are lost like the passenger parking camera and the japanese lady yelling to tell you how to parallel park. Frankly, the frustration for us with the jp menus was since Kel and I share the car, memorising the path to connect audio and then phone every time we change drivers was a pain. I've got a thread on my fuga here:

I've never tried to turn off the status because I find the DTE display helpful, however on the drive today I was able to remove it by pressing the nav's Map button (bottom row, second from right) then a source button on the radio (Aux). I'm sure there are other ways and it depends what you DO want to see

You've pressed the status button, which on the converted system is the left button on the lower row. It switches between distance to empty like you've got, distance/time to arrival if you have nav on and something else I can't remember. I'd recommend the english conversion. I had my Cima on japanese only for the 5 years I ran it but the Fuga is more complex. I don't use the satnav itself of course, just a phone app

450 is a fair bit. I'm running 400awkw through a nismo coppermix twin with no issue, still a little bitey compared to a single plate...

Looks great. I also did a tidy up of the "add a bit here and there" wiring a couple of years back with proper connections, labelling etc and it has been much easier to install and remove, troubleshoot and much more reliable

It's a little late as the back plate is already on, but you can prepack the pump with assembly lube (or even vaseline apparently) to help build pressure quickly on start up too.

Basically, the standard ECU and the IMPUL ECU are effectively locked to a single tune. The ECU works within a set of known parameters, looks at the inputs, processes them and decides what outputs. One (well 6) of the outputs are the fuel injectors and they are fired based on revs, load and some other small adjustments like engine temp, oxygen sensors etc. With an non-programmable ECU, every input and output has to be exactly the way the factory expected, and so does the engine system itself. So, you can't change airflow meter (input), injectors (output) or turbo (engine system/ total airflow). Also, everything has be in good working order, eg the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator need to supply the expected fuel pressure and the coils need to supply sufficient spark. Keep in mind you are dealing with cutting edge electronics from the early 90s. You need to purchase and have installed a fully programmable ECU to get more than about 10% more power. Your profile doesn't say where you are so it is hard to recommend, but in Australia Nistune (basic), PowerFC (basic but with a display), Link or Haltech would be the go. But the big factor is that it needs to be tuned, and you need to pick an ECU your tuner is comfortable with or it will cost much more while they learn it.

It's a cosmetic choice so up to your preference, but I get the cam covers, upper timing cover, twin intake pipe and plenum done. Couldn't find any good engine bay pics but they make it come up nice