Duncan

I'm torn by your question. It sounds like you want to retain 100% purity, so how can you put a part from the wrong series on it? The more common choice would be any 8mm EFI fuel line for all those parts

You have the most amazing imagination....it is not possible for all these things to happen to 1 person

You've got PM!

I hope he can fit in a viola case then

well, you have done the world a great service then! I actually have the original hard copy too picked up a copy I saw a few years back like a seagull on a hot chip, I only really use it for tracing wiring as the scan it not really legible for a lot of the detail

Good on them....massive job.....buy, buy, buy and give them a small payback for the huge effort they have put in.

As far as I know, the only JPNZ R33 manual is about 500 pages and engine only. Given that JPNZ went to the effort of scanning, translating and collating all those pages, I'd encourage anyone who needs it to pay the small amount for the trouble it can save you. I have not seen a scanned full copy of an original japanese R33 manual, although I do have the W34 Stagea one.

Don't be afraid to use the lower end of that range for those tapered plugs. They have an amazing ability to self tighten over time and I have never seen one of them leak from being undertightened.

Wwhich should make for a nice drive around both Phillip Island and Sandown. 300kw will probably lead to traction issues at tighter tracks like Winton so big rear tyres, good 1.5 way diff centre etc will help. Larger brakes for the front will help with longer runs too Once you get near 400kw and over stuff starts breaking and getting very expensive to fix and run.

OK, so this is the DS power window plug (both sides) This is the page from the wiring diagram with wire colours Also, if you are looking for the I have the AC plugs and don't need them, it was easiest to just cut the plugs in the car I stole them from (or maybe just because racecar) Wiring for the AC plugs if you need it

Are you looking to source and wire in the plugs? I probably have the AC plugs from the race car if you know what they look like

meh, the gtr or an evo9 does 1.06 there with just tyres too, and they are 30 years old....

I've got to be honest, I don't really understand what you are describing...if the car drives smoothly and does not stall when you let off the throttle I would not be concerned

yeah the trick is, when you put the fittings back in the fuse box, there is a bus bar between those 2 terminals and a whole heap of other places....

I'm pretty sure that also feeds the starter motor, and everything else that takes power from the fuse box in the front. Any particular reason you want to remove it?

You really need to start with some basic checks with a multimeter, that will tell you if power is getting to the switch and from the switch....there are too many places for this to fail after 30 years without knowing that

I'm not one to ask for burnout vids, but you could at least put steelies on the back to complete the look

Unfortunately I don't have clear pictures, and this is for an RB26, but this is all of the oil and water plugs in the block according to FAST Every shop will clean a block differently and some may put none (or worse some) of the plugs back. The welsh plugs are pretty obvious if they are missing, although there is a trickier one in the back of the head above where oil drains are often attached. Checking the one under the oil filter housing requires removal of the filter mount and I think there are some differences for rb30 with how the filter mounts. The RB30 I have in the stagea has a stagea oil filter mount so I'm not sure of the standard setup.

I rewired about 60% of my GTR when I put the haltech and smartwire PDM in. I did remove a fair bit but it is amazing how much you still need for a road legal car (lights, windows, main power distribution/battery etc). I know the S13/SR is a lot simpler but there is still a hell of a lot to it. I enjoyed the process and learning but I don't think the outcome is any better than a new factory or premade loom. And buying must be a lot cheaper once you consider off off costs like specialist tools, connectors, I used milspec wire, needed a labeller, specialist heatshrink, etc etc all adds up.

I doubt all of your problems will be solved with new harness(es), might be issues with switches and modules too. In any case, if you post up your vin we can look up the dash and rear harness part numbers

Sorry no pic, I moved mine to the wheel arch above the BOVs when I added a separate thermostat to the system. It is easiest to see the spot from underneath, so, first jack up you car... But that location you've circled is about right, just attach it the remote mount to the side of the chassis rail. The idea by having it low is that you are down there anyway to drain the oil, and mounting it upside-down low in the engine bay lets the oil that will inevitably come out during an oil change be caught in a pan instead of going all over your engine bay, or in the case of the standard location, all over the front diff to then dribble out over the next 5000klm as you drive around. All of those high mount kits like the greddy one that are designed to go near the fuse box put the filter in a location that is easy to access, but pretty much guarantees messy oil changes.

Are you running the standard ECU? I think you will blow up the engine, probably before I have had a chance to push "Submit Reply" If the mods you said above are the whole list, you need an ECU, almost certainly injectors, maybe a different air flow meter for it to run properly

There is a convenient space on the chassis rail just in front of the front diff where you can mount the filter upside down for ease of oil changes, nice and close to the sump plug too.

Stock rods are fine at 260-300awkw, I run a little over that in the race car and have never had a hint of a rod issue

I don't have a block handy, but I expect it is access to an oil gallery for cleaning, and therefore needs to be plugged again after machining and cleaning. There is no external feed there. Also, be aware there are other plugs that have probably been removed during cleaning, in particular the one under the oil filter housing that will allow all the oil to drop back to the sump if it is missing....