Duncan

I don't have a block handy, but I expect it is access to an oil gallery for cleaning, and therefore needs to be plugged again after machining and cleaning. There is no external feed there. Also, be aware there are other plugs that have probably been removed during cleaning, in particular the one under the oil filter housing that will allow all the oil to drop back to the sump if it is missing....

Well the good news, is after putting everything back clean next time, as a track only car it will be much nicer to work on in the future (not always true with rally cars, and definitely not for dirt rally cars) The other thing I (re)learn every time I take the engine out, is that what looked simple and good for a mod (eg oil cooler line routing or additional wiring) can be a disaster when you go to take the engine out and realise you have gone under/over/around the same part you need to remove, and you don't have a connector to pull it apart....

324s will be enough for sure, if you have troubles just move to more aggressive pads. I've only ever run 324 on the GTR.

Yeah the throttle position is a reasonable indicator of gear shift speed. Not saying that is the only potential cause, the could be a bent selector or some other weird gearbox magic...that's why a gearbox shop should look at it. Back when we did have an excellent skyline gearbox specialist in Sydney, they recommended high quality mineral oil for new gearboxes and diffs, changed regularly, rather than synthetics because the synthetics tended to have more modifiers which can glaze the gears.

almost totally off topic, but Mobility Engineering are the guys that complied my Cima a few years back...so at least they should know what a Stagea is

I think you need to pull the box and have a specialist for a view about what happened. I race a 32 GTR and have never had a problem with the synchros, using redline lightweight oil. I have swapped or rebuilt the box every 2-3 years as a precaution. On the other hand, Mark that I used to race with killed his synchros every year or 2. I'm pretty sure the difference was I shift slower and rev match better (good for box, bad for last tenths in lap time). If you have a data logger you should be able to tell from your TPS log how fast you shift. In the end synchros only have the time you give them between gears to work before forcing them. The slipperiness of the oil would be a factor but the time is the important part. If you need to change gears faster reliably you need dogs, not synchros. Of course, it could be anything else, like an initial assembly error too....that's why I'd get the box checked.

Also keep in mind the issue could be in the climate control display or the wiring between the 2, not just the module

It could be something optional as looms were probably shared across R33 models, eg a in glove box mini disc player or something. If nothing was plugged in before you pulled the dash, no need to worry

yeah I'd be on a skyline with this engine and manual quick smart if it was on offer...

Not to mention the quality of the compressor housing casting. But I am pretty sure the turbo speed sensor relates to direct electronic wastegate control which is a very logical step ahead (and already in production on the skyline version). Wastegates were about the only thing left in a modern car that was pneumatic instead of electric

The one I ended up with is "Base Grade" which ironically is not the lowest spec... I used this link to check specs for VINs when cars came up at auction, but because I wanted white and sunroof (super rare combo) and reasonable quality/price compromise, I just took what I could get spec wise. https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Nissan It confirmed mine had SAFETY PACKAGE; COLD AREA; PURE DRIVE EMBLEM; SUNROOF; LEATHER PACKAGE,BASE GRADE; PASSENGER SEAT CONTROL SWITCH; TRUNK AUTO CLOSURE; 2013 YEAR MODEL which was correct when it arrived 6 months later. The only thing I was looking for (not mandatory) that I didn't get was the Bose audio instead of basic but it is still good to my crappy ears. The VIP level has awesome toys but the reality is I never use the back seat except for the dogs, so I didn't worry too much

Yeah assuming you see a pair of cut wires, just rejoin them. If you are not confident a mechanic or auto elec could do it or alternatively buy some connectors, crimpers and wire strippers or side cutters to learn a new skill https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-crimping-tool-kit---151-pieces/562987.html?cgid=SCA01060604

Yeah I like.....possible new rally car since it would be much cheaper to crash that the 32 GTR.....

seals were removed and not replaced on mine before power coating, no real issue since they don't exactly seal 100% in any case. also, keep in mind plastic parts can't be powder coated because melt and some timing belt covers (R34?) were plastic.

Good choice, I've had a few good head jobs and have always found them worth every cent, and way better than trying to do it yourself.

Don't overthink it at this stage. Just check against what you remove and pay attention to sizing when you refit. The kits can be very comprehensive and you may well have parts left over. My guess is C is the sump plug washer and D the oil strainer o ring, but like I said, check against what you take off. A and B are probably turbo water and oil banjo bolts respectively. The front crank and cam seals are identical so you will have 3 of those the same. The large seal is the rear main seal for the crank.

Maybe some sort of main bearing issue (not spinning because you would hear it) but could be clearances, or maybe something simple but critical like an oil gallery plug missing like that nasty one where the filter housing attaches that causes oil to bypass rather than circulate, or o-ring on the oil pickup missing etc I'd still start with checking on a mechanical gauge and doing an oil analysis before pulling the engine, and with stuff like this best to ask the machine shop's opinion not the internet because it is expensive to be wrong. I've just pulled my motor after about 5 (short!) seasons because it was idling around 30psi and only giving 50-70 psi at full noise, standard bottom end with nitto pump running 20w50. I would not be comfortable with 15 at idle.

Hard to be certain, but probably not. In an olden car that uses coil triggering for the tacho maybe but s13 should use ecu's rpm which comes from the CAS, not coil firing events. My money is on an air leak, most likely a vacuum hose is not connected properly at one end or the other, or has a split in it.

Single turbos make very little sense for a GTR these days (ie, since they became a mega expensive collector's car) If you want a performance car with 400kw there are better choices built in the last 30 years. If you want a GTR because of what they were when they were made back in the day, twin turbos are what the factory chose. For road use, there is no practical difference between 300, 400 or 600kw, they all have too much power to keep your foot down for more than about 3 seconds.

I guess because the internet isn't full yet?

Umm yeah, there was a lot of big talk from both state and feds about how NSW was not having issues because of the "gold standard" response. Kind of looks more like dumb luck last year now.

Yeah mate we're going OK, no lockdown here and even if there was it is pretty much the same as normal life anyway After all, we only go to town about twice a year to buy a hundred pounds of yeast and some copper line. Hope everyone else is dealing OK with everything, no sign of this getting under control from where I sit

Well....the battery could be flatter after sitting there all that time..... But, no, compression doesn't sneak out on it's own.

rattle can scoop is totally in keeping with the style of the car, I'd just go for it.