Duncan

Yep, so the reason I asked that is vacuum and pressure bleed can be more reliable, manual bleed you can make errors (eg allowing pedal to retract before bleeder is closed, or not using hose to ensure only fluid gets pulled back in, or simply not flushing enough fluid through to clear out all bubbles because it is such a painful process......)

I think that does help; there is a high point in the "to 4 way" line which is above the master cylinder fluid level; it is possible you have air trapped there no matter how well you bleed it. Can you re-bend/re-route so that no brake line is higher than the master cylinder fluid level? Also, how are you bleeding; manual with a person pumping a pedal and another opening a bleeder into a (hopefully clear) hose, or vacuum bleeding at each nipple, or pressure bleeding from the master cylinder. At least having no ABS removes that issue as you can get air trapped there too because valves cycle when the ABS actuates.

I don't see how an issue with a variable pedal could possibly be due to not having a brake booster. Basically the booster adds assistance to make the pedal lighter (when the engine is running and making vacuum). Without a booster it should either be just right, too hard or too soft at all times depending on the master cylinder bore size and where the pivot is on the brake pedal (pedal ratio) What you are describing sounds like there is still air in the system somewhere; when you first press the pedal the air compresses which is why the pedal is soft and on subsequent presses because the air is already compressed you get the proper hard pedal feel as the wheel cylinders move. Do you have a pic of the changes you made around the master cylinder (or elsewhere like abs?) and how are you doing the bleeding?

Original link updated, thanks for both the new link and your original work!

Sorry, I can't help this time, my car is at the shop having the tree shaped hole removed from the rear quarter panel.... Re the diagrams, I actually have something rarer than rocking horse poo, an original printed copy of the australian workshop manual. The scan that is floating around online is super useful 99% of the time but the detail in the wiring pages aren't really legible so I dust off those pages when required. One day I'll work out how to get high res scans of the pages...

No point? That is a good electrician joke.

Not many of those around, haven't heard of one in ages. there was a thread back here from 06/07 where about 7 of them were identified in Aus. It looks R31 House in Japan used to make a FFP for them, but I'm not sure if they are still around, their agent in Australia, Powerplay Imports, are long gone. http://www.speedhunters.com/2020/03/fairlady-200zr-the-last-straight-six-z-car/

I'm not really sure about the "fast and wobbly" to 60klm/h bit, but many nissans are calibrated from factory to read 10% high, primarily to piss off everybody that ever needs to drive near or at the speed limit. So I suspect reading 90 at 80 and 122 at 100 are perfectly normal. There are different speedo drives for different diff ratios (eg, GTS4 was 10% shorter and so are automatics I think), so that is one option if it bugs you too much

They are all 13mm apart from the transfer case filler plug which is 11mm. I also use a 13mm square drive rather than 1/2 inch. 13mm square is hard to find as single drivers though.

f**k me they are some long bolts

Personal experience for me, I did all the race car bushes in Noltec and 3 seasons later they were all crumbling like that pic you posted....

I would not use them. Generally, Notlec bushes were great when new, but they disintegrate over time. Even if those were OK now, once you start putting them under pressure at that age they will just crumble. Worse, there is a reason people stopped using that arm design. It is too easy for the adjusting bolts to come loose leaving you with some excitement when they slip.

Any reason you are after those in particular? There are easier and cheaper ways to get larger brakes on skyline chassis these days, and in most cases the standard system is more than adequate with the right pads and rotors

Any hint on which country?

that is im-press-ive HAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAH I kill me. BTW consider clearance behind when you bolt the press down; lots of weird shaped parts need clearance front and back to fit properly and I fixed mine too close to the wall behind in the old place.

I hope they have something, I've only seen bullbar kits for 34s in the past.

nice racks!

Fair enough....don't worry fuel line is pretty forgiving so just go for the cut to length option. It is all a standard ID and hte hose clamp will make up for any OD variation

I'm torn by your question. It sounds like you want to retain 100% purity, so how can you put a part from the wrong series on it? The more common choice would be any 8mm EFI fuel line for all those parts

You have the most amazing imagination....it is not possible for all these things to happen to 1 person

You've got PM!

I hope he can fit in a viola case then

well, you have done the world a great service then! I actually have the original hard copy too picked up a copy I saw a few years back like a seagull on a hot chip, I only really use it for tracing wiring as the scan it not really legible for a lot of the detail

Good on them....massive job.....buy, buy, buy and give them a small payback for the huge effort they have put in.

As far as I know, the only JPNZ R33 manual is about 500 pages and engine only. Given that JPNZ went to the effort of scanning, translating and collating all those pages, I'd encourage anyone who needs it to pay the small amount for the trouble it can save you. I have not seen a scanned full copy of an original japanese R33 manual, although I do have the W34 Stagea one.