Duncan

Right, well that makes it surprisingly hard because larger diameters have much more area/glow. Say you want 3.5" flow (90mm) in twins, you need 2x 65mm. You do get 35mm more clearance that way but it's definitely not half. Ride height and side pipes are a problem; you can't have the chassis rails 100mm off the ground and then lose 65 or even 90mm clearance below it; you end up having to run the chassis rails 190mm off the ground (single) or 165mm (twin)....

Sidepipes are difficult in large diameters because you lose ground clearance where you cross the chassis rails and sills. You may want to consider smaller twins rather than large single for side pipe. Or major surgery around chassis rails/sills to get the clearance. Or....sad as it sounds, a rear exhaust is just way more practical...plenty of space and premade options if you want.

when you say the diff is completely dry, you mean on the outside, right? I was asking about internal fluid level, the filler is on the passenger side of the diff, generally half obscured by the exhaust. when you mention the 4wd error light is on, it is possible the ticking is the attessa pump relay turning on and off if your nitrogen cannister has insufficient pressure; however this should happen reasonably regularly even at idle when not moving, not just when you are braking. it is pretty much impossible to guess where the issue could be after a brief text description. If you can catch audio of the sound occurring that may help a lot, but frankly if a competent mechanic can't diagnose with the car in front of them it is pretty unlikely anyone can help you over the web.

Normally what someone would describe as a "ticking sound from the rear" is more likely to be related to the rear brakes - something like a rock caught between the disc/caliper/guard area, but if a mechanic has looked at it hopefully that is what they checked first. is there oil in the diff? normally a diff problem would be a clunk or whir/whine

I'll add that I've not had oiling problems in the race car for years (although I had plenty early on). I use hi octane extended/baffled sump, nitto oil pump, standard block (never line bored), drilled out block oil returns, a rear head oil return/breather, head oil restrictor, baffled cam covers, standard size cam breathers to catch can then atmo, and a big oil cooler with thermostat. And a carefully assembled bottom end. Lots of RBs racing with wet sumps and surviving, I can think of at least 3 that did 6 days of Targa Tas last month (Liam, Golly and Jason). AFAIK none of them use standard (extended) oil pump drives, nothing fancy.

Interesting question. Seems to me it was perfectly fine for the purpose it was engineered for; 100-206kw road cars. I guess a better question is, why do people expect road car engine oiling systems to be adequate for applications with triple the factory power, or sustained high g/ high rev usage? In my opinion Nissan's engineering on the RB series skylines is so good that people 30 years later expect to be able to operate them well beyond their design limits. Try that with an EB Falcon or a VN Commodore. BTW the Group A GTRs ran wet sumps with baffles. Any serious race engine (no matter what the production base was) will run a dry sump if the regs allow it.

Yeah I've got one in my HY51. Fast postage and does what it says. I did lose some features of mixed value like the front guard camera, the japanese lady yelling reverse parking instructions, and the japanese band tv tuner

Yeah, drilling them out is a bastard, the metal is too thin and it rips.

Odd....Prestige (Iron Chef, etc etc) are borkers working on your direction so it is your choice if it makes financial sense. The Fuga I just imported through Prestige there were cheaper cars here already but not in the spec and condition I was after.

Did Geoff say why they are not importing 370gt any more? There have been changes to import rules in the last 12 months that restrict models eligible for import.

And on the bright side, at least it didn't crack the windscreen - it often does when it flies up

No fact....just purely that the hole most likely elongated and eventually ripped in only 1 direction as it failed because the force was in 1 direction

Surely it is 12mm circle because it is a pivot point....whatever happened was nasty (didn't close latch)?

Then I can't help, but hopefully someone else can...

I'm pretty good, but it's hard to guess what car that is off from the pics....

I mean, back in 19jggity3 when I was young we used to have to do that in the snow, uphill both ways in the boiling sun. You must be granny shifting instead of double clutching like you should have!

Yeah agreed elk...surely you can drive home with no clutch (as long as the battery/starter are good and not too many traffic lights )

Please note this thread is still monitored and the quickest way to get a username changed.

Those sensors are a great idea to simplify plumbing and wire routing, hope they are reliable over time. Any thermostat with a properly designed sender port should be fine to use; you obviously can't take either temp or pressure from the oil cooler loop in a system with a thermostat. There is some disagreement about whether you want pre or post oil cooler temperature, my view is I want pre cooler temp because I want to know the hottest the oil got.

If you don't trust your broker to tell you the correct price, why would you trust them to check out a car for you. Plenty of better ways to rip you off from another country if that is their intention

Also, off topic posts removed.

Alright, now everyone can settle the hell down. New posters are welcome on this forum, and prior knowledge is not a pre-requisite. Please welcome new people and share knowledge with them, as each of us learned when we joined and over our time here.

Yeah exactly, it is common for parts to be a few degrees off flat. If a couple of them go the same way you end up with that sort of issue. Not many china parts are as bolt on as they claim.... Cut and reweld at a zorst shop. BTW thanks for the introduction to new terminology "long laying knee" and "downpipe" I take it that is the first piece off the turbo (dump pipe) and piece from the dump pipe to that cat converter which we would normally call front pipe?

It was a pretty abrupt response Ben. You might want to check distance to Alice (from everywhere!) before you drop by...

sounds like a good project...do you have a future home for it? It is worth getting the R32 GTR workshop manual, while the motor is not identical, the long block is very similar and it will have pretty much everything you need. There is also an R33 GTST workshop manual which is specific to that motor, but is in japanese