Duncan

No issue really, it just stops going whoosh and will be off the road until you replace the turbo (a high flow standard turbo is the quickest)

Axles! (almost never the diff, they are massive)

Why is WA still imperial not metric? About 450kw, right? Anyway, assuming it is not racing of some sort, it should be fine for street and twisty driving because you just don't use the whooshy end of the rev range very much at all, perhaps once or thrice a day or week. Gearbox however is at risk depending how you shift when you are pushing the car hard. Take it easy on full power shifts and you should be fine

Did f**k all on the race car this weekend because a couple of other jobs pushed in The tractor 3 point link needed sorting so I could mount the slasher up properly (it had been running cat 2 pins on a cat 1 linkage for probably 30 years, really not OK when it is not to complex to run adapter bushes). Anyway, all converted across and ready to kill tall weeds again next weekend. Then, I took the stagea for a zoom over to a neighbour's on Sat night, about 1hr each way. I was about 5klm out of Crookwell when I noticed the dash clock had gone really dim. Checked the volt gauge and it was down to 9.4v...got worse as I got closer and by the time I arrived it was down to 8.5v and missing like a bitch. Anyway, got a lift home and went back to pick up the car this morning. I figured the charge light globe had failed causing the alternator not to charge because it all went bad pretty suddenly. After pulling the dash apart and checking the globe, it was fine which was kind of annoying. Chucked the old race car alternator on it, and it started charging fine, so something in the alternator had died suddenly. Kind of annoying but the car has over 400,000klm on it and as far as I remember the alternator was original. Anyway, the only thing I did on the race car was put in place a better engineered solution than the traditional jack stand. One M10 rivnut in the firewall, Add chain and voila, gearbox is not going anywhere it shouldn't while at the panel shop

Like Ewan said. The same practical issue exists in 4wd RB30 conversions because the sump adapter means the sump's bolt holes are 8-10mm off from the gearbox holes On my original rb30 I got the sump rewelded (tricky as it is cast). Then i replaced the sump as the quick way to deal with a diff failure (apparently diffs need oil, who knew, not the workshop....) Current setup only uses the 4 engine block bolts and with 400awkw the gearbox hasn't fallen off yet (no promise it won't tomorrow though!) BTW, noting my experience is not with 1000hp drag cars....is an additional brace necessary or is this just non-externally-visible ricing your car? rbs are unusual (but not unique) in that they have a full cast girdle from factory holding the main bearing caps in place. dinosaurs like most v8s (which can also make big power), still run separate main caps and just put 4 or 6 bolts into each instead. Is there are proven issue where the 2 bolt per bearing girdle in RBs have issues with moving in big power applications?

This feels a bit like do you prefer blondes or brunettes.... I'd take the engine out for sure rather than drop the x member (noting dropping the x member is a hoist only option in practice. Apart from anything else, it lets you have easy access to properly clean the bottom end for resealing the sump.

looks like it is a no thongs outside day today, bummer. hell of a swing in maximum temps over a week from -5 to 28 too.

Well, they are also hand made and it could have been an error in manufacture - you should speak to them and see if they will offer to repair it (noting it is currently half way around the world from them)

Welcome Daryl. I'm a big fan of fast stageas....no-one really suspects them....

Pretty sure it is a laser that cuts people in half if they walk in front of you. Handy feature.

Per forum rules, posts which do not relate to questions or clarifications on the item have been removed. Advertised price is the choice of the seller.

I'm not familiar with how those are set, but conceptually yes, if the low boost setting is stock then the car will be happy as long as it was never tuned for higher boost in the first place (ie, it is still an unmolested standard computer) Alternatively, you could keep running and enjoying the car at 12psi, it is not an automatic death sentence for the turbo, just riskier. If it goes there are reasonably cheap high flow bolt on turbos you could replace it with

I think the water is worthwhile. I've got 1000l cube catching some of the rainwater at my shed and use it a fair bit for washing/rinsing stuff and hand washing. No drain/waste of course, just runs to ground nearby

You won't be able to run a larger turbo on a stagea with a standard ECU. They are very sensitive to changes in airflow, even a mild boost increase on the standard turbo will throw it off. If you want to be able to return it to stock, best to plug in an ECU like a PowerFC and put the larger turbo on, reasonably easier to return to stock if you want to.

I'm just some random on the internet. Yes, if the bearings are damaged it will be cheaper to rebuild it before they spin; the longer a damaged motor runs the more likely other parts will be damaged. On the other hand, my bet is that if it ran for 10 minutes and isn't knocking already, it will be fine and the rebuild is not necessary.

If it is running and sounding normal, all you can do is drive it. Unless and until it starts knocking, you will recognise the quite different noise if it happens

Took the engine out yesterday, and since there have been a few discussions about it lately I thought I'd share how I did it. I'm no mechanic and had no hoist this time; no doubt others will do it faster or slower, this took me 5 hours. Probably would have gone a little quicker but I had a stripped nut on the LCA ball joint and the exhaust was damaged and jammed where the tree hit the quarter panel. Disconnect battery (thanks Ben!) Drain radiator, front diff, sump. I've got an old blanket that I chucked under them all because the coolant in particular never co-operates and who wants to lie around on old car fluids for the rest of the day? Back off alternator and power steering adjusters, take belts off Remove airbox, AFM, intake pipes including BOV return balance pipe. Hose pliers like these really help to not damage stubborn hoses (and hands) Remove radiator with shroud on, fan and fan belt out the top Remove blow off valve pressure feed, main earth, boost solenoid (boost solenoid goes out with the engine) Remove fuel lines and throttle cable. Block fuel lines with 8mm bolt and label them to save trouble on re-install! Remove brake and clutch vacuum booster line and any other vacuum lines eg boost controller or MAP sensor pressure Remove starter motor and alternator wiring Remove injector (etc) wiring on top of the engine and move out of way. These bent nose pliers are handy with both nissan breather spring clips and those nasty little spring clips on injectors Remove oil cooler lines. I have a connection where they run under the chassis rail from the engine adapter plate to the thermostat that makes this much easier. Removing lines from an adapter plate on the engine is somewhere between hard and impossible depending on space. Then on to the stuff where I wish I had a hoist.... Remove Zorst mid pipe and rear pipe. For me that includes the wide band 02 sensor in the front pipes Remove LH driveshaft (I did actually forget this step until I was trying to lift the engine....) Remove RH driveshaft. This can be a major pain but it went OK for me this time. I removed split pin, undid hub nut with rattle gun, removed washer. Then undid 19mm bolts holding lower control arm ball joint to the upright and removed the shock and sway bar (seems like a lot of undoing but it makes removing the hub end of the cv easier). Removed hub end of the cv. Then, using a large pry bar I pried the diff end out of the diff housing. After it had moved a little, I backed out one of the diff cover bolts so that I could keep prying (the lip on the cv is pretty small. Remove starter motor (14mm stubby ratchet, use a piece of rope looped around it to pull from below if it's too tight) Remove front drive shaft Jack under the gearbox cross member, remove cross member bolts and drop as low as possible without putting strain on the ATTESSA feed Undo 8 bolts holding engine to gearbox. With the rear of the gearbox low you can run a set of long extensions (1 use 4x 3/8) to get a 14 socket above the gearbox to the top bolts. All the rest are straightfoward. Undo engine mounts. Attach lifting crane, lift out of engine mounts, then pull forward until the (extended) sump is about to hit the sway bar, then up higher to clear the sway bar (by now the input shaft is out of the spigot bearing), then forward until the balancer just clears the radiator support, then up and out. While still on the hoist, remove clutch cover, clutch, flywheel and engine plate, then bolt onto engine stand and job done.

Yeah it is sure easier on the back with a hoist. I got my slab epoxy sealed (with a flake finish because it hides uneven-ness). I did cost a(nother) couple of thousand and they did a bit of grinding to get the surface right. We have the same issue with dirt tracking in, this is what it looks like with daily use on a rainy year. A broom every now and then and probably an annual pressure wash is all it needs but it looks good, keeps fluids spills up and is not slippery so I am very happy. No idea how long it will last, it has been down 18 months with no issues yet. The paint I had on my previous garage was lifting in some places where I'd had sticky tyres on hot days after about 5 years and I wasn't looking forward to redoing that. I've got unsealed concrete in the farm shed and that is impossible to deal with the oil leaks.

First, jack up your car.....

It really is hard to provide advice because it depends on how much you are trying to lower temps, and at this stage you don't know if you have a problem at all. I'd go without an oil cooler for now, but add a temp gauge. My guess is something that small won't make much difference so would only be useful if you have a minor temp issue

more seriously though, if anyone can explain to me why one of these cars is the ugliest car ever designed, and the other is a 6 figure uber desirable one, I'd love to hear it.

umm.....any concerns about the roof then?

Well in an even further apart comparison, there is an AU conversion available for Stageas too

That looks like a standard flywheel to me, and it looks like it's had a hard life. You could always weigh it to find out...

Yeah I find it interesting how different workshops work in different places, one of our Canadian guys mentioned some -35 days recently too. Generally here it won't get below -10 in winter or more than 45 is summer but it does vary depending on location. This has been a cooler summer but there was still a run of +30 days where I am last week which makes it damn hot to work inside a metal shed with limited airflow. I'm pretty sure Neil's setup started like most Australian work spaces, steel framed shed with thin external steel sheeting....thus the addition of the internal lining and insulation. The floor will still be cold to lie on in winter though because pretty much no-one has a heated floor.