Duncan

Seem like you are pretty committed to the engine downgrade! Have you also considered a v6 from a camry?

Even under the old SEVS the cars to Feb 2009 were eligible because Nissan didn't import them new until then. http://rvcs-prodweb.dot.gov.au/sevs/477-01.htm

Patience! He said the same about the 86 for the first 17 pages...

Really interesting how different people feel the power steering impact. I haven't had speed input in my 32 GTR for years and am happy with the weight. Yes it is heavier than a modern car but not unmanageable. Sorry I can't help with the 33 GTR wiring, I've only ever seen manuals in japanese not english

I am not sure on the M35 but R series and C34 stagea are not rebuildable and I assume m35 are not as well. Best option is to cut the uni off the old one and get a suitably sized replacement welded on (then rebalance shaft) as any 2nd hand shaft you find will be 20 years old and rooted too.

I run them on the race car, but don't have anything back to back to show any difference. I have no reason to believe the "lightweight" does anything, but underdriving the alternator, water pump and power steering pump when using sustained high rpm in track use makes sense to me (you could also achieve this through a different balancer of course.) Note the Greddy oversize pullies (water pump in particular) requires the standard harmonic balancer to be turned down a little in a lathe to clear the pulley.

I know of multiple enkei RPF that have cracked. They are probably good for cast wheels but I believe a forged wheel is always going to be stronger. I've been running cast Wedsport SA90 for many years and never broken one, they are pretty thick and probably heavy Also, I decided to do some testing on the forged BC RT50 over the weekend, had a reasonably major crash that means we need to replace the rear half of the car and popped the tyre bead off the rim, but the wheels made it through fine... Sorry I don't have rim only weight, they all have tyres on them, but they are lighter in 18x10 than the 17x8 cast weds are

GTR offset, but not for a GTR, right? On a 32 GTR with standard (rolled rear) guards, I have BC Racing custom forged wheels in 18x10+22 offset rt50 design (similar to Rays TE37) fitting perfectly. I've not broken a wheel racing personally (not that I've never tried :)) but I value strong and preferably forged wheels for safety. Considering how much is spent on these cars for racing $1,200 per rim for a forged wheel that fits perfectly was good value to me.

what makes them good? good wipers are relevant to my interest

I went solar vents on mine, lots of hot days with no wind. Still too damn hot to work too hard today (shame I have to turn the car around after Bathurst yesterday to the rally next weekend...)

Agree. M35 is a much newer and more refined car. Suck if you decide to modify them though....

Shed looks awesome, will be nice to be inside instead of our in the sun over summer

Yeah I don't have a specific recommendation but it was pretty common to weld a reinforcement into the early model doors back in the day. I didn't realise it was still required.

Given you have just changed the clutch there are multiple things that could have been done incorrectly....but most likely is you need to adjust the clutch pedal back down (did you adjust it up when the clutch was worn?) Could also be an issue with the fork not being installed correctly with the pivot, or the release bearing being the wrong height (did you change it?)

I think it is weird we have assumptions about some sales being fixed price (eg bottle of milk) and others requiring a negotiation (eg a car or a home loan). You can't bargain with web sites, fixed prices (which the seller succeeds or goes out of business with) are the future. Definitely doesn't need government to set specific rules for selling cars. The industry is on borrowed time anyway, we will all just rent auto driving cars for a trip in no more than 20 years so a car dealership is not a good long term investment.

Assuming you can prove you've owned it for 2 years overseas, you can bring it in as a personal import which is the least restrictive import scheme. It is probably still worth using an import broker who is familiar with the procedures

Yeah that level is way high. But that is a moot point since it looks like you need to replace those lines which means you will have to refill it anyway. Hard to be sure form the angle but I believe the leaks are from the 2 lines that go to/from the reservoir, you can see the other end of them in the boot pic. It is pretty tricky to get to them but I'd see if they are available from amayama or similar in factory parts and replace them. If not just measure the hard piping diameter and use some regular straight hose which should fit OK (there are no tight turns in those hoses). Nothing special, they don't carry pressure.

I believe they are the lines to the attessa pump so it is probably auto trans fluid (very thin/slippery). Is the level in your boot Reservoir low?

You can either source parts from a wreck, or if necessary have them made up. Making hard lines does require specialist tools and knowledge but not rocket science They shouldn't really be rusting unless you car has spent some time underwater at some stage, or on very salty roads. Do you have other rust underneath?

hmm that's almost exactly the same as mine on 98, 395akwkw. Hopefully I'll have more luck with the box. I guess it depends how much you need to run daily, for me a box that is easy to live with is a priority (ie, factory, or at least a helical/synchro box)

lol, not ideal as an improvement.....are you making enough power to make it worth upgrading the gearset? a stronger box can make it a pain if you drive it daily, unless you are sticking with a helical gearset.

I strongly doubt the oil is clean. if you drop it there will be sparkles of copper all through the bottom of the drain tray. I've very confident the bottom end needs a rebuild to replace the spun big end bearing, measure for any other damage (eg rod), cleaned thoroughly and reassembled

100% absolutely. stop running it and park it until you can fix it

Yeah, pretty much. If the issue is in 1 cylinder you'll only see it on one plug (one injector or one coil pack), but if it is general like fuel pressure, bad tune etc you will see it over all. Failed o2 sensor not necessarily so simple because they only normally are used at light/constant throttle

Well, I'd definitely talk to the retailer, they will have more experience. And of course there could be some issue with a batch but that is less likely. The big thing I found with those tyres is they work better with unusually high pressures, over 40 hot works best. If you are running well below that try higher. Given that is the outside letting go you probably don't have enough camber for your springs/rollbar setup at that track but that is hard to address on a road car. But likely it is mostly tyre temp, the front left works hard at wakie, so especially over longer sessions on a hot day and depending on how soft the compound is that is where I would start. Just get a infra-red pyrometer and check surface temp of that tyres straight after a session