Duncan

Re the 4wd, when the error light is on at the dash, there should also be an error light which flashes a number of times to indicate a code in the computer which is in the boot under the rear parcel shelf. So, next time the light is on head into the boot to check that and there is a good chance there will be enough information to at least start hunting down that problem...

In other series it means that the car was removed from the production line for another manufacturer to build like Autech etc. Not sure if that applies to your car. Generally in R32 the engine bay should be a duller version of the original exterior colour, so a red metallic car would have a dark red engine bay

Great to see! What are the main rules for the WRL series? Do you need to keep capacity at 2l for instance?

Since you wanted more power mostly for track use and the power is a pain on the street, adjustable boost level is a smart answer. Then, you aim for a wheel alignment that is a mid point between street and track use. This means a little camber (-1 to -0.5) and probably 0 toe at the rear, and at the front as much caster as you can get, a little toe out and medium camber (will depend on how much adjustment your bushes and arms have). You should also upgrade sway bars, and if your shocks are shot you could look at upgrading them to something street/track suitable. Yes a good diff will help a lot on the track but really not on the street.

Surely if you wanted 300+ in a rwd car it was because you *didn't* want rear traction? Unless the rear wheels are tramping when they spin, the shocks and springs won't make any difference to your straight line, in gear traction. Wheel alignment can, if you want to minimise wheelspin in a straight line you could go for as little camber as possible (will depend on your ride height and if you have any aftermarket arms or bushes), and 0 static toe. However, this would increase the likelihood of loosing traction at full throttle in corners - trade off.... What will make a difference is tyre quality and width but even then it is likely any tyres will spin in 1st and probably 2nd with that sort of power. Good semi slicks are noisey and tramline on the road but will give you maximum chance of traction (again, a trade off). You should be able to fit 10" wheel (285/295 tyres) with the right offset. You should probably just have a low/hi boost switch and leave it in low for normal driving, because everything I've suggested above will make your car harder to live with for 99.9% of day to day driving.

It's kind of a complex question. $5k is probably not unreasonable for the work and materials in a custom engine loom, but as said above there are other ways to achieve the same thing. 1.Cheapest way forward is to identify and fix anything that is damaged. 2.Prebuilt wiring looms as recommended above, or even a new genuine nissan one. Genuine for a 32 (looks like you have 33 GTR?) is about 1200 from amayama 3.Build a new loom from scratch It's probably frustrating to learn late in the build but the workshop may not have been able to identify electrical issues until the engine was in and running. Plus, a genuine 1000hp+ build is not cheap so leaving questionable wiring in place seems like a bad idea

well you probably already know, but the dash clock is on Nismo heritage. Came across it while looking for something else the other day

Proof I was having fun...up until the "incident"!

Hey mate it was good to catch up there, I had a good run (other than the power steering pump bearing failing) and hope you Vic invaders did too (in that small window when borders were open!) I know this thread is way out of date, but I had the car back and running in June and did a test day at Wakefield. Amazingly after having removed every bit of suspension and redoing all the wiring, it ran flawlessly except the power steering pump bearing which failed. After I killed a second one at Bathurst Neil pointed out it was most likely a simple dumb mistake, ie the belt was too tight both times. Sure enough I backed it off a fair bit and no problems since. At Bathurst I came 2nd in Category I (Log booked touring cars on treaded tyres) with a 2.27.8, beaten by Jason Wright in his very impressive R34 (which did a 2.23.7, way faster. Was great to stretch the car's legs around a big track and it was way more fun to drive it than it was in the dirty evo (top speed 257 was 8klm/h faster too). It was hot 32o ambient and the oil temps were pretty high (130+), and the brakes needed a cool down after 3 laps so if I want to do the 6hrs in the GTR it is going to need more cooling. I ended up skipping the last 2 sessions because I didn't want to break anything since Kel and I were entered in Great Tarmac Rally the weekend after so I came back, changed the PS pump over and ready to go again. I did trip both pumps down and cleaned and replaced all the seals, but the only issue seemed to be the shaft bearing was stuffed in each. We also had an awesome run down at the rally, top 5 outright pace and the car was running beautifully. Until I didn't process a call Kel gave me just before lunch day 2 and put the car off the edge and into a tree which was kind of unfortunate. The car seems mostly OK mechanically, engine still runs and it even drives straight (will get the alignment checked properly but there is no visual damage). Unfortunately the tree hit the rear quarter hard enough to shift the whole boot across so there is major work and possibly even a new rear half required to fix it so it will be a while before she's back again.

There is really no point buying new arms if you want to use bushes instead of rose joints, that's why there are very few available. You just put adjustable bushes into you factory arms (both ends if necessary) and you will have plenty of adjustment unless you are running poor geometry anyway (eg, way too low). Whiteline and other brands make adjustable bushes to suit.

I guess they key point is, you don't want/need a diff that locks the wheels together under deceleration as that promotes understeer on turn in. If you are buying, preference should be 1 > 1.5 > 2. Having said that the GTR (non 33 vspec) factory diff is a mechanical 2 way and can be readily shimmed for the level of carpark clunking you want, That's all we use in the race car and it is a good thing, thanks Nissan.

Lock nuts are nothing but a pain, just piss them off.

Yes, a 1 or 1.5way for track use in a GTSt

lol should we just move this to DIY under "how to hotwire a stagea" Anyway, I don't have the wiring readily available. One wire will be from battery and will have constant 12v, most likely red From there, if you can turn the key in the barrel you could check which barrel output gets power on each key position, it should be AGN position - power at ACC IGN position - power at ACC and IGN START position - power at IGN and START If you can't turn the barrel (and no-one has the wiring), just use a jumper wire that can handle 20A (so not just little alligator clips) and connect the 12v battery wire you identified to each of the other 3. One should give you ACC (eg radio turns on), one should give you IGN (dash lights etc) and the other will either try and start the car (assuming in park if auto, or nothing at all because IGN (ECU etc) is not on). My semi educated guess is Yellow is ACC, White is IGN and blue is start.

I think the PowerFC is fine for 90% of use cases, they have been running these engines properly for decades. As Josh said, you need to consider whether you can find a tuner familiar with it as that makes a big difference to the cost of tuning. BTW if budget it an issue, keep in mind you will need a tune as well, cost 500-1000USD I guess

It doesn't look like a factory relay holder to me, they are generally green or blue or brown (to match the relay that plugs into them) Is there something not working?

lol some days eh? Anyway, yes OP you may well need a specialist insurer, and it may take more than website visits. I use Lumleys for mine and other options include shannons. Funnily enough Lumleys is owned by IAG (NRMA) so pretty big miss that their call centre sent you somewhere else.

No oiling required, just bang it in

The attessa system is the same across all the 4wd models in the series. so electronically controlled centre torque split from 0-50% FWD depending on throttle position, lat and long Gs. You can't safely pull the fuse for 2wd as there is always some preload on the transfer case in 33 series, you need to remove the front driveshaft if you need 2wd

Sorry CR calculation is not something I'm familiar with. I'd dummy assemble it with the 9.0 pistons and check how far they protrude from the block at TDC. I've done light head and block skims before with 1.2mm head gasket and not had issues but that is just one data point, not a rule.

Even with new crank, Nissan measured and put in different bearings, that's why they list STD 0, STD 1 and STD 2 part numbers. Since the block is used you should have it cleaned then measured for tunnel straightness, potentially even tunnel bored. Ideally you will then measure the clearance for each journal of the crank to the block and order the bearing to suit. Or just slap a set of STD 0 in there and hope for the best, at least you are only aiming for 800hp not a big build.

Can i just say, good timing on post this up...I need to replace those 2 top hoses and the cross check info was very timely :thumpsub:

Seem like you are pretty committed to the engine downgrade! Have you also considered a v6 from a camry?

Even under the old SEVS the cars to Feb 2009 were eligible because Nissan didn't import them new until then. http://rvcs-prodweb.dot.gov.au/sevs/477-01.htm

Patience! He said the same about the 86 for the first 17 pages...