Duncan

I assume everything was apart above the subframe to change the accumulator, so connector not reseated properly or damaged wiring sounds like a possibility. The pump should also run when the car is if the pressure is low, so start the engine then open the bleeder and see if it starts bleeding that way. That will isolate bleed switch/wiring issues.

sorry, and yes, replace the oil cooler and oil/water intercooler. you can't reliably clean bearings out of either. given it was an oil starvation issue, I'd replace the pump too.

mate, new block or not, you still need to get everything cleaned and measured to make sure it is all in spec, choose correct bearings etc etc. Don't just guess/hope, it will be having it's 3rd rebuild...

To be fair, this motor has well and truly had the nissan let out before now, and was making 3x the power the engine was designed for. Johnny let me know if the car hasn't made it back home yet and you need a hand

well, you can't change the laws of physics; a borrowed car is always quicker than one you own. at least it is a short walk to heatherbraes (or Maccas if that is your thing)

BTW, i take it you had better tyres on this time? hope they were fun while it lasted

Doesn't sound ideal. I live nearby if you need help next time you seize a motor at Wakie

Sounds like a smart set of regs to prevent an arms race. You will have trouble getting reliable input on na rb20 vs rb25 because pretty much everyone here is turbo. I suspect you need to buy a motor and have a good look....

Well I don't have specific experience with the non-turbo engines, but I always love to see a skyline racing It is hard to see how you will end up quicker than a 2.0l honda as engine and whole car will weigh a fair bit more. If you want to stay nissan (and who wouldn't), what about an n/a slivia with that SR20VE you mentioned. Must be lighter, reasonable suspension geometry etc.

@Savman might be a good source of info, although he was interested in turbo not NA differences. From memory there was an RB20VE somewhere along the line which was even better then DE with the variable valve timing. I don't know what the class rules/restrictions you are looking at, but there are a lot more efficient 2.0l na engines than an RB20.

There must be a decent machine shop, Toronto's not that small! Any opinions from the interweb are guesses, that needs to be checked and measured. I don't know what you know about the engine's history, but some of those bores still seem to have hone marks (cross hatches) on them and 87mm pistons aren't factory, so someone has been in there before, and probably recently. And of course you can't tell how good a job was done, or why the engine was apart that time.... Also, a main bearing is only going to seize due to a major oil supply problem, so you need someone who can work out what happened there. As for repairs, cranks can be checked for straightness, ground for undersized bearings and the block and girdle tunnel bored to match so that can all be fixed depending on the depth of the scores. My guess is the cams will need replacement and the cam journals will need tunnel boring too. And, at least one of the cylinders looks like it needs honing at least; if so you need new rings for 87mm pistons, or if the block needs boring out from 87 it should probably be junked. I'd carefully check and probably replace the oil pump A new block might be the way to go, they come with matching machined girdle but be careful assembling as they don't come with all oil plugs etc installed. If you go that way you will still need new 86mm pistons and rings, all bearings, and you still need to get the head checked for those scores. You need to thoroughly clean all externals that have oil (oil/water heat exchanger under the oil filter, any oil cooler should be replaced), turbo(s), oil lines etc as they will all have bearings in them that can kill the fresh engine before you reassemble.

No, R34 /neo and R33 had different connectors for the ECU, there were a couple of other differences around traction control too I think. Just keep an eye out, there must be a billion r33 Power FCs out there still. And make sure you donate that Wolf to a museum, haven't come across on of those in ages!

I've had this kit for a few years with no problem https://justjap.com/jjr-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-nissan-rb26dett-r32-gtr-black.html

Thanks for correcting that, yes Transmax Z is the stuff for ATTESSA actuator, transfer case, power steering!

It's not exactly clear from the pics which line it is, so I can't confirm part#. However, it is unusual for those hoses to leak (of course nothing is impossible). I'd undo and then nip up the banjo bolt at the each end of the hose, and also the flare fitting at the back of the transfer case. Then degrease everything and check again after some driving. If there is a light leak there, it's not the cause of your 4wd problem, there is nothing major in those pics. If you replace that line you will need to refill the boot reservoir and rebleed the system. You can use any good auto trans fluid, I use Castrol Syntrans in the race car but I don't know if that's available where you are. You could use a syringe to pull fluid out of the boot before you undo the line if you want to minimise the fluid that runs through.

Yes, as long as you don't the engine much. Why do you want to remove it? replacing split hose or going single turbo?

It will

Hi Anal, I'd contact the "big brake kit" seller and ask what they have that suits. Noting it is not exactly a "kit" if there are no brake lines....

VCT gives you extra whoosh in the midrange by adjusting the cam. It can't make your run poorly but it is worth sorting out a fix so it gives you the available whoosh.

squinting harder.....

there's 2 plugs in that pic, and neither are broken. that is one hard internet test

don't worry about it mate. if that is the issue you won't make it worse warming it up. back to an earlier question what did you mean when you said the turbos were "blown". potentially an overboost issue could end up with ring land problems on the rear 3 cylinders too, but either way it is the same solution (pull engine and tear it down)

Agreed, but the concern is all 3 rear cylinders are well down which matches an issue with the rear turbo affecting cylinders 4-6

Sorry but it doesn't look good. When the exhaust wheel lets got at 150,000rpm, ceramic pieces have enough velocity to travel against the exhaust gas, through the open exhaust valve, and scratch the shit out of the cylinder bores. Happened to me when I first got my car, and I guess it has just happened to you. A borescope could be used through the spark plug hole to inspect the bore for scratches. If that has occurred, you need engine out bottom end rebuild, with bored out cylinders and oversize pistons. Expensive, but not compared to GTR prices these days....

It's well off topic, but on track insurance is available, the cost just reflects the risk. A condition of the Evo I leased for the Bathurst 6 hour a few years back was write off insurance, and it cost about 25% of the car's value for the weekend.