Duncan

PAR are still around although with a reduced line these days. Try contacting Haysam through the PAR website, others on here may have direct contact details too

That I don't know. I run a separate sender for safety since the stock dash one is about 30 years old.....of course that requires the sender, some sort of t piece and wiring the sender to the ECU which is a bigger job.

Yes exactly. Any of those illumination lights under the dash are suitable, and tapping into the dash looms i easiest because you can indicators and handbrake there too.

Thanks for passing on your good habits there Neil. Still have too many partially finished job but at least the tools are put back clean

Considering the length of the installation write up, you'd think they would include a wiring diagram, especially when it is so intrusive. One option would be to ask them for a diagram instead of just description (some saying about pictures being worth a thousand words....) My understanding is the 12v to the pump needs a 30A power supply, through a relay triggered by IGN and the pressure switch. Of the 2 wires into the pressure switch, one should have continuity to earth (leave this), the other will trigger the relay) Wiring to the relay (my understanding, I've never done this and the instructions aren't great....) 85 - connect to the pressure switch wire which does not have continuity to earth. I believe that is terminal 4 on the diagram but check 86 - 12v from IGN position of key. You can take this from any source that has 12v only when the key in at IGN. 30 - 12v, 30A fused power feed (from battery or other known high amp source) 87 - 12v to the pump. The other wire on the pump can go straight to a good earth. Also, there is more information on the stock system and wiring pC-57 onwards in the 32 GTR manual. Having said all that, in the case of a basic road car install, in recommended order: 1. Get an auto electrician to do this, expect it to take probably a day 2. Connect it to the existing wiring and relays, which is why they provided the ATTESSA computer pin outs. Everything you need is already there assuming it was working OK 3. Wire from scratch as you seem to be doing is the hardest if you are not familiar with auto electrica

I bet the injectors are blocked. Can you remove them and get them cleaned?

There may well be other integrations beside the security that will throw errors, eg BCM, IPDM and TCM. Won't it be less painful to go after market engine management?

Can you post up the instructions? "Low side" would mean the side of the relay that doesn't have 12v; in nissans of this age generally the earth is switched, not the 12v side. Nissan Factory relays are generally 4 wire and don't follow the usual naming standard of 30 and 87 being switched, and 85 and 86 being the trigger side but the same concept applies (and it will be shown on top of the relay). 2 of the terminals are the main 12v feed from the battery and to the device. The other 2 terminals (shown with a coil between them) join the first pair of wires when 12v is on one terminal and earth on the other. To turn the device on there is usually constant 12v (or it comes on with key on ACC, or IGN), and then the other terminal is set to earth by a control unit when the device should be turned on. So, have a look at the relay to work out which pin is which, the remove it from it's holder and use a multimeter to see which trigger terminal has 12v (constant, ACC or IGN). The other trigger terminal is the "low side" of the relay.

Under 18s I'd be running the 256 because the price difference over 330 is negligible, and I'd use the 6 piston over 8 because the 8 piston have the same total piston volume but 6/8ths less things to wear or get stuck.....the caliper these were copied from (AP) was a 6 piston

lol I feel like I should be on commission, but yes ATTKD kit is the way to go. All brand new bits, well proven for street and track use, and right price

The Tesla should to well although range towing probably takes a big hit. What did they rate it to? Nissan refused to rate the leaf for towing so not legal in NSW...

lol didn't see that twist coming.

Still Titan-ing, 3 years later

It just reduces the chance of rattling springs. Race only stuff generally just uses a flat spring with flat spring mount, even then, they aren't generally noisy unless the spring is not captive through full travel

Yes, the washers go back in.

Other than looks or very serious track use, I'm not sure why you would need anything other than upgraded pads and rotors. But if you are determined to upgrade the ATTKD stuff is by far the best bang for buck - $2k for brand new calipers, pads, rotors, lines and the required adapters https://justjap.com/catalog/product/view/id/20577/s/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r33-93-98/ There was a recent discussion and some people have gone the alpha omega Evo 10 kit for skylines which is also a good option but doesn't compare price wise unless you have access to good condition evo 10 calipers

Sounds like the ej-1 is long gone then. Weird they didn't take the harness so maybe it was dead rather than resold. It is 30 year old aftermarket electronics after all. Yes they are pretty rare, and in working condition and with the US market influence on skyline prices it is probably worth a gazillion dollars in working condition (I mean, if a second had steering wheel is worth $1k, for instance....). They were made for R33 skyline and W34 stagea only to my knowledge. You can use it with any device that creates a video signal, from memory it is NTSC not PAL but that means there are plenty of choice. In my stagea I ran the ej-1 to a TV tuner which could switch the output between TV and the ej-1 screen, and then outputted both to the dash and the stereo head unit, but if I was setting it up today I'd be looking for a bluetooth phone mirroring to show consult or GPS data.

Yeah unfortunately the ej-1 is an aftermarket install so it is hard to say where it would be; mine is under the passenger seat. There is heaps of space under the main dash, they are not a large unit (say 300x150x10 ish) I would pull the dash cluster out as next step to see what is connected, and if it fires up OK with a known good video source.

Boot is a weird place to put it since it is a long way from everything it feeds but who knows. If you can find the video feed in the boot you can supply it to the dash to check. Otherwise pull the dash out and supply a video feed directly to make sure it works. These days some sort of phone mirroring bluetooth thingy would be the most obvious thing to supply to the LCD

Hi mate, good score. You don't really need an epsom ej-1 to drive the dash, although that was the most common way back in the day. The rear of the dash just has 12v+, 12v- and a standard yellow video in. Easy enough to test with the dash out if you can provide it 12v and a standard video feed. My guess is the LCD is dying/dead. I have/had this setup in my stagea and the screen died, and I have not been able to replace the screen itself. There is a part number on it but that was long out of production, I did have a guru looking into mounting something with the same size an resolution into the dash but no luck yet. If you have an ej-1 (ie, just screen is dead) it will be wired in to the ECU with about 10 wires, and it does have a remote control so you may find a remote control receiver somewhere or the remote itself.

Yeah the timing looks right for 15o, and the fact that it idles better with the wrong timing points to that being an issue; either Link is not set to expect 15o base, or the timing belt is a tooth off.

OK a few things. 1. You need to check and set the timing. It's been a long day so just let me suggest you search in our DIY section for a thread on it. You may need to check the Link ECU to make sure but I believe an RB25 should expect 15o BTDC. There is a loop for checking timing at the rear of the engine but even better if your timing light can get a signal from the coil pack loom at cylinder 1. 2. If you have both an AAC valve and a bypass screw on the throttle body, you should be setting the idle with the AAC. So back the throttle body screw right back so it is not holding the throttle blade open, then turn the screw anti clockwise to let more air through the AAC. 3. You mentioned you may have damaged the throttle installing the engine. Take the intake off the front of the throttle and turn the butterfly full open to closed a few times and make sure it is opening and closing smoothly, but this is unlikely to be an issue (if it was jamming it would probably jam partly open leading to more air, not less) 4. Link should be running and air intake sensor as it is MAP sensor based not AFM but that is unlikely to be the issue here unless the weather is totally different to when it was originally tuned. Also it is possible the TPS is not set properly so you should check the TPS voltage with the throttle closed.

Brand new engine could have a lot of air past the rings and out the cam covers. Not a particularly great breather setup as shown, at a minimum hook them both to a catch can filled with steel wool then vent to atm from there if you want atmo venting. If you are certain it is not an intake leak after the AFMs, most likely the timing is incorrect or the timing belt is a tooth out. You need to set the timing immediately after startup on a new engine. I can see you have FFP, how is the idle air controlled? Is there a cold air bypass of the throttle? BTW, if you had location in your profile it would have been easier to guess you were talking imperial not metric....

Well, japanese mechanics evidently have smaller hands than english mechanics for a start... A high mount turbo install is probably more complex than any task on a cortina, difficulty to do it yourself will depend on your comfort with fabrication. Assuming you are buying a manifold rather than making it, the manifold and turbo are probably bolt on (as long as they are designed for each other). The water feed and and return and oil feed and return will probably be custom lines and they should be braided and heat shielded, so that can be DIY as well depending on your comfort making lines. The intake piping and dump pipe to exhaust is probably the hard bit to do yourself as it will involve custom piping in different sizes that need welding, beads to hold silicone on etc. And you will likely need new ECU (plug in depending on what you choose), injectors (drop in, assuming correct model), fuel pump (generally minor work to mount in stock cradle), AFM (bolt on). Not impossible but a pretty big undertaking

Indeed....but a relay for what!?! It's not factory so you would need to trace the wires.