Duncan

Where on earth are you that they track toe in fractions of an inch! Adding location in your profile would help. Anyway, the camber front and rear is fine. Yes it could be a little less on the rear with adjustable bushes in the upper control arm, maybe -0.5 as a target, but it is not crazy. Adjustable bushes in the upper control arm are reasonably cheap to have done. However, I assume the issue you saw with "abnormal wear" was at the rear, with the "before" values above. If so it is the left rear toe that was the issue, it was miles out (kilometers out in most of the world) which means the tyre was not running straight on the road.

Hmm I'm a bit behind here, some updates to come. I can confirm that 295/30/18 yokos fit beautifully softs and were good for a 1.05.7 at wakie which is a fair bit quicker than I've gone in this car before (but of course, it is a much bigger and better tyre). But that is jumping a long way ahead....

Yep, that's correct :thumbsup:

Well, it is 9mm on a 32 GTR balancer, and they are either the same or interchangeable with 33/34. It's not flat to the centre as shown in the picture, there is a gap of about 3mm where I assume the rubber bonds the 2 parts together inside the balancer If you are making custom balancers consider shortening the raised lip between the AC and PS pulleys as it interferes with underdriven water pump pulleys like greddy.

Oh that is cruel Nissan, putting 2l single cam in an r33. I don't know how deep the troubles will be; wired in correctly the loom will cover the engine operation, but the gearbox is almost certainly electronically controlled and needs to talk to the ECU. So unless the AT control unit and ECU understand each other that will be a problem. It may be easier to go straight to manual Also....this sort of thing always costs much more than you expect if you are paying someone, because there will be a heap of unknowns you pay to fix by the hour. Don't start if your budget is tight already.

Not sure exactly what you mean by broken water pump, but if coolant is not flowing properly you need to start there Also, if it has been sitting 5 years everything in the fuel system is a problem. Definitely need to flush the tank and replace the filter like Bob said, but it is likely fuel pressure regulator, lines and even injectors will be gummed and failed. I'd replace all lines, FPR and have injectors flow tested before trying much more.

When Dose said solid, I'm sure he meant "not cross drilled" rather than "not vented"

Just out of interest, are you planning on sharing the outcome so others in this community can learn from your experience?

Whoa. I assumed it was a photoshop

Also, if the hose is OK, it might just need a proper hose clamp instead of a 30 year old spring clamp. Not exactly sure what the hose is but I think turbo water feed or return.

The number does not correlate to the year, they are just consecutive numbers There are probably lots of little changes along the way in different series. Easiest one I can think of it here is a sump on it is that R34 had a much longer diff ratio that the 4.1 in r32 and r33. But ultimately, other than knowing if the buyer was honest I'm not sure why it would matter. They are mechanically same same one the inside

Yeah the markings refer to the grades when it left factory. Best to accurately linish the crank for oversize bearings and just buy them at the right clearance. Most common option in Aus is ACL bearings but if you can get factory ones where you are that is an option. No bearing should be meaningfully "better", just get the clearances right

It's likely the only difference between them is a couple of wires for lights which show which gear the auto trans is in. Physically they will mount the same way and be the same shape, but the connectors are potentially different (noting Finn said it worked for him). Just post up a little more about specifically what the problem was....did it mount up OK? Did all the plugs fit? And if yes to both, what wasn't working?

My experience is with R32 GTR, being 10 years newer there may be easier ways to do it in an R34 It is a complete prick of a task. Ultimately I pressure bled the system - 4 calipers (8 nipples), in order of furthest to closet to the master cylinder (so RR, LR, RF, LF) and then the 2 nipples on the top of the ABS. Of course, since there was air in the ABS unit it was unsatisfactory, and since this was happening during a rally I needed to deal with it. So, after each stage I bled the ABS again (during the stage each time you trigger the abs all the little solenoids and things open and close moving air through the system). Still sucked. After the event I then did a full bleed and it came up good So, pressure bleeding makes it much easier because a single person can do it with less effort, and the ABS didn't come good simply by bleeding it static, it needed to be cycled a whole bunch of times before the air all moved out. Hopefully R34 has some sort of ABS bleeding mode you can put it in instead of having to drive it and activate ABS over and over again...

You need to check the resistance of the sender at full and empty to calibrate the gauge, I haven't checked how the IC7 does that yet. If it needs to be an ECU input you just plug the values into the fuel level calibration in the haltech. R32 GTR values are in the workshop manual from memory.

Now that is much more you than the previous hairdresser car. Add turbos please. Apparently a pair of GT3582 are the go.

Toyota 86...

Nissan dealers will be helpful if you need a genuine oil filter for a Dualis, and that's about all. Amayama is my first port, if I need to find something I can't I use Jesse Streeter who is an ausssie expat in Japan and is super helpful.

Well, required clearance comes down to your willingness to run unbalanced wheels and accept gouges in the wheels when rocks flick up.... For race use both are usually acceptable....but I'm not sure taking that chance is a good idea with post-US-25-years-rule prices on genuine skyline wheels...

I've actually got 330mm ksports under r34 gtr wheels on my stagea. (rough) measurements are: 410mm inner diameter of the wheel (18x9" R34 GTR standard) 40mm clearance either side of the disc (330+40+40=410mm) 20mm clearance from the caliper to the inner wheel (or to say it another way, they hug the disc nicely, only 20mm proud) Based on all that those 355s would fit fine - 12.5mm less clearance at the caliper still leaves 8.5mm clearance for a 355 kit. Of course, different 355 kits will have difference sizes, but generally you would expect a 355 kit to fit under 18s.

For looks or performance? Good 355mm rotors, pads and calipers will work up to and beyond 24 hour endurance racing. Assuming it's for looks I'd check out R35 brakes, I know that 18" wheels can be used on an R35, so those brakes must fit under 18s

Check out Lumley as well. My experience with Shannons is they were great with taking premiums, not so fair and reasonable with paying claims which I kind of thought was the point of insurance...

yeah not cheap but the engineering looks excellent. the skid factory on youtube just put one on a holden v8 and even it was able to make power!

Agreed, and this could almost certainly be made to fit https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/4x4-performance/supercharger/fdfi2300-nissan-y62-patrol-series-1-5-kit But, too much power to handle?

the point is, getting the bearing remains out is irrelevant. The engine needs to be disassembled, measure and rebuilt or simply replaced. if the bearing has spun enough to weld onto the journal, both surfaces are almost certainly f**ked and need machining. Potentially it is too badly damaged to even put oversize bearings in, but you can't tell without disassembling and measuring