Duncan

lol yep busted. 2 years old, 4 problems to check, and a cracked part? you are clearly meant to throw it away at the end of warranty and buy a new one

Exactly! What amazes me is that people were able to do new stuff before youtube videos. I never would have got anywhere without AvE's solutions to every problem.

lol, sounds like every day I try to work on a car Everything seems easier when it's a new day. Especially if it's not cold and rainy Plus, plenty of problems get solved in the sub conscious overnight that you'd probably never work out if you didn't take a break

Yeah that's why I was interested in experiences here. Looks like they were added to SEVS about 12 months ago so there must be some by now even if they were dealer imports that didn't sell well. http://rvcs-prodweb.dot.gov.au/sevs/D38-00 USED ELIGIBLE.htm. 4 RAWS available and not all in Vic which is handy right now! I actually think they are a little awkward on the outside but I'm driving it so won't notice Unfortunately Cima compliance stopped in 2004 when they went from DD to DE motor, and I am looking for something newer as it is for regular highway driving. Fuga is next best thing for that type of driving but only to 2009 (Y50) unless you go hybrid, so here I am.... Thanks Bob, yes I'll import but I've got that part under control. Was tempted by their free tank of fuel on Thursdays though Looking to keep the price a few thousand cheaper by importing as I'm not in any particular rush.

I'm looking into replacing the F50 Cima as the highway cruiser, it has been excellent but is a bit tired at 300,000klm. Are there any Y51 Fuga owners on here? Happy? Issues?

Well, there is a blank right above it in your car that looks suitable for mounting something. Or, if you always want to use the remote starter disconnect the factory button and either leave it unplugged (if remote works) or bridge the 2 terminals (if it doesn't work), then put spade terminals into the back of the factory switch for your kill switch. Personally I have absolutely no idea re the steering wheel, mine is a C34 which is all rb compatible where your M35 is renault era

well, if your preference is to have to buy all the hardware, whether you use the features or not, Haltech have that now too: https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-195000-nexus-r5-vcu/ And they've done some smart product development lately with the new CAN dashes and button setups But I reckon horses for courses. Almost every car doesn't use more than the basic ECU features so just use whatever your tuner prefers in your budget. I've got Link in the stagea, Haltech in the GTR, Uprev in the Titan and no ECU at all in the patrol :p, they all do what they need to.

That turns off the optional factory remote start system. Dealer fitted accessory, mine was mounted at the top of the driver's kick panel. Comes with about a mile of addition wiring under the dash too for maximum clutter

with the caveat that mine is on an rb30 in a w34 not r34... there is heaps of room to the ABS module and lines. The turbo is not parallel with the engine it is angled inwards at the rear/outwards at the front. The dump is close to the AC lines (insulation added) but nowhere near ABS. The turbo compressor housing is forward of the strut tower and pretty close to the PS reservoir. Basically...it's been made for that setup and uses the space well.

Ahh ok. We used to be able to do that back before the apocalypse too

toyota 86 to harley in a year. you've changed man

Not sure about your exact needs, but I'd suggest not using one, and in particular not buying a second hand one....you don't know that a second handie didn't come off a motor with a spun bearing, and I can't think of any way to properly clean one out. There are better options like rb30 remote oil filter mount or stagea (mount without the oil/water warmer) if you are OK to change the stock setup

what sort of person lives in Laggan and doesn't need a log splitter! I'm not that far up and more easter (other side of the cookbundoons). In fact, just about half way between Wakefield and Pheasant's Brush....coincidence I'm sure...

I still drop by when they make me for work, and am based just north of Goulburn these days so ACT is the big smoke for me....

There's no simple rule for tyre pressures, different tyres work best at different pressures. Avon hillclimb slicks about 15psi, and Kumho V70a about 42psi. Most common hot pressure range is 32-34 in a track tyre but you need to try it out and see.

Whereabouts are you; no location in your profile.....

I'll have a double check but that is the sort of module I would chuck because I'd never need one. Without going too far off topic, is there a reason you need to keep it in the system? Running a separate full voltage wire from the battery (via a relay of course) would give you better flow from the pump....

ultimately, if you are enjoying it as it is go for it. But I am telling you there are at least 5 seconds more in that car and it is clear from the vid that either the tyres don't have the grip of a good track tyre, or you don't have confidence they have grip. This is an old vid (2014) but it is 1.06.9 in my gtr that has less power (250kw) and very laggy with early 90s bush bearing turbos which is not gerat for a tight track like wakie. Tyres were 235/45/17 Hankook z221, so smaller than what you were running. You'll see they key difference is braking later, faster mid corner and accelerating sooner which all comes down to capability of the tyres. I'm sure you'll enjoy tracking the car more with proper tyres under it, and neither AR1 not NT01 are good track tyres. Hankook Z221 are my preference for performance at a better price, but yoko a050 and dunlop DZ03 are better if you quickest tyres. If you don't have dedicated track rims pick up a cheap set and just swap when you get there. Smallest diameter that will fit over your brakes (eg 17s) keeps the tyre cost down

As well as aussie sites (the 4 stud non turbo rotors aren't that common) you should consider straight from japan. Try someone like Jesse Streeter. Big problem no matter where they come from is air freight is mega expensive right now because there are no planes to put them on, if you are in hurry to get them it will hurt. A faster alternative is to find something larger local where the offset between the hat and the rotor is the same. A machine shop can reduce the diameter in a lathe and then drill out the hole for the stud pattern you need. Unfortunately they guys I usually use to check rotor spec dba.com.au, don't have a listing for a 280mm rotor for an r33 gts sedan.

you can bet the japanese have been laughing at Australian asking prices for their old cars for about 30 years. Getting cars registered in the US sounds even harder than here. These cars are worth what people are willing to pay and you can bet Anonymous will have the only one on the street....much better to see than all the ones out here that were getting crashed into poles and sent to sims metal by skid kids. I agree exactly with this. And as long as there is no sign of oil leaks where it is parked, it runs OK and no big clunks on the test drive, drive it home and enjoy it. BTW, what is an "air fare". Is flying a pre-apocalypse thing?

looks like fun, but shit mate, you can't spend that much on a car and not put track tyres on it. put something decent on and give it another go, you had barely any time at full throttle

Are you after the socket you pictured or the plug with loom that plugs into it. And where are you located (no location in profile...) I probably have a plug I don't need, but I would have binned the unit with socket. On the bright side there should be plenty of them that people have removed when they direct wired their pumps

That's not ideal. Time to drive around with your phone GPS speed or something because that is box out and disassmble to fix....

Most likely a power steering leak (is it power steering fluid, or oil they feel quite different) Clean it all with degreaser and water and then check again in a couple of days to see where it is coming from.

See that's the thing to me.....ATTKD R34 355mm 6 spot kit is $2150 and comes with new calipers, 2 piece rotors, pads, brakes lines vs Alpha Omega 355 Evo : $1924 for used calipers and no pads, or approx $3610 for rebuilt/coated caliper , 2 piece disc and $400 pads caliper adapters $400 brake lines $145 1 piece rotors $499 (or like for like, 2 piece $1,300) used evo calipers ($880, potentially +$145 for seals, +$300 for rebuild service + $390 powder coat) Doesn't add up to me. At best you save $200 and have lucky dip of 2nd hand caliper quality and no pads. BTW I run 324 rotors and 4 spot calipers on my r32 GTR race car and they don't fade including endurance racing and long tarmac rally stages. Bigger rotors like 355 aren't necessary unless you have big to huge power (400+) and do heavy track work. Of course, 355 looks better under 18s if that is your goal.