Duncan

I don't know if it will fix the problem in your case, but the oil cap vent is the quickest bandaid way to improve things to find out....

If they are leaking from the banjo fitting just back it off a 1/8 turn and then tighten again. They run copper washers and these can reseat when you do that. Both lines into both turbos are prone to have the flare fitting seize onto the line so be very careful if you decide to try and back them off and reseat them as you can twist and break the hard line (this is also a likely failure point on the hard line if someone has been in there before you). I actually don't know if you can replace the lines with turbos on, I've only ever done it when I had the turbos off anyway. Even if it is possible to do with the turbos in place it may well be quicker to do it with them off.

well you beat me to my suggestion since it's a 34 GTR ? seriously....find a more traditional panel beater who has the old skills to make them, not a modern guy who just buys bits and glues them back on.

early start at about 5am to get there, but we'll bring the car out for a run, see y'all tomorrow

Also, if the engine is super new, give the rings some time to bed in before being too worried. Make sure you run it pretty hard rather than just idling or driving at low load. One quick fix that will work better than a dipstick vent is to vent via the oil cap. Just put on a alloy cap and weld a large dash fitting on

I was not aware of an electrical difference, just cosmetic between series 1 and 2....I'd start with checking if temperature, rpm and speed (out) are all on the same plug that was not seated properly when you put it back in. The speedo itself is mechanical and is often installed incorrectly onto the cable (sounds like yours is OK), but the dash provides the speed signal conversion for the ECU and probably HICAS. Also, when you say power steering stops woking, I assume you mean you get less assistance, not none at all. If HICAS gets no speed signal it gets heavier but you should still have some power assist; I run mine without the speed signal at all times and find it OK.

The traditional japanese method involves a 1kg fire extinguisher in one inlet at the AFM, and an oil filter with no internals and a hole drilled in the top for the pressure source

Also, there are at least 4 different specs of n1 turbos R32 n1 were bush bearing only and about as laggy as -5 but make probably 20% less power. You would only choose them if you were racing in a class that required the factory turbos for example R33 n1 were ball bearing and a little smaller, and in R34 there were smaller and larger rear housing options. Either way these are roughly equivalent to -7 and -9 respectively, but more expensive The "best" turbo always depends on your power target and how responsive you want them to be. For road driving where you are looking for a little more than standard (say 20-30%), -9 is a great compromise. BTW there is a really long thread with people's actual experiences with rb26 dyno results, suggest having a skim if you want a range of experiences.

Good choice to replace it. i'll bet nissan properly engineered the rb30 bolt and torque specs, and that a properly torqued factory bolt has never come undone. The problem comes in when timing belts etc get changed long after they'v'e left the factory.

I don't have the exact figures close but rb26 is different and much higher than rb25/20/30....if you are using the factory bolt, use the number from the workshop manual.

Sounds like an interesting project. I don't have the figures to confirm, but in our production car racing we have the cams measured before being sealed into the engine. The measuring is done by Camtech in Sydney, so they must have the data you are after for the stock cams.

You dropping by for a beer mate? Pretty sure the 86 won't make it down the last road to our place since the last floods though....so we may have to set up chairs on the corner

Great story, although it feels a bit like one of those movies with flash backs and flash forwards and you can never really tell where you are up to in time. More fail pics!

It really does sound like a bleeding issue. A mismatched master cylinder creates a long but consistent pedal.

Big end bearings. I always keep a box handy for emergencies.

standard turbo will pretty much get there, so at most a high flow standard turbo with a bit more boost will do it - then you don't have to change any of the intake, exhaust, fittings etc.

It will work fine, as long as you are still running the air flow meter of course. Having a BOV connected will help prevent stalling when the throttle shuts suddenly which can be hard to tune for with an AFM That was pretty similar to what I had been running for years on a PFC before I went a little sillier on the new engine...

I disagree, PowerFC with Handcontroller ($800-1000) will show everything OP requested plus much more (ecu inputs status, ability to set basic parameters, and even full tune if really necessary) for less than half the price of a haltech/link etc with dash. I've just replaced the PFC with a Link in the stagea and miss the hand controller, am looking at adding OBD port and OBD display to the Link but everything is more $$$ to do what the PFC already did. Yes they are more capable ECUs but for a standard or lightly modified car PFC have been doing the job perfectly for decades.

Bolts hold something in place using friction (tightness), they don't locate them. Spacers might help you assemble it in place but properly torqued nuts on the studs will hold the manifold in place regardless of the size of the hole vs size of the stud

Thanks for coming back to confirm what happened, may help future people with similar problems

Yes, that is a push clutch. I can't confirm the trans as I'm not familiar with the 2wd ones by sight.

jesus why are you trying to run your car on gas instead of petrol? Our mate Mark converted his GTR to gas but you can't expect to just put gas in the tank and not have it waft back out????

Generally it works the other way; find a broker you trust and the inspection is included in their cost.

Well, I can confirm they are the part numbers for my 32 gtr's vin as well. Mix door actuator - 27732-01U00 Mode door actuator - 27731-53E00 My understanding (of the impossible FAST diagram section 270) is that part code 27733N is just the actuator, while 27733NA is the actuator, bracket and wiring. Also, I have a heater box on the shelf and can take some pics if you need. No part number on either actuator to confirm physically though. Are you just trying to replace both as preventative, or is there a problem you are trying to fix?

pm sent