Duncan

lots of ways this can go wrong, primarily because the shifter goes into the transfer case, not the gearbox. So, transfer case could have 4l of gear oil in it (not good for it, and likely to cause plenty of splashing). Yes, the shifter boot is the primary thing keeping the transfer case oil in, secure it with a big cable tie. There should be a gasket between the housing and shift housing but that is much less likely to be a source of leak, and can just be silicone if you don't have a gasket handy.

No reason the MLS should not seal as well or better than stock head gasket, particularly if you add hylomar. If it was me and the weep is minor, I'd live with it, big job to fix.

Modern German cars have a system built into the BMCs and CAN that turn on one of a set of random errors each 18 months for the life of the car to ensure you get rid of it and buy a brand new one just after warranty finishes.

yes, it is most likely a turbo timer. If not in the alarm, back in the day they were pretty common as an extra box plugged into the back of the key switch's wiring. Take off the plastic under the steering column, trace back the large wires from the back of the key switch, and see if they lead to a small electronic box. If so, they generally have 2 plugs (one male, one female) so you can just unplug both, move the box, and then just plug the remaining wires in the car back together to remove it.

33/34 sensors may fit physically in the dumps and have the right connectors (1x3 pin, 1x4 pin) but they won't necessarily behave properly with the 32 ECU as they may be a different chemistry (titania vs zirconia), I'm not sure if they are. The fact that 32 and 33 ECU is interchangeable probably means they will be OK

sorry, my point was that the o2 sensors you need match the ECU, not the engine. I may not be asking enough to understand the specifics, but if you have put the engine in a something, and need new o2 sensors, the model of engine doesn't matter. It's the ECU that needs matching sensors. So, if you are putting it in something original (pic suggests you put the half cut engine in an r32) and have the original ECU, that is the type of o2 sensor you need. If you have put the engine in something else, you need to identify the ECU's model, not the engine's. FWIW the fuel rail is 33/34 not 32 style, and as you said the CAS is not 32 style either

AFAIK Nismo addition was simply a GTR with larger (N1) turbos (for homologation purposes), and not particularly rare despite the naming. Not really limited edition, and no larger brakes or wheels like later v-specs or N1s

you'd match the o2 sensor to your ecu ( or chassis if original), not engine, it that helps.

Agree this is the best and quickest way if the trailer is set up for it. Otherwise, I tie it exactly as per your pic

Also, if you have a sunroof there is a drain that can clog as well. But I'd guess heater core leak at that location

Nothing particularly tricky about an r34 compared to anything else, unless it is a vspec with the carbon fibre undertrays in place which would make it much harder to get to chassis tie down points. (eg, around the rear subframe) These days I always just use wheel tie downs, I have an open trailer and they are very quick and secure. Unfortunately if you are using an enclosed trailer you will be somewhat at the mercy of the available tie down points in the trailer, and depending on width it can be hard to get to the wheels to tie down there

lol I had to double check my post because I thought about suggesting that, then didn't. But with 32 gtr prices these days maybe a gts4 half cut would be a cheap way to fix the problem.

Sorry to be negative....but you are a bit stuffed. The only information on bolt length is in some specific cases in the workshop manual where it matters, eg oil pump bolts. There is also some information on generic torque specs at the front of the manual for bolt sizes, but the individual diagrams show the actual torque for each application. In nissan bolts of that age: m6 - 10mm head m8 - 12mm head m10 - 17mm head m12 - 19mm head not much under m6 or above m12 but they are generally 8mm or 21mm. As for bolt pitch, they are almost always standard (coarse), but the gearbox cross member ones are fine pitch. Coarse vs fine is a standard for metric bolts that varies depending on bolt size (eg m8) As for length, no such doco unless there is something specific in the service manual. Also there are some bolts like the rear shock lower arm or rear control arm upper arm inner bolts that are specific (shock bolts have a conical end to assist insertion, and upper control arm inner bolts have camber adjustment). I know you can't undo it, but.....KEEP YOUR BOLTS NEXT TIME!

Odyssey batteries are the same type as optima (AGM) and will weigh about the same for the same capacity. If you want a significantly lighter battery you need to look at Lithium ones

I definitely understand your frustration at this point...but the good news is that if changing the fuel pump changed the behaviour, you have found and fixed a problem. You may be close to fixing it. If the pump was always an issue and the emanage was tuned with a faulty pump, a properly working pump will mean you need a retune. I'd run it up on a dyno with someone who can monitor and correct the AFR and you may be pleasantly surprised (well, it will still be a M35 not a C34, but there's not much to do about that without parting it out....)

Probably a dumb question....but you've removed all 4 bolts from underneath, right? pic only shows where 2 of them should have been. Other than that....no trick...must just be a nasty old gasket, possibly some sort of incorrect sealant in the past.

Awesome DIY, thanks

well, I'll start by saying my experience is 32 not 33 gtr. I have the hub moved a fair way out by spacing out the lower control arm mounting. I don't have the exact measurement handy and don't want to guess. But the point is, both the bottom of the wheel (and the hub) are a fair way wider than standard, and no I've never had a problem with driveshaft length Is the piece GKTech making just the black part in the picture or the whole bearing/stub axle part? I could measure up driveshaft diameter front vs rear to confirm diameter fits, and you should check you have sufficient thread on the head of the driveshaft to get the nut on properly if diameter is the same. I think you'd also have to confirm the ABS sensor still runs across the teeth OK. Overall....seems like a lot of work to deal with something that may not be an issue. If it was I'd go custom driveshaft with a longer centre shaft rather than all this stuffing around at the hub

get a shorter driver or taller car?

Well, 20 attessa flashes is covered on page CH-74, and "faulty harness" is one of the potential causes. But when you look at the terminals involved in that error they are between the attessa relay, attessa ECU and attessa pumps. None of them are in the harness you showed. On CH-66 however, it shows reverse light being an input to the attessa ECU (perhaps it disengages in reverse?) so that short may be your issue. It is powered by fuse #21 and goes via the switch to pin 32 of the attessa ECU I'd start with cutting the ends of those wires flush so they are not shorting to earth to see if that clears the error

Yeah can be done, undo nut with spanner and use ball joint splitter. But generally if you are trying to remove the lower arm you are trying to remove the whole hub so you'd remove the driveshaft first (biggest nut first rule)

Oh and power steering rack wiring is for the speed sensitive steering that most people hate. I imagine you haven't noticed a difference....no idea if it is safe to connect them wrong way around, but since they are same colour in the original loom and same connectors....just plug in and see if sparks fly and fuse blows, or if your power steering works...

The 2 you circled with covers are the gearbox reverse and neutral switches. It's possible they are 12v/+ switched (they definitely are in stagea, I remember having to fix one) so you've probably blown at least 1 fuse as well. As per the pic they are a long piece of loom that run straight past the front drive shaft so very likely they are the culprit. Neutral switch doesn't matter on a GTR (it is a signal to the ECU, but I have no idea why) but reverse obviously means you have no reverse lights. I have an original/printed manual so remind me before the weekend and I can dig out the colour for each part The other one you circled with the rubber boot is the oil pressure sender. Been too long since I looked at a standard dash but I'm pretty sure it has an oil pressure gauge so you will be able to tell when you start the car if that is connected and working.

Yep, that's official. nissan even have a part# for the bracket you can bolt there if for some reason a simple bolt in one of the holes isn't suffciient

Well like so much in life WA is a bit different ? AFAIK they run a modified version of CAMS IPRA rules there. But otherwise no, and no in tarmac rally was well (GTRs are in early modern LMS which requires factory shifting). Time attack is different again, not having a sequential there would be like turning up with a thousand hp. Bottom line, most racing gearboxes in Oz are either standard or dog+straight cut H patterns.