Duncan

Probably a dumb question....but you've removed all 4 bolts from underneath, right? pic only shows where 2 of them should have been. Other than that....no trick...must just be a nasty old gasket, possibly some sort of incorrect sealant in the past.

Awesome DIY, thanks

well, I'll start by saying my experience is 32 not 33 gtr. I have the hub moved a fair way out by spacing out the lower control arm mounting. I don't have the exact measurement handy and don't want to guess. But the point is, both the bottom of the wheel (and the hub) are a fair way wider than standard, and no I've never had a problem with driveshaft length Is the piece GKTech making just the black part in the picture or the whole bearing/stub axle part? I could measure up driveshaft diameter front vs rear to confirm diameter fits, and you should check you have sufficient thread on the head of the driveshaft to get the nut on properly if diameter is the same. I think you'd also have to confirm the ABS sensor still runs across the teeth OK. Overall....seems like a lot of work to deal with something that may not be an issue. If it was I'd go custom driveshaft with a longer centre shaft rather than all this stuffing around at the hub

get a shorter driver or taller car?

Well, 20 attessa flashes is covered on page CH-74, and "faulty harness" is one of the potential causes. But when you look at the terminals involved in that error they are between the attessa relay, attessa ECU and attessa pumps. None of them are in the harness you showed. On CH-66 however, it shows reverse light being an input to the attessa ECU (perhaps it disengages in reverse?) so that short may be your issue. It is powered by fuse #21 and goes via the switch to pin 32 of the attessa ECU I'd start with cutting the ends of those wires flush so they are not shorting to earth to see if that clears the error

Yeah can be done, undo nut with spanner and use ball joint splitter. But generally if you are trying to remove the lower arm you are trying to remove the whole hub so you'd remove the driveshaft first (biggest nut first rule)

Oh and power steering rack wiring is for the speed sensitive steering that most people hate. I imagine you haven't noticed a difference....no idea if it is safe to connect them wrong way around, but since they are same colour in the original loom and same connectors....just plug in and see if sparks fly and fuse blows, or if your power steering works...

The 2 you circled with covers are the gearbox reverse and neutral switches. It's possible they are 12v/+ switched (they definitely are in stagea, I remember having to fix one) so you've probably blown at least 1 fuse as well. As per the pic they are a long piece of loom that run straight past the front drive shaft so very likely they are the culprit. Neutral switch doesn't matter on a GTR (it is a signal to the ECU, but I have no idea why) but reverse obviously means you have no reverse lights. I have an original/printed manual so remind me before the weekend and I can dig out the colour for each part The other one you circled with the rubber boot is the oil pressure sender. Been too long since I looked at a standard dash but I'm pretty sure it has an oil pressure gauge so you will be able to tell when you start the car if that is connected and working.

Yep, that's official. nissan even have a part# for the bracket you can bolt there if for some reason a simple bolt in one of the holes isn't suffciient

Well like so much in life WA is a bit different ? AFAIK they run a modified version of CAMS IPRA rules there. But otherwise no, and no in tarmac rally was well (GTRs are in early modern LMS which requires factory shifting). Time attack is different again, not having a sequential there would be like turning up with a thousand hp. Bottom line, most racing gearboxes in Oz are either standard or dog+straight cut H patterns.

people with coin to spend on their street cars I can't speak for drag racing but circuit racing in Aus won't allow for sequential boxes in anything gtr based.

sounds like the distributor leads are out of order....so I'd suspect failed CAS first. But, has it ever run in the current setup? has something changed lately? what ECU is it, and can you check RPM through the ECU?

Well, I'd say they are both helical simply because most buyers are street cars, and straight cut boxes are too noisy for most people. Not to say it can't be done, but the whine is unavoidable and annoying without a helmet on... The actual market for race boxes is much smaller, and there are specialist suppliers.

Well....check under the bonnet for a green relay you can live without for a moment and swap it into the boot....

When you say 'it turns over and dies instantly' I guess you mean it does start at least momentarily, rather than just turning over and not starting? Starting with the relay, there are 2 in the boot, either side of the lock. The larger one is for 4wd and is often the cause of regular clicking, which is generally a problem with the accumulator needing to be recharged or replaced. The smaller relay (either green or blue, can't remember) is the fuel pump relay. It sounds to me like a fuel supply problem and the most obvious reason is being our of petrol. If not I'd get a multi meter onto the fuel pump terminals to make sure there is battery voltage for the first 3 seconds when someone turns the key to IGN. That should confirm there is power where there should be which would say dead fuel pump. Otherwise if there is no power there, there is some electrical issue so you'd look at relays, fuses to the fuel pump

I know I'm answering a question with a question...but where did you find a PAR gearset? The business has changed a lot over time, moving from local to offshore and then returning to very small scale/specialist local setup. Yes, it would be true that any new gears are a very different setup to when they were having quality control issues from the offshore factory.

welcome to Stagea ownership, I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I've had mine for more than 10 years and 300,000klm and it's been excellent. And odd. BTW, I can correct one thing on your list above: Uses way too much fuel for the way I drive - this may be due to a rich tune.(known issue with Stageas)

#ruralyf The only way to get a delivery reliably is to go to the depot and pick it up. Most annoying is that the receiver never gets to choose the freight company, it is always what is cheap and convenient to the sender, even though the receiver pays for the "service"

It's unlikely (but not impossible) the ECU will be able to tell you much about why it stalls. When does it run OK, and when does it stall? does it ever run rough or misfire/hesitate? Is it better when cold or hot? Does it only happen when moving?

well, bolts are 01111-00051 washers 08915-1381A, nuts 08911-2081A. All seem to be available at amayama

Fitting F50 to the front is straightforward and has been done many times. They just need the correct adapter to space them properly to whatever disc you choose. With the rear, that is a lot tricker. Firstly, no real need to upgrade the rear brakes, they are pretty adequate from factory for pretty much any use. Secondly you need to work out a handbrake setup; the factory rear brakes apply the handbrake to a drum inside the rear disc, so using a front brake setup there will be missing all that. Thirdly, with the pretty large front brakes on the rear you will have big rear bias problems, and need a different master cylinder. And you need to machine the rear hub to locate the front caliper correctly. All way too much trouble for something that doesn't need changing in the first place....

pic helps! they are both ball joints and practically speaking you need a ball joint separator to deal with it like I mentioned at the end of my earlier post

265 will fit fine, it will depend on the offset of the wheel.

so, 2 problems: 1. bolt where the lower control arm joins the hub is seized? 2. you can't remove the driveshaft from the hub, even though you've removed the nut etc? For 1 the answer is pretty much you need a longer lever. Either a bigger breaker bar, a pair of spanners hooked on each other for extra leverage or even something like a jack handle or long piece of pipe over the breaker bar. Make sure everything is really stable on jack stands first. Also, a bit of heat where the nut meets the bolt eg a blow torch can really help, also sometimes putting a socket on the nut, and then giving it a couple of good whacks with a heavy hammer can unstick it. Basically, with enough leverage either the nut will come undone or the bolt will break, either way it is off. If you can't get there for some reason, cut the bolt with an angle grinder. For 2, you need to put the nut back on about 80% so that it is just above level with the end of the dravishaft, then hit it with a heavy hammer until it starts moving. If you hit it without a nut on and it is a bit tight (sounds like it is), you are likely to wreck the threads on the end of the driveshaft which would require repair before you can use it again. Once it is freed up you obviously need to remove the nut to slide the driveshaft out full. Depending where you are up to in the job, you may also have trouble ahead with removing the steering/hicas arm ball joint. The best thing for these, assuming you need to reuse the ball joint, is the scissor type, not fork type of ball joint separator

Anyway, vibration at speed (regardless of revs) is something between the gearbox and the road. Tyres are by far the most likely (I know you've said you've had them checked, but maybe see if you can borrow a different set of wheels/tyres and try again).