Duncan

Firstly, there is nothing wrong with a PFC, they've been reliably running rbs for decades. Yes there are newer ECUs with additional features but a PFC is able to run it perfectly until you start to get pretty highly modified. The afm curve is not really that important. Pick whatever is closest and then just tune it. Basically your fuel map is based on whatever the AFM is telling it for load, so whatever it is set to when you tune is fine. Just don't change it after you tune it! If you are trying to put back an unknown AFM curve so your tune will be OK again, you are out of luck. Even 1% different to the original curve can be enough to make the tune unsafe. FWIW I do have the rb26 data for standard, vg30, vh41, power intake and the calculated result I used for nismo afms per GTSBoy's approach because I went through that (turns out vg30 and nismo afms are not exactly the same after all) but it was pre-tuning, and it was never really worth the effort because you still just tune the result the same way

It's just a stud in a thread, but it could be seized. Couple of tricks -spray well with penetrating oil over a day or 3 -heat often loosens these things, eg a 15sec with a blow torch -with a nut just protruding, give it a firm hit with a hammer to loosen the threads. if it is the lock nut coming undone from the 2nd nut you need to tighten them. If you think there is too much force and they still are not turning, try those 3 tricks

This is a really simple question....but did you centre the rack before putting the steering wheel on?

reading out of order! good finding. missing a 1 on the tensioner stud

actually, I seem to have the tensioner stud part (13073-V5001) but not the idler bolt. please double check before trusting the internet!

well, sorry to bring bad news, but at least you know before it's all back together. I'd strongly recommend you change the bolt and stud that hold the idler and tensioner at the same time. There have been instances of old bolt snapping which throws the timing belt off, and will result in piston/valve damage in the engine.

Firstly the bad news is that side A goes into the engine, and side B faces out. Sounds like you have them the other way around. Those caps are just baffle plates to reduce oil spraying around, you remove them first if you need to remove the cam caps. No need to touch them if you are just doing the timing belt You should really replace the idler and tensioner bearings, and the bolt and stud respectively that hold them when you do the timing belt. The tensioner spring is actually held on the small stud you can see to the right of the tensioner in your pic, not the water pump bolt. When you have lined the new belt up properly (tensioner held back with an alley key, nut loose) you release the allen key so the tensioner is on the spring, rotate the motor twice using the balancer and the tension will be correct (tighten the tensioner nut).

Agreed. It is possible to snap a cam either removing or installing it if you are a gorilla. But if you take it incrementally it is perfectly safe.

It left the factory KH3 which I believe is black

The ECU connector is totally different (2 row vs 3 row), you need the non-neo one to match your car. They should come up all the time, r33 rb25 Power FC is reasonably common, r34 neo rb25 less so

Best to post up here, and I think you will need to provide your vin

I've got an R auction car in Oz, my cima had a rear end accident and quality repair. The car has been complied in Australia and there is no sign of the repair, and no problem with the car for more than 200,000klm now. Simply, I'd go for it, particularly for race use, as long as a broker I trusted inspected in directly.

Yes, multiple ways to deal with it. But the one that doesn't cost 00s or 000s is small wheel spacers. If they are legal where you are.

That's your caster rod/ radius rod. Basically, the tyre is to wide for the offset of your wheels. You may have previously had tyres the "same" size but in practice different tyre manufacturers have different actual tyre sizes for a nominated size like 225/50r16 Easiest solution, assuming you have plenty of thread on your wheel nuts, is to add a 5mm alloy spacer, which will push the wheel out 5mm, assuming they are legal where you are.

Agreed. Although head gasket is the most likely (but not) only reason for 2 adjacent cylinders to have low compression

hmmm, actually there is some problem moving it, will try and work it out...

Sorry mate, didn't realise it was in the wrong section, fixed. And your helper looks about as helpful as the ones at my place.... Centre lock is a big step, it will definitely restrict your wheel choice (and price) too. Radicals do it by bolting an adapter onto the standard 4 stud ford ka hub that they use, but that doesn't save you weight or get you a better quality wheel bearing.

As long as it is warm but not overheating, oil pressure is right and the tune is good, you should do everything to it, all the time, except hit the rev limiter more than briefly. If you are doing track work on good tyres, oil surge causing loss of oil pressure can be an issue. If your tune is not right for your fuel octane, or you have a fuel system problem (failing pump, pump wiring, clogged injectors, failing regulator) it could ping and melt a piston (keep an ear out for that, it is a distinctive "rock in a tin can noise") If your timing belt, and the idler and tensioner bearings have not been replaced every 100,000, do so ASAP. If it is misfiring, stop pushing it and sort out the problem (many causes) If it uses oil between changes (I'd suggest every 5-10,000klm depending on what you use and how you treat it), start saving for a rebuild (head and/or bottom end)

Generally, because test conditions and procedures vary, you'd be looking for consistency in the result (which you do have) more than the specific numbers. Apart from actual engine problems, bigger cams can lead to lower results, but so can incorrectly calibrated gauge, poor battery charge, test technique etc etc It is higher klm so you should expect some ring wear by now, I'd keep an eye out for white smoke and oil consumption between oil changes, that should give you a good indication if they are worn. In any case, those results are no sign you are about to have a sudden failure. Maybe just start saving for a rebuild (cost will vary based on how much you do at the same time)

I'm limited in what I can change by production car rules, I have to run standard pump but can (and have) changed the pulley to underdriven. I had issues with leaking from the cap until I added a reasonable sized cooler but it has been OK since. HICAS is removed and so are the vanes in the rear stage of the pump so it doesn't die from pushing against the blocked off line. I also lost a belt once but NFI why as nothing had changed recently, and only once in 10 years race/rally

r32 hicas has 2 outlets from the power steer pump...and that pic (while difficult to see clearly), seems to have 2 outlets.

Hi Josh, I'd suggest calling Unigroup as they are not too far and may well have a consult 3 or something that will work. If not, Gary at Just Jap (further away) is almost certain to have the technology you need. All the best with a CVT issue, they can be a bit tricky, you may need to talk to Just Jap due to their experience resolving those issues. V35 were pretty early for high torque CVTs and I think they are problematic sometimes.

pm replied, with manual

well the good news is that is likely to be straightforward....the hazard light positive is earthed somewhere... first, unhook the flasher unit and replace the fuse, does it still blow? Yes, replace flasher, no, you have a wiring issue. It's not impossible it is a globe but unlikely (you could pull out each globe in turn and see if that resolves the issue, don't forget the locally added side repeaters in the guard). Nissan (or amayama) should have the flasher, if not an aftermarket replacement is an option but you will need to connect the terminals correctly. If it is a wiring issue you really need to start pulling things apart to access the wiring to find the problem, or if that doesn't sound like fun take it to an auto electrician. Another possibility, as it is non turbo, is to just set it on fire and put the video on youtube, hopefully the advertising income will exceed the value of the car.

Our dam has been equally kind over the years as the drought has gone on. Got a hilux alternator from it the other week