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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. My experience is with R32 GTR, being 10 years newer there may be easier ways to do it in an R34 It is a complete prick of a task. Ultimately I pressure bled the system - 4 calipers (8 nipples), in order of furthest to closet to the master cylinder (so RR, LR, RF, LF) and then the 2 nipples on the top of the ABS. Of course, since there was air in the ABS unit it was unsatisfactory, and since this was happening during a rally I needed to deal with it. So, after each stage I bled the ABS again (during the stage each time you trigger the abs all the little solenoids and things open and close moving air through the system). Still sucked. After the event I then did a full bleed and it came up good So, pressure bleeding makes it much easier because a single person can do it with less effort, and the ABS didn't come good simply by bleeding it static, it needed to be cycled a whole bunch of times before the air all moved out. Hopefully R34 has some sort of ABS bleeding mode you can put it in instead of having to drive it and activate ABS over and over again...
  2. You need to check the resistance of the sender at full and empty to calibrate the gauge, I haven't checked how the IC7 does that yet. If it needs to be an ECU input you just plug the values into the fuel level calibration in the haltech. R32 GTR values are in the workshop manual from memory.
  3. Now that is much more you than the previous hairdresser car. Add turbos please. Apparently a pair of GT3582 are the go.
  4. Nissan dealers will be helpful if you need a genuine oil filter for a Dualis, and that's about all. Amayama is my first port, if I need to find something I can't I use Jesse Streeter who is an ausssie expat in Japan and is super helpful.
  5. Well, required clearance comes down to your willingness to run unbalanced wheels and accept gouges in the wheels when rocks flick up.... For race use both are usually acceptable....but I'm not sure taking that chance is a good idea with post-US-25-years-rule prices on genuine skyline wheels...
  6. I've actually got 330mm ksports under r34 gtr wheels on my stagea. (rough) measurements are: 410mm inner diameter of the wheel (18x9" R34 GTR standard) 40mm clearance either side of the disc (330+40+40=410mm) 20mm clearance from the caliper to the inner wheel (or to say it another way, they hug the disc nicely, only 20mm proud) Based on all that those 355s would fit fine - 12.5mm less clearance at the caliper still leaves 8.5mm clearance for a 355 kit. Of course, different 355 kits will have difference sizes, but generally you would expect a 355 kit to fit under 18s.
  7. For looks or performance? Good 355mm rotors, pads and calipers will work up to and beyond 24 hour endurance racing. Assuming it's for looks I'd check out R35 brakes, I know that 18" wheels can be used on an R35, so those brakes must fit under 18s
  8. Check out Lumley as well. My experience with Shannons is they were great with taking premiums, not so fair and reasonable with paying claims which I kind of thought was the point of insurance...
  9. yeah not cheap but the engineering looks excellent. the skid factory on youtube just put one on a holden v8 and even it was able to make power!
  10. Agreed, and this could almost certainly be made to fit https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/4x4-performance/supercharger/fdfi2300-nissan-y62-patrol-series-1-5-kit But, too much power to handle?
  11. the point is, getting the bearing remains out is irrelevant. The engine needs to be disassembled, measure and rebuilt or simply replaced. if the bearing has spun enough to weld onto the journal, both surfaces are almost certainly f**ked and need machining. Potentially it is too badly damaged to even put oversize bearings in, but you can't tell without disassembling and measuring
  12. Getting the bearing off the rod and crank is of no relevance, both will need to be measured and almost certainly machined before they could be re-used, let the machine shop sort it. BTW if it has spun that badly everything where oil goes needs to be disassembled and cleaned or replaced including any oil cooler and factory water/oil cooler. If machining/rebuilding is out of budget throw them in the bin and put a second hand engine in.
  13. shit mark, glad you are OK. But if an 86 is too much to handle, what possible option is there to downgrade to?
  14. Not sure where you are (no location in your profile), but just jap seems to have these in stock brand new https://justjap.com/nissan-passenger-side-air-vent-assembly-nissan-skyline-r32.html
  15. Well, what it originally left the factory with is stamped on the chassis plate on the firewall. R32 GTST came with rb20det not rb25det, although some late r32 gts came with rb25de no t. But I guess you are asking if you have an rb25det motor with a turbo removed, or an rb25de. One way to tell should be a compression test as the rb25det will have lower compression, not sure other certain ways because it seems some rb25de blocks had plugged ports for the oil feed and oil return instead of nothing at all (although, no oil ports would confirm rb25de) Quick search on here suggests 75T was the casting number for both rb25de and rb25det from R33 gtst, so that doesn't help.
  16. I don't think the Australian contingent on here can really help answer the question of value, over here we would not pay more than 8,000 or maybe 10,000 aussie pesos but r32 gtst are readily available here....
  17. Well, this has kind of been covered here before, and I don't know where you are because you didn't fill in the location field of your profile....but answers are: 1. You need to move from 296mm rotor to 324mm rotor for r33/r34 gtr. eg DB5928 for 2 piece slotted. 2. Standard lines fit fine. R33/34 brembos were standard fitment on R32 vspec I and II models too. 3. Keep the standard master cylinder, it will be fine. You may need to trim or push back the backing plates behind the rotors, but otherwise that is a straight fit upgrade to an r32.
  18. Well, 707160-5 is a "-5" turbo. Can't really say if that is or is not what you wanted for an mx-5, what is the capacity? 1.6, 1.8? Those turbos are a common upgrade as a pair on rb26 motors, but most people find them too big/laggy for street use in that setup
  19. Yes, everything connected after the throttle in the current setup and MAP goes into the plenum (you'll probably need fittings). Anything before the throttle like BOV pressure or boost controller still needs to go before the throttle (on custom piping generally)
  20. Yeah it's been a while, but not everything is sold...I need to recheck everything and probably just start a fresh thread
  21. Yes, Yes, no necessarily (longer oil pump drive is desirable not required), not exactly (the lower bolt holes will be off between the sump and gearbox by the height of the awd adapter. depending on how much that troubles you I've seen some people just leave the lower bolts out, my gearbox was redrilled for the new lower bolt locations. The rb30 pdf guide has information on tensioner options, and depending on the block you get you may already have to location for the tensioner machined, or you may need to get that done. There can also be differences on whether the required oil feed and returns are in the block or whether you have to drill and tap them beyond that, motor prep is like any other rebuild (you can decide how far to go), and things like radiator hoses will not fit directly and will need modification. And finally, I think it is a terrible idea to put an rb30 in a R34 GTR these days. Start with something people don't care about like a 33 GTR instead (no one cares about middle children).
  22. sorry, no spare timing cover. Also, pretty sure the 32 one is cast ally FWIW
  23. only if he can't get his hands on a z24.
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