Duncan

well, assuming you trust the guys that did the timing, I think your engine has a mechanical issue like wrong pistons, or decked block and head. So either you make the best of what it does take, or pull it down and check....

That's pretty much how I look at it. Plenty of people prefer the lack of moderation, quick responses and convenience of facebook. SAU is deliberately different, and I think the quality of the content is better as a result.

So, it sounds like it's been running, but wrong, all along. Poor midrange suggests it couldn't take timing back when they first tuned it either. Start with the easy stuff like ensuring the timing is all OK. Check timing with a light obviously, but also check TDC is correct on the balancer (skidfactory did a good video on checking this), then check the cam gears are correct and not adjustable, and then check the timing belt is not a tooth or 2 out. All that you can do without pulling the engine apart.

and replied! Just a quick reminder for people wanting a copy of this manual. I did not have the original, and some very kind soul (also not me!) scanned 000s of pages years ago. I'm just hosting a copy in the best way I know (dropbox). I'm always happy to share, but I need you email address to send the link, so please include that with any request.

Is it a new engine, or are you trying to tune an engine that has been running OK on a standard ECU. If the former there are plenty of things that could be done wrong causing an issue

Since we are being philosophical in here, I just want to say that I think there is value in a place where Skyline focused but not single pointed people can discuss cars, in a moderated environment with some minimum level of respect. There are other places around if you want something else, either less moderated, more generic, or more specific. Thanks for keeping the place alive for so many years Christian, with recent events I've been thinking a lot about the old days, friends we've made and lost through here and how SAU has made it in one form or another through so much change in the world. 17 years now.

You guys were clearly warned, temporary bans handed out. When/if you return, try discussing like adults.

Keep the discussion on topic and drop the personal attacks thanks. Best to keep your resumes for job interviews.

On the bright side, Leaf should be capable of a reasonable jump start....

Wow I thought I was lucky being 30min from Wakefield Park! Sounds like an excellent place to stretch the car's legs. You will certainly want to get a proper tune on it, there is way more potential available for those long straights

Probably not. I think you need someone with wiring experience to spend a day or 2 on this.

So I think the posts above kind of cover it....while mechanically the swap might not be too tricky, the engine loom is different between R33 GTR and Stagea and you are going to need to merge the GTR one into the stagea. Basically, take the stagea , translate it, manual pin out, take the GTR loom and it's pin out, and follow to the plugs (other than the ones on the engine). You need the other side of each stagea plug (or cut them of both looms and replace with something with the right number of pins) and join each onto the right wire in the GTR loom. Possibly a bigger job than the mechanical side unfortunately.

OK, so first up I'm no auto electrician, and you should probably ask one. My understanding is the alternator post should have the same voltage as the battery, they are directly connected by reasonably heavy gauge wire. Further, the alternator uses one of the input wires to check the battery voltage as a reference for charging. If it is seeing way less than the actual battery voltage it would make sense for it to be trying to overcharge. And in any case, whatever it's doing is not making it to the battery since the voltage there doesn't change with the car running. From my understanding....could be alternator, more likely to be an alternator wiring issue. Keep in mind the earth is key to seeing the correct voltage so a bad earth could also be the issue, not just a problem on the positive side.

Page EL-2 (page 752 of the scanned version) of the r32 gtr workshop manual has instructions. I can post the excerpt if you can't find the whole manual (it is probably posted in a billion places on SAU)

OK, so first up I'm no auto electrician, and you should probably ask one. My understanding is the alternator post should have the same voltage as the battery, they are directly connected by reasonably heavy gauge wire. Further, the alternator uses one of the input wires to check the battery voltage as a reference for charging. If it is seeing way less than the actual battery voltage it would make sense for it to be trying to overcharge. And in any case, whatever it's doing is not making it to the battery since the voltage there doesn't change with the car running. From my understanding....could be alternator, more likely to be an alternator wiring issue. Keep in mind the earth is key to seeing the correct voltage so a bad earth could also be the issue, not just a problem on the positive side.

These are beautiful cars, and I wish I had got mine in white with sunroof, not black without. Mine has been perfect too, good luck with sale.

It will be a bit tricky to check, but step 2 after checking voltage at the battery while running needs to be checking voltage at the alternator (post on the rear while running). BTW when troubleshooting never rule out something obvious (wiring harness) because it looks new. Could be installation issue, manufacturing issue or even damaged in some way since installation.

Abusive posts from newly registered member removed. If you have an opinion to share, do so without personal attacks.

All good, it's still active.....link sent

Just want to check because you didn't mention specifically. The most important coolant bleed on the gtr is above the plenum next to the fuel rail. With that open and a funnel in place you should get nothing but coolant out the bleed.

moved to general maintenance. and.....have you checked everything since the drive? all plugs tight, all coil packs securely bolted down, all coil pack loom plugged in OK? And the coil pack earth if you undid it?

here's the thread where Bob reposted that last and the thread that came from

BTW healthy alternator should be charging the battery at something around 13.8v so 12 is not right. Noting the standard gauge is hard to read properly. If you have a multimeter check the voltage across the battery when the car is running.

That is very likely to be the issue if the main battery earth is only connected to the engine. It should go to the chassis first just near the battery (above hicas pump if you still have it), just an m6 thread that you put a bolt in. Let me know if you can't find it, I'll try and get a pic although my setup is a little non standard.

Looks like she's l running a bit hot (noting it may well have been a hot day there...) That movement in the gauges must be a minor electrical issue.....either a bad (common) earth, or gauge power circuit, or even battery terminals. I haven't seen it before but I wouldn't be worried. Does the volt gauge work (and, does it move when you put your foot on the brake?)