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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. Duncan
    How did you go? They can be an absolute arsehole to replace because they don't have a proper hex head and can be very tight so they are very easy to round off. It may be necessary to remove the box to get at it properly. The good news is the wiring is more likely to be the problem than the actual switch, up under the plastic cover the soldering can fail. Resolder it and off you go.
  2. Duncan
    I'm not exactly prompt...but just saying, the H on the dipstick will still be accurate. The tube is pressed into the block just above the sump, so the H level is the same. With different sumps and particularly extended sumps, you may still have a lot of oil below L but that is not really an issue.
  3. Duncan
    I suggest you talk to an import broker before you spend any money fixing things. Personal imports fall under different and more open rules than normal. Try Geoff at Prestige Motorsport or Kristian at Iron Chef Imports
  4. Duncan
    cool choice....enjoy silently trolling porsches at traffic lights
  5. Duncan
    sorry, Sick_R31, not Sik_R31 Bursons may not be able to use those numbers, they are a Nissan part number so they would need a cross check. You could buy from Nissan or Kudos as per Sick_R31's link. Or Amayama.com if you are not in a rush.
  6. Duncan
    Ok...so you are correct, it is a type M. Sik_R31 was the winner, part numbers you need are: 43280-30P05 / 43280-AA000, and 43281-30P05 / 43281-AA000
  7. Duncan
    don't take this the wrong way...but I hope all that work is costing a fortune. what a prick of a job to go to everyday.
  8. Duncan
    take it to a dealer, swap it for a c34 stagea and you should be fine
  9. Duncan
    lol classic. finally a car harder to park at coles than my titan!
  10. Duncan
    well personally I'd go to Unigroup and have been for years. But surely anyone can tune a PFC. Re the auto, you can't tune a PFC for an auto as such. You just get a normal tune, and then the auto decides to change gear the PFC will not cut the timing to make the shift smoother like a factory ECU would. Theoretically that is bad for the auto, I have no idea how well it works in practice. But if the guys who did your valve kit are happy to warrant the work with a PFC then why worry?
  11. Duncan
    definitely not that easy. without knowing what the previous tune spec was for certain there are a heap of settings that could be wrong enough for it not to start. or it could be damaged or dead. you really need to borrow a hand controller, or take it to a tuner who has datalogit or similar. if you don't expect to keep the tune it is reasonably easy to reset to factory with the hand controller which should let it start and run temporarily with those mods.
  12. Duncan
    I suspect what you need was posted above, but if you want to be certain we need your Vin# to look up the part in FAST
  13. Duncan
    I'm not much help since I don't visit all the time, but I hadn't noticed a speed issue lately, and I haven't noticed it being better since the changes...
  14. Duncan
    Assuming your car is 2wd (since you don't say, and neither does your profile) not 4wd? When you say you "fitted it up and the inner diameter for the cv spline is to big" do you mean you can't press the hub face back into the bearing because it is too large, or because it is too small/loose or something else? If you post up your VIN# someone can look up the exact nissan part# in FAST for you.
  15. Duncan
    Or, pull the top off and get it sand blasted clean. If you can see through it, don't paint it and put it back, otherwise do so
  16. Duncan
    30% grade audi tips over onto it's roof and catches fire defender maintains 25km/h
  17. Duncan
    I'd do it one-off for slow and shorter trip, but not regularly. For a start most car trailers are 500-800kg so that means the car you are towing is limited to 900kg. And even then when you tow right up to the load limit you often learn that while the chassis can take the load, the engine won;t deliver the performance to tow it safely (hello creeping up hills on the freeway)
  18. Duncan
    I guess you are trying to stay within factory settings; have you also got the factory suspension? If so, most likely the car is riding lower than it used to which gives more camber, you can measure the distance from the centre of the wheel to the rear guard on both sides to see if it is even. New springs may be a good idea. The other, less likely, possibility is that something has been bent over the years. In that case a new, factory arm would probably correct it if you knew exactly what was bent out of upper control arm, traction arm, lower control arm, hub, toe/hicas link, subframe or subframe mounting point.
  19. Duncan
    series 1/2 R33 GTST? Little more detail required....
  20. Duncan
    The factory lines are wound right around both sides of the engine and would be a pain to remove and replace in 1 piece without the engine lifted...but depending on the exact leak a competent hydraulic service should be able to repair/replace the damaged section with something else suitable without anywhere near as much work.
  21. Duncan
    I go through Just Jap too, having separate spares rather than whole kits has been useful to me. I've ordered pads, rings and even new caliper pairs through them
  22. Duncan
    I don't know them specifically, but they look equivalent based on my detailed research (ie look at a pic on their website)
  23. Duncan
    I like them because they are cheap and good enough for the job. compare a kit that contains new calipers, pads, rotors, lines to the cost of buying a second hand caliper, rebuilding it, new pads, new rotors, new lines and you come out way ahead. And the caliper/disc combo is a lot lighter than brembos + factory style disc. And the caliper is slimmer than brembo so it fits under wheels better I've bought a couple of those kits for different cars, generally 330mm because you don't need too large wheels.
  24. Duncan
    Definitely the feed. You want clean fuel in your injectors, not returning to your fuel tank
  25. Duncan
    I reckon those d2/attkd/g4/ksport/whatever brakes are the best option for pretty much any upgrade since they come with everything including brake lines. I did manage to wear through 2 sets of rings and replaced 1 set of calipers due to sticky pistons after about 10 years running them on multiple cars, including at targa tas
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