Duncan

BTW healthy alternator should be charging the battery at something around 13.8v so 12 is not right. Noting the standard gauge is hard to read properly. If you have a multimeter check the voltage across the battery when the car is running.

That is very likely to be the issue if the main battery earth is only connected to the engine. It should go to the chassis first just near the battery (above hicas pump if you still have it), just an m6 thread that you put a bolt in. Let me know if you can't find it, I'll try and get a pic although my setup is a little non standard.

Looks like she's l running a bit hot (noting it may well have been a hot day there...) That movement in the gauges must be a minor electrical issue.....either a bad (common) earth, or gauge power circuit, or even battery terminals. I haven't seen it before but I wouldn't be worried. Does the volt gauge work (and, does it move when you put your foot on the brake?)

yeah good question Mark....so what is happening with this Matt?

Hi Andrew, what is the target use for the car? Clean road car and spirited driving? Or something more specialist. If the former, and noting you are going to the effort of rotisserie, replace every ball joint, rod end and bush with factory or aftermarket items. New, factory style is fine for that sort of use but if you want improvements then caster rods, front upper control arms and hicas lock out are the main things. If you are going MCA for shocks they will recommend springs to match (generally quite heavy) and so you would either use stock or light upgrade sway bars. If it's for drag, drift, circuit race or rally they are all more specialist discussions.

well, at least they are all the right car!

(congrats BTW!) I don't know a 32 gtst for sale, probably even those are starting to go up instead of down in price these days unless they have been thrashed in between. A wanted to buy thread may still get different sellers to other sites, but the state and social parts of the forum are pretty quiet these days

Still trying to work out if you are planning to change the married and kids status, or the car projects...

Ahh that will make it a bit trickier. Not sure about the pathfinder option, here we generally use rb30 skyline or patrol as the cheap but compatible replacement. The good news is it only has to fit physically so if you take yours off you should be able to compare. Did you flush it out thoroughly, rebleed everything properly and do a leak test? Chasing and changing parts is doing the hard things first.

Hey Brendan.....hope life's been treating you well. Got any projects on the go these days? Not a lot of any-siders around here any more! We moved so far south west we fell out of Sydney altogether (because sheds)

Agreed....it should be on the manifold (post throttle), not plenum (pre throttle)! Been too long since I've run with one attached. Either way it is not clear to me how it could read higher than atmo unless the problem was electrical not mechanical

Well firstly, congrats on picking up the new car! 91 is an unusual year, was it Australian delivered? As for the overheating, unfortunately there are a lot of potential reasons and not enough info to really guess. If it overheats when stationary (unusual on these) it suggests some problem with the viscous coupling on the fan, these wear out but generally seize to be on all the time If it overheats based on time or load when driving there are a lot of things to check and you may want a mechanic to do them -air lock somewhere from coolant not being bled properly. rebleed the system including having the heater on full and opening the bleed on the intake manifold near the injectors, and using some sort of bleeding funnel. If the car had been serviced by someone who wasn't careful this is the most likely issue. -thermostat not opening, this will make it overheat pretty quickly but is an easy fix -leak in the system. run a pressure test and make sure there is no issue. another symptom here will be coolant loss. Leak could be in the radiator, hoses, heater core, radiator cap not holding pressure. Potentially and expensively but unlikely, it could also be a head gasket or block crack. The water pump itself can't fail to pump as it is belt driven from the fan/water pump/alternator belt. That should be obvious if missing....when water pumps fail they leak from the seals

That is a bit strange, because that just comes from the MAP sensor on the firewall near the brake master cylinder. Does it work OK when you start to hit boost (ie, does it match the greddy gauge when you are driving)? I'd start with swapping the MAP sensor for another one to see if it has failed somehow, otherwise there may be some issue in the wiring. The air source is unlikely to be the issue since it is reading high, but you can check the air line is connected to the back of the plenum and has no cracks or splits

Then personally I'd take the chance and run it.

Depends on how big a problem it is for you if the engine fails. If it fails, you have written confirmation from the engine builder that this wouldn't cause an issue, ie their problem to fix. Depending on their attitude they might do the right thing no problems and fix it, or you might have to fight which can be expensive. Alternatively, if you are pushing it hard and can't accept anything less than perfect, you need to bore it out another .5mm. But that would be at your cost as you provided the block which had pitting that was uncovered during machining, and you will need new pistons and rings as well. Expensive but you get piece of mind. I'd have to say, I wouldn't be happy that the shop didn't tell me about the problem (either because they didn't see it or because they didn't want to pass on bad news) before it left so I could decide what to do.

Exactly what I would do too, assuming its's also not too far (or if it is, regular stop and looks). But I'm no engineer or NZ road law expert

impossible to tell without pics of the ute as well (OK, I just like old dattos :))

+1, silicone or exhaust cement. just a dab though.

It's definitely a fluid line of some sort. If the brakes work and you didn't chance the clutch line to bypass the damper or something, then it is a coolant line. Did you change any of those or modify the system at all (you said it didn't leak so it's not "missing", it would be immediately pissing out everywhere). There are coolant lines into and out of the turbos, they run around the rear of the engine and under the inlet manifold. It's possible it is an air/boost line for the turbo boost/wastegate control but I didn't think any of them had flare fittings, I think they are all push on.

what happens if you put your foot on the brakes? or clutch?

BTW, if it wasn't done with the timing belt, also change the stud and bolt for the timing belt idler and tensioner while it's all apart. $10 of parts for piece of mind.

So....I guess that makes the point that people should always do the water pump when they do the timing belt. Costs 300 more, but saves having to do the job twice. (sorry I know that is no help to you now, but maybe one day someone will search, find this thread, and go, hey, why don't I take that advice!)

great to see you getting plenty of racing laps in, it's great fun, isn't it with the vibration, a common cause is pick up on the tyre. If you can, rotate them or change them and see if the problem moves or goes away. It's amazing how bad a small lump of rubber can feel... Maybe Neil should post up about the wheel (not) falling off....

Also, it's not a simple DIY to change, depending on tools and experience you probably want a workshop to do it as removing the old bush can be tricky

You just (carefully!) lever the end off the ball, it has a sort of spring inside.