Duncan

no, brake cleaner is fine. degreaser on the other hand isn't because it would leave a residue on the AFM. and your car isn't killing the AFM, the AFM is killing the car. so if you do have another AFM just swap it across

BTW the AA guy did exactly the right thing. Dirty intake or AFM was a fair assumption on the side of the road, and brake cleaner is the best thing to clean a dirty AFM with. Of course cleaning a failed sensor won't fix it, but their job is to fix what they can quickly without tools and diagnostics so it was a fair decision. It would seem most likely to be either AFM or fuel pump and neither is expensive to swap. So change over whichever you think is more likely and see if it sorts it If you want to spend more money on it you can have the fuel pump tested by a decent mechanic, keeping in mind they tend to fail gradually which means a failing pump will still seem to pump by ear or on a bench but may not make enough pressure when required.

V70A used to be our control tyre, I used to run the mediums and found them the best of the mid priced tyres. of course then the hankooks came along at mid price and blew away even the most expensive ones which turned the market upside down for a while. I haven't priced them lately but per Richard's post, if they have got expensive that may make v70a a good choice again. One surprising thing about the v70a, they like really high pressures. Like 40-45 hot high.

Well if you take the current + to the fuel pump as your trigger to your new relay everything will still work...but you will still be running through the old fuel pump relay unnecessarily. It's not a big deal but if it fails you will lose fuel even though it's not serving any useful purpose.

Genelle by far the easiest and cheapest is to sell your car and buy an auto one. Any conversion will cost way more than the car was worth in the first place.

That diagram is not for a skyline, right? In our system the ECU signal is negative not positive. It goes to a relay which goes to a variable resistor which changes the pump speed when at idle, and then to the pump. If you are trying to simplify you need to find the original fuel pump relay (I think it is under the carpet in the boot where the boot lock is), find which wire into that has earth for about 5 seconds after you turn the ignition on but then it stops. Use that wire to 85 on your diagram as the - relay source. Connect 86 to the same wire that comes from your battery (it is the + relay source). 87 connects to fuel pump + as shown. fuel pump - should go straight to a good earth as shown on the diagram Sorry I don't know wire colours, they change between models anyway, but what I wrote works for all R chassis. Wired up this way you get full voltage all the time, and the fuel pump is still controlled on and off by the ECU which is important for safety. The diagram you had assumed a + source from the ECU.

As above, 99% the problem is with the sender not the dash

frankly, in the current and likely future market a good condition car heavy with Nismo parts is probably a better investment than bitcoin.... also, if you are in a country with no experience or parts for these motors there is a real argument for japanese crate motors. Australia is a very different situation

sorry man, no good news. it is expensive. cheapest way out is an engine swap, possible out of a stagea.

Sorry I'm not familiar with QLD rules, but I understood in NSW a full (6 point) cage is a no go, plate or not. Only half cage (4 point) can pass due to driver head issues. You might need to check with a local engineer, is there a name on the papers?

if you are feeling optimistic you could take all the drive belts off (water pump/fan/alternator, power steer, aircon) and start it briefly and see if the noise is still there, but the video is pretty distinctive....

sorry mate but you've spun a bearing, probably big end. If you give it a little rev does it get worse (best way to confirm if it is big end vs main, but either way the bottom end needs fixing) what does the oil pressure gauge and/or light say when it's running? Do you still have any oil pressure? What were you doing last time it didn't make the noise? also, if you intend to rebuild it rather than replace it, every single revolution does more damage and increases cost to rebuild...

I doubt datascan can help but anyone with consult with the security option should be able to code keys like Bob said. Any nissan dealer or some specialist shops like Justjap.

In our stagea we just used the M6 bolt that holds the base of the rear seat down through the extinguisher's bracket. It holds fine and is easily within reach of the driver.

I haven't got them on the same car or tested back to back. But I am very happy with them. I would probably give them a go for a hard driven street car if they had a direct fit replacement like the link you had. ATTKD are a Just Jap only brand AFAIK. But the Ksport, G4, D2 etc etc all seem to be the same or similar.

I'm using those but as part of an upgrade kit. I also have 2 piece DBAs on the race car and 2 piece Ksport on the Stagea Generally 2 piece rotors: lighter due to alloy hat instead of all cast iron dissipate heat better cheaper to replace just the ring rather than whole thing

Personally I wouldn't buy a helmet I couldn't try on. Proper fit matters for comfort and safety. I stuck with a basic bike helmet for years until the category required us to have HANS. I didn't want to move to one due to cost and an (incorrect) perception that it would be uncomfortable and restrictive. Of course you also need a 4+ point harness, and make sure that the width of your HANS shoulders are the same width as your belts, they often are not.

It is worth saying that every car should have had child seat anchors installed when it was complied before first registration. Sadly a lot of workshops seem to skip that step

dotras I'm not sure but DOTARS are the federal govt department that issue import approvals for every car that enters the country. They will have a record of how your car entered and with what sort of approval that should help https://infrastructure.gov.au/vehicles/imports/

where are you putting the oil in? does it have an extended or factory sump? if you run the car after topping up the oil and then open the radiator cap do you have a milkshake? is there a huge pool of oil under your car?

Well firstly, I'm not familiar with VQ series so I might mislead you... You didn't say what actually happens when you try and start it? Does it crank but not fire? Does it crank quickly? When you say you know it's not fuel is that for sure? I would run the fuel hose return to a bucket/jerry can/whatever temporarily and crank it to see plenty of fuel coming out. If so I'd take the CAS off, turn the ignition on and listen for injector clicking as I turned the CAS. Also, do you have some sort of fuel pressure gauge to be sure the base pressure is right? With the spark I'd take a coil pack off, put a spark plug on it and crank to look for physical spark at the plug Do you know the timing is right? That would also stop it starting. And yes, I would expect an auto will not start unless you have bridged the neutral and/or park signal at the auto loom. If you don't want to connect the auto loom wires to the gearbox neutral switch at least bridge the park wires. No resistor required it will just be either a simple connected (or not) circuit that you can bridge. But I guess it will not even crank unless the park or neutral signal is there (maybe that's why you said you needed to bridge the starter solenoid) Finally, the ECU probably needs a start signal as well as the starter motor. So if your bypass does not apply 12v to the start signal at the key the ECU may have decided the engine has stalled and to turn the fuel and spark off.

There will be something, somewhere. Maybe in the driver or passenger's door jab if not under the bonnet. Who did you buy it from? If nothing else, you can contact DOTARS and get a copy of the import approval based on your japanese VIN#. It will be something like ER34-xxxxxx.

unlike regular globes, LEDs generally have a polarity. So remove the one that isn't working, turn 180o and replace, it will probably do the trick

I assumed he meant removing it from the hub, and no I don't know any way to do it on the car either. take it to a workshop and let them swear at it

BTW it really doesn't matter what the plug is for. If it troubles you clean it with some brake cleaner.