Duncan

Assuming your car is 2wd (since you don't say, and neither does your profile) not 4wd? When you say you "fitted it up and the inner diameter for the cv spline is to big" do you mean you can't press the hub face back into the bearing because it is too large, or because it is too small/loose or something else? If you post up your VIN# someone can look up the exact nissan part# in FAST for you.

Or, pull the top off and get it sand blasted clean. If you can see through it, don't paint it and put it back, otherwise do so

30% grade audi tips over onto it's roof and catches fire defender maintains 25km/h

I'd do it one-off for slow and shorter trip, but not regularly. For a start most car trailers are 500-800kg so that means the car you are towing is limited to 900kg. And even then when you tow right up to the load limit you often learn that while the chassis can take the load, the engine won;t deliver the performance to tow it safely (hello creeping up hills on the freeway)

I guess you are trying to stay within factory settings; have you also got the factory suspension? If so, most likely the car is riding lower than it used to which gives more camber, you can measure the distance from the centre of the wheel to the rear guard on both sides to see if it is even. New springs may be a good idea. The other, less likely, possibility is that something has been bent over the years. In that case a new, factory arm would probably correct it if you knew exactly what was bent out of upper control arm, traction arm, lower control arm, hub, toe/hicas link, subframe or subframe mounting point.

series 1/2 R33 GTST? Little more detail required....

The factory lines are wound right around both sides of the engine and would be a pain to remove and replace in 1 piece without the engine lifted...but depending on the exact leak a competent hydraulic service should be able to repair/replace the damaged section with something else suitable without anywhere near as much work.

I go through Just Jap too, having separate spares rather than whole kits has been useful to me. I've ordered pads, rings and even new caliper pairs through them

I don't know them specifically, but they look equivalent based on my detailed research (ie look at a pic on their website)

I like them because they are cheap and good enough for the job. compare a kit that contains new calipers, pads, rotors, lines to the cost of buying a second hand caliper, rebuilding it, new pads, new rotors, new lines and you come out way ahead. And the caliper/disc combo is a lot lighter than brembos + factory style disc. And the caliper is slimmer than brembo so it fits under wheels better I've bought a couple of those kits for different cars, generally 330mm because you don't need too large wheels.

Definitely the feed. You want clean fuel in your injectors, not returning to your fuel tank

I reckon those d2/attkd/g4/ksport/whatever brakes are the best option for pretty much any upgrade since they come with everything including brake lines. I did manage to wear through 2 sets of rings and replaced 1 set of calipers due to sticky pistons after about 10 years running them on multiple cars, including at targa tas

I run brembos (porsche) with an adapter on the race car and have not had any trouble. There is no reason an adapter would cause trouble unless it is not engineered correctly; strength of the bracket and resulting location of the caliper on the disk are critical I don't have direct experience with the alpha omega ones although I'm a little surprised how close the threaded holes are to the outside of the adapter in those pics. It's hard to be sure without measuring but I'd be looking for at least the same diameter as the hole to be left around it (ie 14mm hole, 14mm around it to support it). Generally their stuff is good, and I haven't heard from anyone having a problem with them

Yes

I've always used some sealant on half moons but none on the covers and have not had leaks. I do use new seals though.

yeah there are 2 bleed points but they are both downstream of the pump obviously. just crack the one above the rear driveshaft first and then do the one at the rear of the transfer case once the first is done. I don't think I've heard of anyone having trouble with an attessa bleed unless they either had a problem with the system, or they didn't notice the bleeder above the rear driveshaft

well there you go. rear is straight swap then (if there is a pair of ABS sensors on the diff end of the half shafts), but and so is the front...there is just a lot of work to change the front diff/sump....

Yes, gtr sump (and diff) will bolt straight on a gts4 (noting it is effectively an engine out job). At the rear the drive shafts will be different so it would be easiest just to change the diff centre.

no need mate, as long as the pump is running it will bleed the system. It's not like brake or clutch where the pressure comes from a pedal being pressed. If you want to run it long enough to flush all the fluid through just keep an eye on the reservoir and refill it as you go

She loves it. (apparently)

well the good news is my upper arm bushes have been lasting twice as long (you know 3-4 weekends instead of 1-2) since I move the LCA mouting points outwards 20mm. Its definitely a 30 year old geometry issue.

well....obviously we were interested to know. even on the hottest days racing the battery temp never moved off average discharging it, we only ever saw the temp move when we fast charged the car. Pic below was from Bathurst on a 30+ degree day. So on data in front of us, no way to say it caused any trouble. Certainly the car performs exactly as it always has which is nice. Just took this battery report from our car, interesting to compare to the 2 posted earlier. Our car is a year older older and has more klms and the battery is 4 and 10% worse respectively....so my guess is racing it has made stuff all difference.

hmmmm....I saw a pair of gtech upper arms snapped at the welds just last week. the car looked hard to drive after that. I suspect there is no good option for 32 upper arms, maybe the nismo brackets are the best idea. I did run nolathene bushes back in the day, pretty sure they went broke and got bought our like Andy said. They worked fine but degraded quickly over time, they only lasted 1-2 seasons before needing re-doing which was a PITA to do again.

Sorry mate didn't realise you were in NZ. All the aussie ones are 2011 models but you guys get proper options, and far cheaper than here. Good on the dealer to post up the Leaf Spy data, that really helps buyers and saves you the time stuffing around to do it. I might have misunderstood the second one but it is reporting 5,000 quick charges and only 376 regular charges which is very strange, maybe it is an ex fleet or taxi of some sort? Nissan recommend avoiding quick charging as it degrades the battery; it has lower kays, same age, but worse battery.... The first car is even stranger as it reports 0 miles, 0 quick charge and 6 regular charges; my guess it is has a new onboard charger which is where that data is stored. These can either fail with time (in particular a diode dies killing the whole thing), or maybe someone has been stuffing with it and damaged something... Yes, the state of health (SOH) is the figure that matters, and yes the first one is reporting 82 vs 75. Basically that is % of new battery capacity left. Ours is around 70 after 5 years but obviously they keep declining. One thing I forgot to mention is the cabin heater uses an electric element to warm coolant, and these do fail. Make sure you crank the heat on test drive to confirm that works. About $1000 to repair if not. Also, find out what they come with for charging and how fast it will charge. In Oz they came with a 10A cable which takes about 8 hours for a full battery, and it needed a 15A Oz power point (or mods to the cable). Proper Level2 chargers cost 1-3k and will do it in 4 hours. Either way is OK for overnight charging but you just need to plan ahead for the slower one.....

definitely not universal. actually it's been one of those annoying things where everyone went with their own standards. Tesla are tesla only, and there was one more common in europe and another more common in japan. hacked adapters are available for most things and people who do long / tricky trips just tend to carry a few of them. Oz Leafs come with 2 ports, standard and quick charge but there are other types out there. I honestly haven't kept track of them all. We do charge out and about at times, especially overnight when a hillclimb goes over 2 days. 99% of the rest of the time we charge at home and plan/monitor so that we don't need to charge while out. If we stuff up for some reason there is a slow charger in the boot that can work with a standard power point But realistically you get a lot of control over the range because it is directly related to speed. ie, if you think you are 20% short on range just drive 20% slower, it makes a big difference. You just kind of get used to keeping an eye on range when you start a trip. Maybe one day there will be chargers everywhere...but even the quickest ones are at least 30min to charge and who wants to stop that long multiple times on a long trip.