Duncan

no it surely will not mess anything up. spin away. It's probably got locking nuts at either end of the middle part that you need to loosen off first, fg you aren't sure post up a pic

I finally used mine on the weekend to take the race tyres off the leaf and return it to road life. About 2 hours from wrapped in plastic to wheel change complete. There's a bit of stuffing around bleeding the hydraulics the first time but very straightforward to use. I've got the 12v version so it is theoretically portable, but each frame is very heavy to lift. Probably slower than a jack and stands on a car where you have it down pat, but it does lift stuff off the ground which is the whole point. And lifting by the sills keeps the underside of the car nicely accessible. But it doesn't seem like good value for occasional/weekend use to me. Also, if you buy one check the measurements of the jack against each car you want to lift. The Leaf is just hatchback sized but the biggest quickjack only made it by about 200mm

The tensioner stud is 13073-V5001 And for what it's worth, the idler bolt is 08041-07010 or 08041-0701A

Personally I wouldn't hesitate to reuse the bolt and washer, I've reused them many times. Seems like a good idea to replace the balancer as they have bonded rubber and would be feeling their age by now. When you do the timing belt you should definitely change the stud for the timing belt idler bearing, they have been known to break, as well as the idler and tensioner bearing of course. And the cam and crank oil seals. And the water pump.

Yeah that's the number. Australia adds a whole bunch of stuff to the front but BNR32-303809 is your japanese VIN. It comes up with 12200-05U02 for the crank so it is different to my earlier car, but not necessarily because it's a Vspec. As I said earlier 12200-05U03 superseeds both of them so whatever the difference is they are all compatible. In any case...the part numbers I posted above for the balancer, bolt and washer should be fine. What happened that you need them?

I'm pretty sure Vspec had the same crank as base GTRs. They all changed sometime around 94 to long drive for the oil pump but that was not Vspec only, and they are interchangable. Does your 93 have a long oil pump drive? I can double check if the crank is different if you want, either post or pm me your VIN number. The crank part number for my 91 non vspec 32 gtr is 12200-05U01. FAST shows 12200-05U02 and 12200-05U03 are alternate part numbers (ie interchangeable) but there is no description of the the change. In any case, the long oil pump drive does not change any of the parts around. It just engages more of the oil pump rotor.

I'm pretty sure she's tall enough to knee you in the balls next time she sees you mate

well accord to nismo the original balancer (12303-05U01) is no longer available, but they are making a replacement 12303-RHR20 for a very reasonable 42000 yen. http://www.nismo.co.jp/heritage_parts/ bolt is 12309-05u00 and big washer under it is 12308-05U00

Thanks Dave, I was actually looking into this and it seems some people have had bad results when extending as the original wires are stainless so can't really be soldered. http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-performance-modifications/397281-jba-long-tube-install-o2-sensor-placement-extension-harness.html Seems to be running OK so far, and the tune is done via email based on logs, but effectively only from the rear cylinders like you say. My guess is they have it down pat after doing billions of them. There was one other mod I did a while back, but hadn't got around to showing....set your faces to stun... yes, you saw that right. Side steps that are low enough to use, but keep getting smashed up every time you go over rough ground. I've got lots of other jobs lined up and should get time over the xmas break because there is a long gap between my contracts, and most of the urgent #rurallife jobs are under control at last.

I've very happy with the ATTKD 330s...I've got a set on the Cima as well now. The ones on the stagea (which also has 260kw) have been there since 2007. I've replaced pads on a couple of them including race car (winmax from racebrakes) and stagea (replacement original ones from just jap), and I replaced the discs/rings on the stagea with replacements from justjap a year or 3 back as well. If they made those for the Titan I'd put these brakes on them too, they are excellent value upgrades.

I can't see it happening....330s barely fit under 17s. It 's an issue with how far the caliper sticks out from the rotor

32-34 hot.....most people prefer the lower end of the range. cold is too hard to guess, depends on track, car and driver. If you have no idea where to start set them to 28, do 3 hard laps, come into the pits hot and let them down to 32

If there is any way to use I hoist I'd go that way in an instant. Quicklift is a lot of money for a quicker version of jack+stands. You'd need to be lifting a lot of cars to make it worthwhile I think 2 post hoists start at about 1500 for a second handy that would be fine for weekend use.

Sort of; in that I have one in boxes on the shed floor. When we moved out of the old place I've had to leave the hoist behind because 1/ I can't get 3 phase power here, and 2/ the shed roof is about 0.5m too short for the hoist I have. So as this is kind of temporary (for a year or 3....), I grabbed one of these. Not unpacked or used yet, I haven't had a job that needed it so far but will have to change the sludge/oil in the bush basher soon enough and replace the water in the brake lines with brake fluid, both of which will give me a reason to give it a go. Without having used it yet, thoughts from me are that it is very expensive (a full hoist is the same price or cheaper) and obviously won't let you stand under it but this is easy for clearance, has no install cost or requirements, is portable, and has no overhead clearance issues.

I think I understand better now. You had a t04e on a motor with a standard ECU, then the compression test showed it was broken, and now you are trying to work out if you should put that turbo back on the new motor with the standard ECU? The simple answer is anything change to a turbo will need a tunable computer. Hell, just changing the boost on a standard turbo will need something. You need to address the ECU if you are determined to keep that turbo.

mate either they did the test wrong, or your motor is f**ked. does it run OK normally?

The oring will be for the oil filler cap...and thanks for the tip because those washers individually are as dear as poison. Having said that I've used slices of fuel hose instead of the washer successfully too

well, there is kind of a religious war out there about whether springs on their own are sufficient, or whether sway bars and springs are better. In production cars we have to run stock sway bars so we run heavier springs (ie the MCA and common Japanese approach) but when I'm not doing prod cars I run heavier bars and lighter springs and I think it handles better, particularly over bumps. The MCA time attack car is a good advertisement, but not really relevant for the average full chassis race car. Only time attack cars run on the smoothest track, 1 lap at a time on super soft tyres and with massive downforce. The rest of us live in a world with compromised track surfaces or roads with plenty of bumps, little to no downforce and tyres that are expected to last hours of racing and not degrade.

f**k it must be frustrating on the track with standard sway bars

Just lift the wheel off the ground, put some nice solid stands under it and then move the wheel back and forward. It may require a reasonable (but not crazy) amount of force. Rose joints wear out quickly on road cars, and instead of moving freely either jam or get loose and rattly. They are really designed for race use and regular replacement. If it is the castor rods you'd be better replacing them with standard arms and adjustable bushes, or adjustable arms with bushes. Could still be any (every) other joint but they are a good place to start

how old are you castor arms, and are they rose jointed or poly bush? worn rose joints would be a likely source of clicking when changing direction. Is everything else stock?

+1. Wear there allows uncontrolled toe changes at the rear which can be really interesting

lol when did you start putting *2* bolts on the starter motor??

Hi Leroy can you break that down a little: is ep3 a civic? when you say "tracking at a garage" is that a wheel alignment? Was there any information provided with it like before and after alignment settings? They almost certainly will not have changed ride height unless it was an expensive alignment, you would have noticed. Assuming all that is true, it is mostly likely they reduced toe out at the front (and possibly rear) to setting which are nicer for tyre wear. Without having the settings its just a guess though

Very, very rich AFRs are normal when a car is misfiring because the whole cylinder of fuel gets dumped out the exhaust instead of burning. Given you've recently had work done, the most likely is that you've got an air leak somewhere. stick your head under the bonnet while running and listen around all of the vacuum lines for air hissing. Also check all of the intake / intercooler piping is not leaking