Duncan

sounds like it might be seized pretty bad then....the starter makes plenty of torque. A shorter breaker bar is ok for the starter trick because you don't need to put leverage on it. alternatively, try a "power bar". no, not a type of protein bar. a thin you hit with a hammer to make balancer bolts come undone. mine is an SP

since everyone is bumping their build threads today......that reminds me I finished off all the engine bay, underside, inner guard etc wiring on the weekend. Even worked out why the Nav side power window wasn't working (yes, the motor wasn't plugged in....). It's all back to about 3 pages ago where it cranks perfect but does not start, just more colourful and straighter.

classic. how is that chassis not written off...And you are right, other than the tags I can't see what is left was worth 10k let alone 17 was it crashed here....and either way I can't imagine the driver is well

Thanks Troy. Did I see right that you took yours to Bathurst the other week? Must have been fun, and plenty of space to let it stretch it's legs there.... Anyway, here's some exterior pics....keeping in mind it's had 15 years of racing and rallying so like most race cars it is only expected to look good from a distance..... I think it is bright enough, should be easy to spot in a carpark, and come up well in pics/tv Didn't get a lot done this weekend as I was out fighting blackberries again. Just sorted the engine bay wiring but needed to get it up on stands to deal with the wiring in the inner guard and under the rear. The quick jacks are a good thing but not really that quick (a bit fiddly to get right) and mega heavy to move

Lots of reasons an engine that has just been rebuilt might have a problem, I suggest taking it back to the shop and letting them decide what to do next. All 3 things you said are bad signs.

Funny you should ask, mine fell apart yesterday too. You are missing the nylon nut that sits inside the petrol flap, hopefully it is still there or on the ground under the car somewhere. You then push the release in through the rear panel and secure with the nut (not too tight it's only nylon)

So, got a bit more done today. Since I've gone haltech I need to mount a heap of little boxes. So back in the day the fabricator made up an MDF dummy but I needed to do it in carbon fibre (becaues race car) So, taped up the cf sheet and copied across the points A little hacksawing and drilling, and it looks like this. Again I've used rubber mounts to insulate the electronics a little from race car bumps Mounted up in place in the passenger footwell, tucked up behind the roll cage, all wiring in. That's pretty much it for now I also mounted up all the rest of the interior wiring; rallysafe, GPS for dash, camera, intercom all in. Unfortunately the next step is to redo the dash, since the last one had an uncovered trailer/truck related issue which made it flatter than it needs to be. I also have to put a big more wiring back in underneath (main fuel pump, fuel pressure and e85 sensors, o2 sensor) and a bit in the engine bay too...then it should be right to put the battery back in and see what I've done wrong in the wiring...

So, Kel is off rallying again and I thought if I don't do some work on the car it may not just finish itself.... The car is back from paint and there is no longer any evidence of that small issue on the nav side where the road was a little narrow that the driver thought. They've painted the inside too so it's time to put the wiring back in. Did some more labelling of the wire because I hadn't finished them all Ran the wiring to the back of the car And into the boot. That would have all been done back there but the shop didn't attach the rear bar properly so its off again for now Also go the main/dash wiring mostly sorted. The smartwire is mounted on rubber mounts to help keep it alive longer. Mounted it up All the wiring back in and connected up on the middle and driver's side. Looks like a damn mess but its actually pretty sorted, most of the hanging stuff is for dash and switches Still have work to do on ECU mounting and wiring on that side. Maybe another 6 months. Or tomorrow.

I agree it's unlikely to be the ECU that is the issue, although not impossible....what would be pretty much impossible is finding another one of those bloody ECUs to swap in. As you've probably seen elsewhere my stagea is the same month and had troubles when I swapped to an aftermarket ECU because pin outs were different to the ones before and after. I'm assuming the car is reasonably stock other than the manual conversion. Having an auto ECU in a manual converted car will not cause an issue on it's own, the main difference is the atuo ECU has logic to cut timing when the auto is shifting for smoother shifts. Since you have a manual now the ECU never gets that signal so that function is not used. The other thing about the auto ECU is that it might be less tolerant to mods, and that could be part of your issue depending on mods. In earlier series like r32 and r33 the ECU was more accepting of extra boost/airflow, but in the later series (and I found this ECU in particular) was really unhappy even with boost at 10psi instead of 7 even on the standard turbo. Basically the map had a really narrow band where it runs at sensible air fuel ratios, and it goes mega rich and retards the timing heaps outside that with the intent of protecting the engine from whatever went wrong to take it off that narrow path. Very rich running in particular can cause misfires alone, and can quickly foul spark plugs which will increase the issue. So....if you are unmodified, check the usual skyline/stagea stuff like Bobby has posted above. * Most likely reason for running rough and idle and stalling is an air leak in the intake after the air flow meter and before the inlet valves, or a dead or dying AFM. A good mechanic can do a smoke test to check and it would be a good idea to swap for another AFM and see if that helps * Maybe run it on a dyno somewhere with monitoring of fuel pressure because by this age could be fuel filter, injectors clogged or leaking, fuel pump dying/losing flow at high pressure * Coil packs / spark plugs / spark plug gap. Start by replacing with new plugs gapped to 0.8mm instead of standard. If that helps there is a problem in the ignition system so consider new coils or check the coil pack wiring and earth * Have a compression test done, there could be a mechanical problem in the engine. If the car is modified or running higher boost you need to get it on a dyno and find out if it is a rich running problem, and if so plan for an aftermarket ECU and some added expense getting wiring modified somewhat. Sorry I don't have a wiring diagram or details of what was changed in my car, it was more than 10 years ago now. I know there were coil and air con issues but can't remember details.

yep its just a nitto fitting. Pretty sure it came with one in the kit.

I've got an SP tools one I use on the 32 GTR, 33 GTST is probably the same I guess as they all use the same master cylinder. SP70821 BTW thread over here for another option....note that it took me months to get the correct part from SP....

Enough! Off topic posts removed, this is a build thread not a whitegoods discussion. Further off topic posts will lead to warnings or holidays.

Posts removed. No chatting in FS section.

or possibly cut out the old ones if you are careful. The poly style are easier to put back in that standard ones

Yes, but you will also need to press out the rear bushes.....if you have one of those threaded bush presses or can make up something similar

Well...the wire and the bolt are almost certainly just an earth from the chassis to subframe...follow the wire to confirm. The ABS sensors have a bit of sealant on them. Twist to break the seal and they will slide out (assuming you also removed the bolt first...) Otherwise, if the rear mount bolts are undone (possibly hidden behind hicas), the tailshaft and driveshafts are off and the diff front mount is undone that is it. Might just be well stuck to the rear subframe bushes so try a bit of pry bar

you could....but I cant see a dangerous amount of bare metal there. If you look at other places like the spot welds where the chassis rails meet the floor you can see how a touch of surface rust can start over 30 years. It's not a dangerous rust risk like some places where water can pool and really eat into the metal. If you are worried underfloor sealer (tarlike stuff) is available in cans, it resists stone chips better

That is one of the straightest chassis rails I've ever seen on a 32.......next time put the stands where that seam is (forward of where you used), or spread the load a bit with a piece of wood along the rail

This doesn't often happen....but GTSBoy is not right. There is a long metal bracket that goes the length of the glovebox, it's confusingly shown just to the left of the glovebox in the diagram you posted. Let me know if you can't find one, I've got a spare since the "truck ran over my dashboard" incident

disc looks like it will clear OK. probably want to leave the caliper off though

2 randoms who won 2wd

Well, Liam and Larry have added the inaugural Targa Great Barrier Reef trophy to their pool room this weekend. While Quinn/Catford were super unlucky, breaking down on transport back after the last stage, Liam and Larry had been super all weekend on a brand new course and were running comfortably second when the porsche stopped, moving them to first in the largest class. These guys have been quietly racing their 33 GTR for years now, battling some bad luck at times but being overwhelmingly quick and careful, resulting in some great finishes. Well done guys Here's the Cairns post front page from yesterday (and no, that's not them in the race suits...)

Well if they are good enough for Marty and Blair....

I haven't used the floor style one, but on the hoist style one which is effectively the same but taller...yes you can still rotate the box to clear that hump. Just need to undo the safety chain or leave it loose. The 4 fingers that stick up are also adjustable or removable if they get in the way. That style of jack is a lot more stable that the regular small pad floor jack.

Whereabouts are you?