Duncan

Hi realor, as you have, please report the post and we will tidy it up. we don't allow posters to edit after the first 30min as there was some trouble with scammer trading in the past.

Do you mean, an aftermarket turbo from a twin rb26 setup? All standard turbos had ceramic wheels, only the N1 spec ones were steel. BTW, well done getting a mini to go that quick!

Yeah they better be bloody perfect since that was the thing that started this whole refresh. Re tyres, there are some restrictions. When I'm running 18x10s I'm not on control tyres but there are still only a couple of brands that are worth running on unless you want to come last. According to websites (haven't had a chance to call yet, other sizes may be available....): Hankook: 285/30R18, 631mm or 295/30R18, 637mm Yokohama: 295/30R18 633mm, 295/35R18, 664mm. Dunlop: 285/30R18, 635mm Interestingly when I measured the diameter of the 295/35R18 yokos, I got 655mm against a listed size of 664mm. Also measured a set of dunlop DZ03G that I have in 235/45R17 which are meant to be 644mm but measure up as 630mm...so as usual the manufacturer listed specs and the ruler don't match with tyres sizes The other thing of course is buying brand new tyres to find out they don't fit is a bloody expensive way to test. The ones I tried above were ex superlap softs, used but not very much, and perfect for hillclimbs so it's a shame they have to go...

The other thing I need was trial fit the big wheels and tyres to make sure there are no problems. Long time back I bought some 18x9.5 +12 volks in a set of 6 to put on the car (oh look, still for sale in my sig! retro!). But with my alignment that offsite was not right so I bought some BC racing wheels in 18x10 + 22 from Just Jap. I've put 295/25/18 A050s on them for test fitting. So, up on the quickjack and out with the shocks and springs front and rear. Bolt the wheels on and jack up under the wheel to check the whole range of movement from full droop to fully compressed. At the rear, fit is perfect. These are big wheels and tyres and they fit great. Same at the front. At full left and full right lock the fit is perfect from full droop to fully compressed. Offset +22 is spot on a a GTR with 10" rims The only minor issue that the wheel almost misses the front bumper at straight ahead. It's kind of a shame that an almost miss is a hit. The tyres are just too tall. I'll see if the alignment shop can pull it back a bit without stuffing the settings totally, and if not I'll try again with lower tyres 295/30 or even smaller if I can find them in usable brands. Bit of a pain really.

OK, couple of updates. After more stuffing around, it was the injectors that were stopping it running. There had been some water in the lines somehow and they corroded a little sitting there 2 years. Swapped them out for some good ones (after trying a million other things) and she started up fine. So the good news is it is running and almost ready for a tune. I also did the final torquing on the driveshafts since it was on the ground, and also the balljoints once they had a chance to settle. I do need to fix 3 minor wiring things then off for a tune.

Yeah just the usual tapered type.

32 and 33 gtr have the same size hub ring, so no space is required to run 33 gtr wheels on a 32 gtr. 66mm (or maybe 66.1)

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Nothing wrong with Mantic clutches, as long as it's the right one for your needs. What power/mods do you have on the car, and what specifically is your concern with the exedy? Sprung centre clutches will always engage more smoothly, and while having fewer pucks increases their ability to hold more power they can get shuddery and jerky as a result. Also, the guys at Mantic know their stuff and do R&D locally, so give them a call if you have questions. They aren't just a website listing like a lot of brands these days....

Although it's not exactly Pike's peak, the most important track in Australia is about 850m at the top. People running MAP sensor need to be careful with their tune. But from a power point of view, we all just accept that there is less air to suck in up there and everyone makes less power. I'm not sure about the logic that you should try and fix the power output by pushing the setup harder; if it can take more at the top of the hill why can't it take more at the bottom as well? Also, there is the practical issue on that track that power is most useful to get you up the hill, not to take you across the top or even back down to an extent.

Firstly this has been moved from for sale to a more appropriate section. Second, I'm not really sure what the question is, or your intended action based on the response, but page EN-229 of the GTR workshop manual talks about the knock sensors and how they work. One thing you should be aware is they do not detect knock, just a sound that is likely to be knock

lol that should get you to the shops OK!

yeah that's why I mentioned the synchros. the bearings in these boxes are generally pretty good with only front input shaft bearing sometimes needing replacement. Once you strip it down you will probably find the bearings are OK to reuse, and expensive and hard to find if you want to do it for preventative maintenance.

In addition to GTSBoy's advice, there were running changes during the r33 gearboxes (and your late 32) so you will need to be careful as some parts are replacements and some are different. eg, I know there is some difference in the strength of the selector clips in the series 3 (last) R33 boxes. Unfortunately the best gearbox shop for skylines appears to be gone, and I haven't had to find another place since. For what it's worth, as well as bearings, you are likely to need new synchros by now, and there were also changes in those over the years. I don't know enough to give specific advice.

I can surely say your pics are a pull clutch if that helps!

Awesome choice. We've had a z24 d21 navara for about 20 years, only 2wd though. Did a full rebuild on it (engine, box, diff, bushes, suspension etc) about 5 years back for it's 400,000klm birthday and has been running faultlessly since goods news is parts are easy and cheap compared to imports. and you'll save a bit since it already seems to have usable tyres fitted, that makes a big difference to traction on rough stuff

if not Nissan you are probably out of luck. Look up the part numbers then order through amayama or similar

Sorry fatz. Thread closed as there is no sign of any on topic posts.

you didn't mention which skyline or put it in your profile which makes answering more challenging... but, in addition to the factory rocker cover gasket for your model, you should change the half moon seals that sit behind the cam at the same time. some people recommend a thin bead of silicone gasket to seal the rocker covers but I have never needed that (except on the half moon seals where the factory workshop manual says it should be used). also pay attention to the screws that hold the covers down. They have rubber bushes on each which have almost certainly perished by now and may well be the main problem (because the screws won't be holding the covers down properly). You can also buy these for a couple of dollars each, or cut 3mm lengths from garden hose for the ghetto option.

I owe fatz....

Mark....you were alive in the 70s.....

really! I'm trying that next time the opportunity comes up No doubt it will

Hope the price took into account the problem mate. If you want to replace the rings you need to at least hone the cylinder. To hone the cylinder you need the piston and rod out. To take the piston and rod out you need the head off, or may be the crank out To take the crank out you need to undo the rear main oil seal and oil pump bolts, and remove the sump To remove the rear main oil seal you need to remove the gearbox. And clutch. And flywheel. To remove the oil pump you need to remove the timing belt gear. And timing belt. And timing belt cover. And the radiator. To remove the sump....well....don't know. Probably front subframe out which means brakes off, steering shaft disconnected, ABS unplugged, top shock bolts and upper control arm bolt, power steering lines off, exhaust dump pipe off. We could do this list all day. Basically you have a repair that is going to cost a minimum 5 grand to do at a shop if they do minimal work. If at all possible you should spend about twice and rebuild the whole motor including new seals and gaskets, rings, bearings, machining, oil and water pump, head reco. You should consider boring out the block and putting in forged pistons at the same time. You have one of the best performance cars ever made, it would be a shame to have an engine that is not right.

Ha! looks like Alan is pushing hard in that pic ? Sounds like a good project. There is actually a fair bit of information on these forums and a couple of the Grp A owners have been active on here at times. One thread is here (particularly page ? but there are others : Please check further but there were something like 5 cars built for the factory and other teams like GIO. At least one of the cars spent some time in Malaysia in a different spec before coming home. Also I believe one of them was written off after the adelaide roll over but I guess you are looking for vins, not the cars' locations. The chassis used were just off the production line, nothing special as they started, so they will just have standard japanese vins. They were not all pulled at the same time so they won't be consecutive.

odd if it has been off recently....rb26 balancer bolt is 446-466nm according to factory manual and they get undone OK