Duncan

Thanks Ben, should have double checked the correct voltage before posting

No. Either the sensor is f**ked or your car is running very lean at idle. It should swing quickly between about 1 and 5v, going towards 5 when you floor it and 1 when you suddenly close the throttle. Changing the sensor is the cheap and easy way to start trouble shooting....

Great to see this car is being worked on again Not so great that the info is facebook only.... Either way, all the best!

AFAIK neither the rotors nor the calipers are a "copy" of the AP racing caliper, it's just that the pads are the same shape and thickness as the AP racing 6 spot caliper. I've replaced the rings on the stagea after about bllion klm and at least 5 years, I just got new ones from just jap.

Thanks mate

you can use the auto computer. the only real differences are that the auto computer will retard timing if it gets a gear change signal from the auto computer (which it never will again), and perhaps the tune is a little more conservative (it seems to go rich and retard the timing sooner)

you need to use the gtr rotors as well as calipers. that's what i have on my rs4. when you say "don't fit" what specifically is the issue?

lol, I did say apparently....source is unvalidated information I picked up on here sometime over the years....

@PranK can you please have a look into this Christian? I can't find anything wrong with the profile in the admin control panel, his primary usergroup is members... When he tries to post through the app he receives a message "You don't have permission to reply".

I'm not certain about rb30 hybrid, but all other RBs (except apparently rb20) are interference.

Thanks Des Please let Ahmet know he can post in this section without logging in. That member exists and has the posted email attached. We have had some trouble with the server flagging some email addresses as incvalid but I thought that was resolved a couple of weeks ago. I've also sent him an email

I've got the JJ baffles (same style) for sale in Sydney $250 if you want https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457121-lots-of-parts-volks-hankooks-other-gtr-parts/

Are you certain it's the master? slave is a more common reason for no clutch, or even a leak of some sort in the line. Just Jap may have clutch master in stock and is open sat mornings, I'm not sure who else would have stock AND be open on the weekend. Ring first, it's a long way to go and find they don't have it. A lot of the guys are at Targa Tasmania today but I'm pretty sure the shop will be open. In the meantime if you need to move the car you can (assuming the battery is healthy): 1. Put the car in gear, and then start it. It will move forward on the starter but should start running. 2. You can then drive in first gear with no issues. If you need to stop use the brake until the car stops and the engine stalls (then goto 1) 3. If necessary you can also change both up and down gears without the clutch. To change up a gear drive up to medium revs, and as you take your foot off the throttle (which unloads the gearbox) pull the shifter to neutral at the same time. That's the easy bit. Then when the revs are about right for the gear you are after pull the shifter smoothly but firmly to the next gear. as a rule of thumb it will be somewhere between 2/3 and 1/2 the revs of the gear before. 4. Changing down without the clutch is similar but maybe unnecessary to get home. Lift the throttle and shift to N at the same time, then blip the throttle. When the revs are right (higher) for the next gear down the shifter will go in. If you get either 3 or 4 wrong you hear a horrible grinding sound but it's not as bad for the gearbox as it sounds. Changing the master means removing 2x 12mm head bolts + the clutch line. You should use a 10mm "flare nut spanner" for the clutch line rather than a regular open end spanner because it can round it off. There is also a pin you have to remove that holds the clutch master's rod to the pedal under the dash. Also give the clutch line a good soaking in wd40 beforehand.

yeah those guys are going great; although I'm not certain it's in factory original tune Kel and Steve have had a couple of issue but are 5th in early modern, savman was going very well in GT4 in the suburu early on but ran into problems, and Mel and Paul also went out with engine failure in their subaru. The field has really changed a lot over the years, still lots of nissans in the field though

Its great news....looking forward to more detail

While i personally don't volunteer for a for-profit event, I don't think it's fair to assume the cats are very fat in this case. Much more likely this is a marginally profitable event when run with volunteer assistance, run by a business who's owner likes GTRs. Let's face it, if Skyline displays were super profitable everyone would be doing it, including SAU running a huge show n shine for instance. I reckon in this case the event couldn't go ahead without volunteer assistance. If/when it is successful, don't worry they will drop our assistance like a hot potato. Just look at how much we helped superlap in the first few years and how quickly they brushed us when things started going well for them I do agree display should be free at a for profit event through.

Does it behave differently when you unplug the AFM? Can you swap it for a known working one? And I don't have the wiring handy but you should have earth, 12v (ignition) and sigal wires to the ECU, so check them all with the multimeter

that second one is the pulsar cup car.....contact John Boston through the forum, he probably has millions of them from street cars that have been converted to race cars

just put proper semi slicks on and stick with a wheel/tyre that fits without major issues....proper semi slicks will be a big step up

I'm not near the car to check, but this is the service manual page for it It looks like a similar setup to my navara where the rubber stopper disintegrated a few years back leaving nothing for the switch to turn off against. Pretty sure I picked up the part at nissan for a few bucks after my dodgy fix failed again.

They are controlled by a small, adjustable switch at the brake pedal. First unplug the switch at the pedal and make sure the light goes off. Assuming it does, push the switch a few times and see if it frees up, and if not it can be adjusted a little. Otherwise it may just have failed and need replacing.

yep the easy electrical things are: battery flat with car off - charge battery with a charger and if it doesn't recover new battery battery doesn't increase when car is running - alternator or maybe wiring issue battery good but bat + to chassis is not the same - issue with neg terminal dirty/connection or main earth. still lots of things it could be including bad fuel, blocked fuel filter, dying fuel pump etc but the electrical stuff is easier to check yourself first assuming you don't have a fuel pressure gauge

runs OK with headlights off, stalls when headlights are on? I agree it sounds like some sort of voltage issue, do you have a volt gauge, consult/obd scanner or multimeter to check the battery with the car off, then on, then running? Or do you have another car with similar battery you can swap for a test?

then I can't help personally. But for posterity, 32 GTR front lower control arm length is 315mm ball joint to ball joint

front or rear? 2wd or 4wd?